Preping floors for B-Quiet

[Polarity]

I am about to install some B-Quiet mat in the car, it says to make sure the floors are clean of any dirt/grime/etc. My question is what did you guys use to clean the floors before installing this stuff or carpet.

 

-polarity

[dsommer]

Laquer thinner. Acetone.

 

Try not to get "high", use in a well ventilated area.

[benitoz]

i Just started mine, I bought the e dead liquid deadner. It works great,was very easy to apply and It stick very hard and is like dry rubber but hard... then I rolled the stuff like dynomat but made by edead.. and it sticks sooo good to the stuff I dont think id do it any other way... I have done 2 cars completly with this stuff and its just not sticking as good. I have used other brands and they all stick the same. the sell liquid e-dead for 50.00 a gallon on ebay.

[Calgary280ZT]

what dsommer said. Make sure you've got all the factory tar off the floor, B-Quiet won't work over top of it. Mine went on easy and works real well.

[bjhines]

There are several types of B-quiet brand materials. I would not worry about cleaning too much for the tar-based materials. Get the dust off and remove any major spills with a mild solvent and/or soap. The B-quiet materials that have a foam layer may need more careful treatment. You might consider laquer-thinner or acetone to clean the surfaces prior to application. The more powerful solvents will also remove paint so be quick and be careful.

I would not apply anything to the floors that is not COMPLETELY sealed to the sheet-metal. I would completely remove rust and repaint the floors before applying anything at all. The foam backed material is not suitable for any location that can get wet. That means fixing that rusty, leaky cowl/wiper-box.

 

 

 

These are essentially the same treatments that Datsun-Nissan installed 35+ years ago.

 

The B-quiet tar/aluminum backed mats are exactly the same thing the factory installed on the floorboards. The problem with the original installation is that they were installed over primed but unpainted steel. They tended to trap moisture and rot the floors. Modern cars have similar treatment applied in a more sophisticated manner.

 

1. The B-quiet tar-based mats have an aluminum finishing layer. This just keeps them neat and lint free. Forget any thermal properties of the aluminum. It is at best a reflector on the inside only.

2. The factory Nissan tar mats have a primed inside surface to accept paint without dissolving to goo. the factory relied on the paint to keep the lint from collecting.

 

 

 

The multi-layer, Foam-backed B-quiet materials are essentially the same treatment the factory used on the firewall, under the dash. The loose layer allows vibrations(sound) comming from the inside surface of the firewall to be captured and damped in a soft layer of foam or fiber-matting. The hard inner-layer acts as a barrier for the sound caught in the foam. The heavier the barrier material the better. That is why the best "blimping" materials use a layer of LEAD sheet to most effectively stop noise.

 

1. The B-quiet materials use foam sheet with a heavy rubber or vinyl as a barrier. It appears that they have versions with multiple layers of foam an vinyl.

2. The factory used sisal fiber mats backed with a hard layer of tar-impregnated cardboard.

 

The key to sound control with the multi-layer materials is to completely encapsulate the area being treated. This is hard to do considering the number of brackets, wires, hoses, and convolutions that are in the way on our firewalls. This is where the factory application of these materials fell short on performance. There are far too many open holes in the hard layer to work effectively. If you want to do this right then all openings must be sealed air-tight. You can't just use duct tape, It must be a hard, dense layer of material used at the cuffs as well. Lead-tape would be ideal if you can get it.

[Challenger]

When I put down my edead mat I just vacumed and then any parts that had old remnant fuzz from the old carpet padding I took a wire brush, then vacumed and washed with soap and water. Stuck really well with the aid of a hair dryer. (it was still wintery)