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Nitrous: Possible, yes, but smart??


Hotrodpez

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So, that is my question. Through searching, I have determined that it is POSSIBLE to use Throttle in a Bottle on a turbo'd L28, and has been done a few times. What I was wondering is if it is a good idea considering the following: junkyard L28ET, with good compression, and re-done head, intercooler, about 10psi boost, and an SDS fuel and spark management system, new injectors...

 

I know it CAN be done, but how do these L motors handle it?

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I ran over 80 10lb bottles through a all JY parts L28/30 N/A stroker motor , the car ran a best of 12.55@110 . With a turbo motor and nitrous you have to be careful as the same "shot" that made 120 rwh in a N/A motor made over 200 rwh in a built turbo motor.

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Why not turn the boost up? It's easy and doesn't cost anything plus you have no hassle. But if you do 510six is right. A 25 shot of nitrous is on a forced induction motor is like running 50 on a NA motor (it doubles). Most people I've seen run nitrous on turbos is to spool them up.

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Why not turn the boost up? It's easy and doesn't cost anything plus you have no hassle. But if you do 510six is right. A 25 shot of nitrous is on a forced induction motor is like running 50 on a NA motor (it doubles). Most people I've seen run nitrous on turbos is to spool them up.

 

Far too blanket of a statement. It doesn't always double, there are other factors involved.

 

The trend though is that the size of "shot" seems to be a little larger on a forced induction engine than an N/A engine, but it's not always double.

 

Also a "50 shot" on an N/A engine may not be a 50 HP increase, it could be anywhere from 30 to 80 HP in some tests I've seen. The size of "shot" is an approximat and never exact.

 

Some factors are bottle pressure, how much fuel is added with the nitrous, timing, how hot the air is, etc.

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Far too blanket of a statement. It doesn't always double, there are other factors involved.

 

The trend though is that the size of "shot" seems to be a little larger on a forced induction engine than an N/A engine, but it's not always double.

 

Also a "50 shot" on an N/A engine may not be a 50 HP increase, it could be anywhere from 30 to 80 HP in some tests I've seen. The size of "shot" is an approximat and never exact.

 

Some factors are bottle pressure, how much fuel is added with the nitrous, timing, how hot the air is, etc.

 

I did not just pull that statement out of the air. If it wasn't proven many times then I would not have stated that but that is the rule of thumb. Yes you do have all those variables with the shot and so forth. But lets say everything is equal. You run a XX "shot" that will see 20 hp gain on an NA. You run that SAME XX shot, same air temp, humidity, bottle pressure, ect. on a FI motor and you get a 40hp increase. Now why did that show a bigger hp gain compared to that the same shot on the NA motor? You get the horsepower increase from the nitrous shot itself PLUS you greatly decrease the AIT's. I believe for every 10 degrees dropped you gain 1% horsepower (motor). So thats how you get the extra gain. So if you don't run an intercooler you will see the biggest gain compared to other FI motors because you have nothing to lower the AIT's. But from what I've read and people I talked to that are very knowledgeable about FI motors it is usually double or close to double.

 

here is my reference

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php

 

Just search "nitrous" in turbo tech and carburetor+boost forums and you'll find guys that have done this test.

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Arg.....

 

I too have seen many examples of nitrous on a forced induction engine, it is not ALWAYS double on a forced induction engine, when compared to the same amount of nitrous injected into an N/A engine.

 

That is like saying every 2 pounds of boost gains you 10 HP, it may on a particular engine, but never all. It just not that simple.

 

I've also seen some that added LESS than thier supposed shot on N/A AND forced induction engines.

 

The turboforums are notorious for having poorly gathered or falsified information, which is why I stopped go there long ago.

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Setting up a "safe" nitrous system is also more complex than most people would initially think. A full throttle switch, clutch switch, rpm window switch and a low fuel pressure switch are the minimum safety features I would use. When I first started tuning nitrous widebands were $1100 , so a narrowband in conjunction with a EGT and some datta Q software was used to tune with.

 

These days with widebands to be found for under $300 and EGT gauges for $130 or so a nitrous system could be safely setup and tuned for under a $1000 . A friend of mine used a very basic nitrous sytem on a basically stock 88 300zxt and with a 80whp shot and a set of ET streets ran mid 12`s consistently.

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Setting up a "safe" nitrous system is also more complex than most people would initially think. A full throttle switch, clutch switch, rpm window switch and a low fuel pressure switch are the minimum safety features I would use. When I first started tuning nitrous widebands were $1100 , so a narrowband in conjunction with a EGT and some datta Q software was used to tune with.

 

These days with widebands to be found for under $300 and EGT gauges for $130 or so a nitrous system could be safely setup and tuned for under a $1000 . A friend of mine used a very basic nitrous sytem on a basically stock 88 300zxt and with a 80whp shot and a set of ET streets ran mid 12`s consistently.

 

Don't forget plug reading. ;)

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It is also my understanding that how much power you can make with nitrous depends on when it hits... From a very low rpm it will tend to vastly increase your torque, but at higher rpm it will effect hp more. Hitting it down low would be more dangerous for the engine I am sure.

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