imported_z32 tt Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Hey from Australia i have been approved to have a ls1/56 fitted to my zed. It will be sitting back as far as possible but im aware that people have trouble with the sump. Would a kicked out morroso sump avoid this issue?? I really dont want to mess with the cross member. any help greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 i used and most people here have used the camaro sump for my 240z if the z32 is anything like the 240 would be worried about the depth of the moroso one u suggested as the camaro is no where near as deep and hangs plenty low enough the corvette sump may be an option too but it has wings on each side which can be an issue for fitting dont forget (like i did) that u will need new dip stick and tube plus oil pick up and windage tray when u change sumps have seen the camaro sumps on ebay in aus for around $280 good luck with the install mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 There is good information on the thread below for an S30 but I don't know how that relates to the 300ZX (Z31 or Z32?). I imported an LS2 sump (pan) but they are now in Oz on the LS2 engines. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=ls1+pan Here are some photos which highlight the differences. My donor was a 2005 VZ Ute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted November 4, 2008 Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 That was a great read thanks! Its going in a z32 BTW. Just curious as to what wiring system you used?? I would like to retain the factory ls1 ecu in order to use ls1 edit. I really dont like the idea of the marine ecu's some companies use. . There is good information on the thread below for an S30 but I don't know how that relates to the 300ZX (Z31 or Z32?). I imported an LS2 sump (pan) but they are now in Oz on the LS2 engines. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=ls1+pan Here are some photos which highlight the differences. My donor was a 2005 VZ Ute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 i used std ls1 engine loom and computer Had matt from http://www.injectedholdens.com/ modify it He placed relays and fuses into loom for fuel pump fan engine and few other circuits plus identified the ignition,power ,earth ,alternator light ,voltage sensor, tacho ,speedo and reverse light switch from loom might forgot some but thats most of them Matt really knows his stuff and is easy to talk too Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filmjay Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Couldn't you use a Holley Commander 950 ECU w/ an LS1 program? Plus, if you wanted to tweak it, you can simply plug a laptop in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 There is good information on the thread below for an S30 but I don't know how that relates to the 300ZX (Z31 or Z32?). I imported an LS2 sump (pan) but they are now in Oz on the LS2 engines. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=ls1+pan Here are some photos which highlight the differences. My donor was a 2005 VZ Ute. Hey mate so i found the perfect engine and bought it! has mafless tune, cam and textralia z grip button clutch that is nearly brand new. Now i have found this pan and pickup for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ls1-ls2-L98-L76-gen3-gen4-alloy-sump_W0QQitemZ220349624089QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item220349624089&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Does anyone think i should not purchase this?? It looks like the correct sump to me. ive done a few measurements it looks like it will fit maybe with a tiny bit of shaving. please any advice greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 If I was you I would slow down a little at this point. I have a shed full of 'things' I bought on eBay which don't fit or I've decided not to use. It could be $350+ down the gurgler. I notice there is no mention of the baffle tray. I think I paid $250AUS for the whole lot from the US. If it were me I would first try to install the engine and see what actual interference issues I had. You may have to juggle between the position of the engine and sump you use. If you are in Sydney PM me. There is I guy here with a 5.0ltr Aussie V8 in a 280ZX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted January 24, 2009 Administrators Share Posted January 24, 2009 ... Now i have found this pan and pickup for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ls1-ls2-L98-L76-gen3-gen4-alloy-sump_W0QQitemZ220349624089QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item220349624089&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Does anyone think i should not purchase this?? It looks like the correct sump to me. ive done a few measurements it looks like it will fit maybe with a tiny bit of shaving. please any advice greatly appreciated. You mentioned in your first post wanting to set the engine as far rearward as possible. Are you willing to cut the firewall to achieve that? If so, then a rear sump pan such as the F-bod, Ute, or Vette will clear the rack & pinion. If you are not willing to cut the firewall, then hold tight for abit. I am currently installing an LSx in my Z32 and I am not so willing to cut my firewall. I hoping to perform a less envasive installation. The front sump GTO pan may be the ticket with a modified cross member. still in the measuring/mock up phase to determine which will fit with the least hassle. This link has many more details including pics of the engine sitting in the engine bay. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025 Keep us posted on your conversion. Regards, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 The firewall will be getting cut up and moved back significantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 If you are willing to go that route I have a build thread that my be of help. Just click the link in my sig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 If you are willing to go that route I have a build thread that my be of help. Just click the link in my sig. Yeah you thread is awesome i love the turbo setup!! hopefully one day i can weld one up myself with ALOT of practice i guess lol. I picked up a brand new TR 6060 gearbox with remote shifter linkage. I am just cleaning up the engine as it is very dirty. I am going to make a big order from GM parts direct as there prices seem good?? any other places to sugest? heres the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 6, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 6, 2009 Salivating.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Salivating.... Cheers mate. So i got a whole ls2 sump kit (supposed to have better baffling ecetera??) ive put the whole kit on but nothing is torque up yet as im pretty sure it will need to come of and be modified for sure. will post up some pics tonight. BTW took a quick look at the piston walls and general engine internals looks very tidy and am quite impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 So i lowered it in today sorry thats theres not pics couldnt find the battery for the camera Because my zed is right hand drive it looks like I will definately have to move the clutch master cylinder. The sump will have to be cut significantly to fit in basically totally rebuild the sump. Someone really needs to develop a pan for this swap!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biohzrd Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 a custom pan would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 PICTURES!! engine still needs to be dropped 150mm and alot further back. opinions anyone? My dad amazed by the amount of room!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 27, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 27, 2009 Looking good, love the pan! That Vette LS2 oil pan looks like it will fit nicely once you get the engine back 75-100 mm (3-4 inches). Are you "sure" you want to drop the engine 150mm, (5 7/8”) from that position? 2 things I see that will cause severe headaches with such a drastic drop. 1) To get the engine down 150mm, (5 7/8”) you will have to lower the rack, 63.5mm (2 1/2") so the rack will clear the spinning crank! I’m sure you noticed while swapping your pan, the windage tray hangs down below the pan rail of the block exactly 38mm, (1 ½”). With your engine sitting like it is now on the 127mm deep sump, (5”), there is only 89mm (3 ½”) clearance between the rack and windage tray/spinning crankshaft as your engine sits in the pics above. Just forward of the sump you may have to modify the pan to within a smidge of the windage tray to clear the rack, which only gain you a best case drop of only 86mm (3 3/8") with the pan resting on the rack. You'll still have to lower the rack 63.5mm (2 1/2") to get the 150mm drop from the above pics. 2) With that 150mm drop, the sump of your oil pan will be hanging approx 50mm (2”) closer to the ground than the stock VG30DE oil pan, (VG30DE oil pan is flush/plumb with the bottom of the cross-member, which is only 76mm (3") lower than you sump sits in the pics above!). With your pan 150mm, (5 7/8”) lower than in the above pics, you will chance dragging the sump on the ground over small bumps etc, and if the car is lowered? I’m looking at dropping my rack/cross-member between 19-25mm, (3/4”-1”). I need to plot out what affect that will have on suspension geometry, I’m sure it wont be desirable. LS2 oil pan dimensions; Courtesy of LS1Tech.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 hehehe well when you put it like that maybe not then lol. I will put it like this, i will try and get the engine sitting as far back and as low as possible without touching the suspension geometry ie lowering the rack because ideally i want it to be a street registered track car. So i will be getting the pan modified, cutting and shutting the front part of the pan so it run really close to the windage tray and possibly extending the bottom section for a tad more capacity. i will post pics up when ive done it. should have this sitting in there soon!!!! btw if had to move the clutch master cylinder so will be looking into floor mounted pedal boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 28, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 28, 2009 Being as you are cutting the firewall and trans tunnel to move the engine back, you now have all sorts of freedom and shouldn’t have to lower the rack to get the engine in the car under the stock hood. By moving the engine back, hood clearance wont be an issue either. Win win… As for your pan, in cutting your firewall and tran tunnel to move the engine back 75-100 mm (3-4 inches), the sump itself will sit behind the rack, so even if you do modify the shallow section of the pan to gain a little more pan-to-rack clearance, you wont have to modify the sump. Remember, the sump is where the oil is stored, not the shallow region of the pan, so if you modify the shallow section but don’t modify the “sumpâ€, then there is no need to add capacity as you didn’t loose any to begin with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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