highly Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 OK. First the good news. YAY! It runs! "It" is an L28ET in a 78Z running MSnS Extra 029y4 on a V3 MS1 with relay board Stock turbo, injectors, rail, fuel pump, and longblock Injectors have 8ohm resistors installed inline EDIS ignition wired per the stickies, reads dead on in limp mode. EDIS Advance verified. Power from seperate relay. PWM Fidle Closed Loop Idle running a Passat air valve @ 50Hz Electric fan control on a relay Initial tuning stumbles now and then and the logs seem to show why. Every once in awhile I will get a tach spike on acceleration, and it always spikes to twice the actual engine RPM. I'm looking into that, but what really bothers me is what I see below. Pulsewidth and duty cycle dropping to zero for no apparent reason. I've looked at the raw logs and what you see in the graph is what's in the log. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Could you post the complete log and MSQ file? Chances are there are a couple other clues about what is going on, hidden in the log file somewhere. If you upload them, I'll have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highly Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Could you post the complete log and MSQ file? Chances are there are a couple other clues about what is going on, hidden in the log file somewhere. If you upload them, I'll have a look. Thanks Matt! Clicky Included are a log, the .msq, and a text file "hits.txt" with the time codes of when I see them in the log. LMK if the link gives you problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highly Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 I guess I should probably take a moment to mention what I have and have done so far. On the EDIS install, I made sure that SAW and PIP are shielded from end to end, including the relay board to the ECU (replaced the "brown" wire"). The VR is shielded end to end and grounded at the EDIS module. All sensors (IAT, CLT, TP, etc.) are also shielded. The EDIS has the factory Ford condensor installed. All grounding is done to a copper ground bus bar that also grounds to the engine block, firewall, and alternator. The Alternator is an internally regulated GM unit. Power for the EDIS, fans, and WBO2 are fed from a seperate power line with fuse and condensor. I have one relay for EDIS and WBO2 switched by the MS 12v output and a second external relay for the fan controlled by the MS. The MS only powers the TPS, FIAV, and injectors plus the two external relays, though initially I had everything running fine off of the 12v injector outputs. I changed it, so don't yell at me. I think that's about it. I have wondered about my TPS sensor, though. It only outputs a min of 10 and max of 170 in MS. It's a brand new 240sx sensor and is being supplied a clean 5v. It works fine, but provides less resolution. I have not seen any resets in MS that didn't involve the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 I noticed you have a very noisy battery voltage graph; it's dipping and spiking all over the place. This can cause all sorts of weirdness. Try putting a car stereo noise filter on your power supply line and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highly Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 I played around with megalogviewer running in trace mode with a 35v 20mfd polarized cap across each powered item in the system. I settled on the cap on the external relay that provides power to EDIS, run from the 12v source (relay post 30) to ground. This smoothed out the power read by MS to a .3v peak-to-peak average. I'd say that is within the switching voltage of the alternator's internal regulator. Here's a log with a short drive at the end: Clicky I do NOT know yet if this has cured the injector pulsewidth dropping to zero as it was raining this morning and I couldn't get much of a drive in. The logs show a couple of dropouts but none were while accelerating, so they may have been the result of overrun fuel cut. I will post logs soon of the result during a drive as soon as the weather clears so you know if that cured the problem or just cleaned up the voltage "spikes". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highly Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Looks like the cap cleaned up the power. I figured out what the real problem was, though. Seems that the small cig-lighter power inverter I was using to run the laptop was spewing EMI like nobody's business. With that out of the loop, everything stays quiet and the car runs muuuuuch better. I will have to find a way to resolve that as this laptop isn't that great on batteries (shoulda sprung for the Turion X2 instead of the Athlon X2!) Tomorrow I will be swapping out the EDIS coil pack for a Chrysler pack along with the Magnacor 8.5's that arrived today. Hopefully that will take care of the intermittant RPM spikes I am still seeing. Then, finally, I will get to start tuning this thing. Thanks for the help, and wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highly Posted October 28, 2008 Author Share Posted October 28, 2008 I just got my Chrysler coil pack and Magnecor wires installed. All I can say is "WOW!" I thought I had done a clean enough install that EMI wouldn't be an issue. I was wrong. Even though I had taken every precaution (nearly every wire pair is shielded, everything is grounded to a bus bar, etc.) the MS is more sensitive then you could imagine. Installing those wires completely changed the character of the car. I didn't realize how poorly it was running until 5 minutes ago as I took it for a walk around the block. Believe every word you read on this forum when it comes to EMI and the MS. Install quality wires from the very beginning unless you are looking to waste your money. Your local parts store's best "EMI Supression" wire is garbage compared to the Magnecor KV8.5 wire, so do yourself a favor and do not bother with them. For the record, I mounted my coil pack on the passenger inner fender well just behind the shock tower below where the fusible links originally sat and ordered the KV8.5 wires direct from Magnecor. I purchased two 23", two 21", and two 17" wires with 115 degree plug boots and HEI coil ends, and the total was $90.06 with $8 shipping. The wires fit perfectly in a ramshorn pattern toward the center. **If you are converting an EDIS install from the Ford pack to the Chrysler pack with the inline connector, the wiring is a piece of cake. Ignore the molded-in plug assignments on the Chrysler pack, they don't apply here. The Ford plug is wired ABC+ and the Chrysler pack is AB+C with both packs in the same orientation (coil towers up, plug facing you, read left to right). Lacking a proper Chrysler pack plug, you can use tweeter-sized female spade connectors (Dorman Conduct-tite Female Disconnects .110" #84541 fit tight after opening them with a small screwdriver a snidge)** Now time to get some tuning in before work...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 or you can hacksaw the Ford EDIS-6 coil connector into the shap of the Dodge coilpack plug. Ford Harness Plug, re-shaped to fit the Dodge/Chrysler "4-in-a-row" style coilpack connector. A little hacking and filing and it's a perfectly snug fit with all pins lining up. The connector can only go in one way so it can't be flipped over by accident either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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