Oddmanout84 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I finally removed my first set of spindle pins... am I a big boy now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Yes you are. You can now play with sharp things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 Well, I admit that this was going to be a more informative post, I just felt like being silly first. So, as I discovered in my project, spindle pins suck. They're also known as transverse link pivot bolts or whatnot in the FSM. Same thing. In fact, the whole disassembly & reassembly of the suspension is a b1tch. If you're doing this little project, you have a few options: First and foremost, if you have some sort of strange godlike powers that none of us could even hope to have, all you have to do is look at the FSM or haynes manual, and realise that all that needs to be done is this; However, most likely you're mortal like the rest of us. If you found this by searching the forums, you've likely already hammered the sh1t out of your pins already, and severely d1cked them up by turning them into mushroom heads. Or maybe not. Your "maybe not" option (if your threads are still good) is to find someone on this website that's willing to lend you a spindle pin puller. Great little tool. You could also buy one, likely on ebay. Try to soak the pins in some PB Blaster as long as possible to kill the rust, as this will increase your chances of success. You can also try heating the area with a small propane torch, which will shock the rust and break it down a bit. Do this in several heating/cooling cycles to get a good effect out of it. From there on you should be able to follow the directions given with the spindle pin puller tool and *hopefully* extract the little buggers, in a reusable condition. Your options go downhill from here... Next is what I'd call the "Real Man Method". I call it that not because its the path I went, but simply because its the most brutal, frustrating and AAAAUUGH! method. You've already destroyed your hopes and dreams of ever getting these mothers out the nice way, so now its time to remove them by force. Your pins are destroyed, you will have to buy new ones, so there's no harm in destroying them further. I used something akin to this method here; http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html, except I did not bring it to a machine shop first. Many of you are lucky enough to own a sawzall, this will make your job easier. However, if your budget doesn't include one (like me), your other option is a good old hacksaw. This will take a while. Put some angry music on your radio, you will need it to help keep you pissed off. Saw as shown inbetween the joints of the transverse link where it connects to the brake/strut/wheel bearing assy. However, do not let your rage prevent you from cutting true; in this small of a space there is little margin for error. Cut only the pin. When done, you will most likely be able to pop out the two end pieces from the transverse with a small tap. Hah! Your work has only just begun. These shots are staged, as I was too pissed off to use a camera during the actual process... Now you have to pound this sucker out of the middle. This is also a lengthy process that involves plenty of cursing, Blaster, smashed fingers and loud noises. Your weapons of choice big honkin' bolt... You will be using this as a drift. Make sure they're tough, but the expendable kind. You may need more than one... A good hammer. If you're lucky enough, blessed by Thor himself. Brace the assembly on some wood so it won't move or get damaged by your righteous pounding. Get the pin to give a bit one direction, then hit it the other way if you can. This will help unless something is seriously screwed up. After much effort (amount of effort may vary!), Victory. Take the remaining pin parts in your hand. Get your face really close, yell at them as loud as you can, assuring them of your dominance. Throw the haggard pins across the driveway, preferably into something hard. Yell again, to let the world know of your triumph. Light cigarette, drink beer. There is a third option. Begin by watching Silence of the Lambs, paying close attention to the character "Buffalo Bill". There is a scene he's in towards the end that you must study. Once you feel confident and ready, do as he does and tuck your, uh.... tail... between your legs. You can even use makeup and put on a little dance. Then bring your stuff to a machine shop and have the real men take care of it for you. Ok, light ribbing aside for those that chose this option. The real reason I didn't was because I wanted to avoid what happened to the owner of that blue Z in the posted link. Unless you really trust the guys, there's a always going to be a risk of them damaging your stuff. If you're careful with your own tools, you can mitigate this risk. Congratulations. You have defeated the enemy. Now make sure you grease and antisieze the piss out of the new ones when you reassemble. And of course, clean out the areas where they once resided. If you're installing new bushings, you now get to remove the old ones. As you can see, they're almost as fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Luckily I am so strong I was able to do it the same way. Had to replace mine also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 By the way, I ASSUME you're also reading the FSM and or Haynes manual ,like you should, and removed the lockpins FIRST. But then again, we all know what assuming does... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Having removed at least 30 spindle pins here's what I do: 1. Assume the spindle pins are junk. 2. Spray penetrant (Mopar MS3613 is the best) in all possible joints and cracks that can lead to the spindle pin. 3. Remover the wedge pin. 4. Spray penetrant in the wedge pin hole. 5. Let soak for a day. 6. Tighten one of the spindle pin nuts about 1/2 turn if possible then remove that nut. 7. Tighten the other spindle pin nuts about 1/2 turn if possible and then back that nut out until only a thread or two holds it on the pin. 8. Get your air hammer out and put a 3/8" pin tool on it. 9. Place on the end of the tool in the spindle pin the cup made by the backed out nut. 10. Hammer away. Never been defeated yet and its never taken me more the 3 minutes to remove a spindle pin once I squeeze the trigger on the air hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Save at least one old spindle pin! Cut the threaded ends off and use it to BASH out future spindle pins. And I agree with johnc's first point! I have NEVER reused one! Do you think a spindle pin made a few thou undersize would be a problem? A size ever so slightly smaller to allow easy extraction.....???? Oh ya...for a bit more than twice the price of 2 NISSAN pins ..$40....you can buy a cheap hydraulic press...and use it for other stuff like bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I believe they sell a control arm the solves the spindle pin problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 What!!! It doesnt need a big long thingy to hold it on to the strut assembly?? I believe they sell a control arm the solves the spindle pin problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 When you turn your car on...does it return the favour? I wouldn't know...That assumes the car actually turns on... I still haven't solved the problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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