Removing Half Shaft U-Joints... PLEASE HELP!

[Challenger]

 

This is what I have now.... am I doing it right? Hammer it down so the cap pops off, flip it over repeat, etc. Ive read that some needed to be pressed out while others said it came out with a hammer. Also I talked to the guys at shucks and this is kind of what I got out of them, I think...

 

Everything is obviously closed at 7pm (get them pressed out), and I have nothing else to do, should I just hammer away????

 

Id like this to be ready for tomorrow...

 

Thanks

[Challenger]

My manuals and I say that you can beat them out yourself and save the $ for the U-joints. This can be done with a ballpin hammer, and a vice or a unwanted large socket, by placing the side of the yoke over a vice opened enough to allow the u-joint bearing cap to fall out in between the vice clamps or into the large socket below. When beating(great stress relief) these out use a large drive set or another unwanted socket to direct force to the joint cap itself, making sure you dont nail the yoke or your fingers and damaging either. You'll have to drive the u-joint back through the yoke after getting one bearing cap off to get the opposite one off cause theres not enough clearance to remove the Joint yet. Once both bearing caps are off the joint should come out with not problem. repeat this about 6 times and presto, No U-joint in your halfshafts. Its a great idea to have someone hold the halfshaft while you hammer the caps. I've removed all the u-joints in about an hour in both halfshafts with no damage to the yokes if done correctly and delicately, proving that it can be done. Good luck.

 

This is another thing I found. I didnt understand what parts he was hitting what part was on the vice...

 

 

Is this it?

[LowCarbZ]

No don't hammer on the yoke. Bridge the gap on the vice with the u-joint and hammer the socket caps out on each side. I haven't done the rear shafts on my Z yet, but have done tons of halfshafts and driveshafts. Make sure any retaining clips are removed (usually on the inner portion of the joint bearing, at the "base" of the cap closest to the u-joint main body) and use a socket of the appropriate diameter to hit them out with a hammer. I've had to use heat in the past, but be CAREFUL you don't want to warp the yokes.

[Challenger]

Well the guys at shucks said these didnt have clips but after some inspection I found them and poped them off.

 

Will this work, Ive pounded on the socket like this and hasnt budged much.

 

THanks

[LowCarbZ]

I would suggest starting with a small torch to loosen things up. Like a propane torch, not too much heat. I have had to use Oxy/Acet. torches to get the caps to move before on Jeeps, even had to blast the odd one out with the flame. Please keep in mind though any heat you add will make the "ears" weaker when you strike them with the hammer. Be cautious. Let things cool down a bit.

 

Best of luck and let us know how you make out.

[Challenger]

So that is the correct way to hammer on it?

 

Thanks for the help.

[LowCarbZ]

Well yes, you want to hammer the joint down so the one cap will drop out of the "ear". Then remove the cap and hammer the opposite side back the other way to repeat the same. The hammer you're using might be a little overkill. Keeping in mind the joints could be really old. Doesn't take much for those caps to seize themselves in there.

[LowCarbZ]

Oh and if you can, get a friend to hold the shaft (hahaha) for you. When installing the new ones, be careful not to lose the needle bearings, and press them in gently with the vice first. Then tap them into place and insert the clips on the channels. Make sure the clips are seated properly, nothing worse than having to re-do all that work because of a clip popping out.

[Challenger]

Alright, will do. Yokes cooling down now... Now I just need a friend.

[LowCarbZ]

Remember to keep as much heat as possible on the caps, not the yokes.

[hughdogz]

So that is the correct way to hammer on it?

 

Thanks for the help.

 

I may be wrong, but I think tapping on the cap will only work for install. Since they are tapered, they won't go in any further to push the other side out.

 

If you tap around the cap, it will "push" the cap up. Then flip it over and do the same on the other side to get them loose. Turn it 90 degrees and tap on the axle flange to pop out the last two caps.

[LowCarbZ]

But if he removed the retaining rings on the base of the caps, how would that work?

[hughdogz]

I may be wrong, but I thought those retaining clips were to keep the caps from popping out. The caps can only go out. You can pound all day on the socket, and the cap will not go in enough to push the other side out. ...at least that the way I remember it working.

[LowCarbZ]

They can only go out because they can't go INTO the cross of the joint itself, it's impossible. The top of the cap keeps them from moving that way. There's no need to stop them from going inward. Unless these are completely different than any other u-joint on the planet I do not see how the aforementioned methods wouldn't work? U-joints typically use two types of clips. The inner "C" Type retaining clips and the outer "D" or some call "G" type retaining clips that hold the "top" of the cap in from the outer edge of the yoke.

[Challenger]

Well it obviously didnt work. I ended up not using the heat but from pounding on the cap as explained now the u joint will hardly move up and down, will go side to side still. @%#%

 

Im done for tonight, Im gonna see what it costs for a shop to do it, hopefully I didnt bend the yoke. Hopefully it just pushed the caps in and its a little tighter then normal...

[hughdogz]

Don't give up and take it to the shop! This pic is almost right, but the u-joint cannot go down, only the flange.

 

[Challenger]

Ill try it in the morning.. Funny that that was my first idea... seemed logical.

[Challenger]

Well I went out at about 10pm and made a bunch of noise... (mom came out and stopped me) But the one side came out really easily. Didnt have time to do the rest.

 

What it came down to was shucks told me there werent clips to hold them together. I even showed them the new ones and the 2 guys were sure there werent clips. Thats why it didnt work the first time I tried it..

 

Also the yoke isnt bent, it was what I thought it was. I hit the area around the cap and it "loosened" the cap back to how it was normally. Now the joint moves freely.

[LowCarbZ]

So what way worked, hitting the caps up or down?

[woldson]

Mine were a terrible b!! The second one I did, I took to a diesel place, cost me 10-15 bucks! Well worth it for me.

 

Also mind those neddle bearings, (as mentioned above) I kinda goofed one upon install. They seem like they will stay put in that grease, but don't be fooled!