rvandivort

Or maybe..just asking helps.

Thanks, Matt..as usual the DIY folks perform. Now, after ( this program is corrupted cannot proceed) the 2.890 is in the original program from B and G....as well as the the new one. Maybe I didn`t wait long enough....(several hours).. I hope so.oooeeooo!! Anyway, thanks, Roger

Hi!, I got the download..yahooo! But, The next step is eluding Me. The whole thing is about getting this file into MegaTune. I`ve tried several approaches. I didn`t have any initial success with the MS download icon so, I went with the above icon...and it worked. I see the other possibilities..but no2.890. Thanks, Roger

I`m assuming You have a daily driver. Run low boost 5-7 psi first, then go further. Why waste time doing the same thing twice? Roger

Thanks for all the info guys. Moby backdoored a successful resolution thru My normal email. I am impressed with Norton`s ruthlessness. The lack of which is the reason I had to buy a new computer half a year ago. Thanks again to you all. Roger

What do you suggest as another possibilty?

Please explain lightweight AV program. So far this program has worked. It is very aggresive at eliminating network problems. But, not now.

Hi, Anyone had this problem...and how do you solve it? Switched to Vista 6 mo`s ago..installed Norton 360. It thought Megatune was an insidious program. Thanks, Roger

I`d just go ahead and get it done. Why do the same thing twice? You have another daily driver I assume?

So, just get MS11! What an ordeal to go thru! Thanks for the additional information about grounding, etc. A mistake can illuminate. The Neils Bohr comment is very relevant. Well, the snow is almost gone. Back to work. Roger

I don`t think there will be an external heat problem, since the airflow through the engine compartment will negate any turbo heat. So, as I recall 1/2" pipe nipple(from the T3 adapter) to 3/4 heater hose to oil pan..standard hose clamps. Hope this helps! Roger

I bought a 81 let engine with 95k on it a year and a half ago. The turbo was gone, but the hacked off hose on the oil pan was still there---basically heater hose. Should be the same temperature resistance as oil. I bought the same pipe threaded t3 outlet adapter for my holset as mentioned previously. I think this is being overthought.

See Matt Cramer above!

This is rather late (11.9.08), But the brain ( megasquirt or oem ecu ) is separate from the other functions. So, the other circuits are going to work as usual. If you have looked at the wiring diagrams..or physically seen them...the brain has its own thing. Lots of ground wires (for individual sensors and other functions)..and a dedicated positive feed.

Hey!...that wasn`t hearts I was talkin about!

HI! Got the the desoldering stuff today from RS. 4 at a time (on the CPU)from the manager..for a 16 pin cpu.How stupid could I have been to not notice that there was a tray to be soldered...and then the insertion of the CPU. ♥♥♥♥ happens a lot..especially in My case! But, things work out.

Buy the cord between the relay board and the MS unit You desire..expensive--or do it Yourself. I bought the thing.

I have to say that going to the distribution/relay board is sooo much easier to do. Spend the extra $. Everything is right there.

I might add that the lead from the starter side of the the ignition switch to the oem brain had Me worried a bit......in the Chilton schematic. So this is irrelevant? HUHH!

Exactly! Was wondering why the problem was raised in the first place. I can get the feed off the resistor. Thanks, Roger

Hi, wondering about the pg 6 admonitions (in the Megasquirt manual- for wiring and sensors) to supply power in both positions. Been looking at the schematics in the Chilton manual. The interlock relay is probably key..but I come from the old school where ignition and starting are the same thing..how else can the thing start? I have a 76Z june model. I am using the MS power supply board going into a V3. I have also found that the color coding on the wires off the former fuel pump relay are not consistant with the manual....blacks are striped white and two blues go into the system---did a continuity check between one of these and the connector under the passenger seat. One was the fuel pump.Yahoo!! The other..forget it.So..What`s the deal here? We have the black/yellow coming off the starter side..and the black/blue off the ignition side going to the resistor. Which ones ...or both go to switched power on the relay board? Thanks

Just finished the board from DIY..They are fast on delivery!! The experience I have gotten from this are as follows... The LED`s and the terminal strips are the more challenging part of the soldering experience.I followed the instructions for the LED`s ...I spaced them out and then soldered one lead of each at a time. For the terminals I used rubber bands to clamp the strips. The instructions talked about the problems with assembling the singles---but this worked in that case too.Also, In lieu of solder wicking, I used a sweep and dump method..heat the thing up and dump the excess solder on My 3/4 plywood temporary bench.Thanks , Roger

No...not that bad Moby,I simply wanted to know how to do the cpu lifting if possible.I missed the solderwick thing after looking at the intro 5 times. My Bad. Saw the soldering thing. Also, the last thing I assembled was a Heathkit 21" color TV in 69`. didn`t need a wick back then...the terminals were fairly well spaced out..as well as Me!it lasted for 5 years until the Sony Triniton came.I have ordered another stim. Since doing this I have realized We are talking about different boards. I was looking for assembly instructions on the Megasquirt site and was totally mystified ...Only 5 LED`s? I have 12! Then I looked at the small piece of paper that came with the DIY stuff......it said go to (abbreviated) jbperf.com. This is the newer version that has sequential injector tests,as well as a switch that allows You to use different ignition tools. Nice installation instructions! The other problem was the terminal strips. Which end is up? I looked at the visuals presented and did the longer ones below..but they didn`t fit the jumpers. I cut off 1/8 on the jumpers and it was ok , but not good. Assuming, I did it backwords.So , to summarize, I am not going to "wick" out the cpu . To do so would probably destroy it.The guy in the soldering tutorial says use a lot of heat. The people here say no. So, a new one in on Monday and I`ll be more careful. Hell, I`ve spend more than 40 hours on the caved in roof on My Z and it`s almost done! Thanks, Roger

Thanks Guys!

I want to build the SOB and get it over with!