zx28 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 No kidding! Air chisels come in real handy for that job. Thanks guys i appreciate the advice. I have ordered the kit and manual and they should be here by the end of the week hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Devil Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 The JTR conversion book is primarily for folks looking to do an engine swap on an enjoyable daily driver at a very reasonable price. Their products are excellent. Don't bother trying to fabricate. They give you ways to save money initially by modifying stock parts. Don't ignore having an overdrive automatic or five speed as I did or you will have a gas guzzler. The book is a great place to start, but, if you are going racing, move on up to the good stuff at Arizona Z Car or Techno Toy Tuning and don't buy parts twice as I did. The last edition I bought did not mention the newer products such as five lug conversions or Q45/TT CV Joint conversions. I recommend the Sanderson coated headers but wish I could find some equal length that would fit. Try S&S Headers for equal length tubes.. They make some especially for the Z cars.. http://www.ssheaders.com/muscle.htm look for DATSUN 240-260Z SB w/Front R&P 1 3/4" Sm.Blk./St. or Angle Plug 5205 It costs extra but if you are planning on keeping them for a while it is worth while to get them jet coated. They are the best for the money, that I know of at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Try S&S Headers for equal length tubes.. They make some especially for the Z cars.. http://www.ssheaders.com/muscle.htmlook for DATSUN 240-260Z SB w/Front R&P 1 3/4" Sm.Blk./St. or Angle Plug 5205 It costs extra but if you are planning on keeping them for a while it is worth while to get them jet coated. They are the best for the money, that I know of at least. My old Scarab position was more tolerant for different headers. The oil pan/crossmember is as low as 2 inches from the ground depending on tires and suspension setup. Will this header clear the steering shaft and frame with the engine in the offset/set back position/lowered position of the JTR conversion? How about ground clearance for the collectors? Is this the same header as the Motorsports folks sell with their kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Devil Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 My old Scarab position was more tolerant for different headers. The oil pan/crossmember is as low as 2 inches from the ground depending on tires and suspension setup. Will this header clear the steering shaft and frame with the engine in the offset/set back position/lowered position of the JTR conversion? How about ground clearance for the collectors? Is this the same header as the Motorsports folks sell with their kit? As you have noticed it is a tight fit with the JTR conversion and full length headers.. If I recall correctly, they make metion of the fitting challenges. Anyway the Driver side Header had to be dimpled for the steering shaft to clear. The frame clearance is okay, although the control arm end is touching. Ground clearance for the collector sits about 1 inch below the frame rail. The header tubes drop about a half inch or so below that before raising back up at the collector location just past the firewall. Having had the Scarab conversion on another vehicle it was using the Hooker Super Comp full lenghth headers. I still have those headers in the garage. On the driver side, the first tube is removable.. maybe to fit around the steering shaft. They hang lower (too low) and will not fit in the JTR engine location as best I can recall. So on that vehicle after JTR setup I'm using the Hooker Super Comp block hugger headers. There is no clearance issue with them although they are shorty headers not full length. Those are small and close to the engine and the tubes collect in center and go straight down, but not far. You just have to make a 90 degree turn toward the back with the exhaust after the header. A buddy told me that the (short length) block hugger headers are fine until you are pushing 350+ HP, then you may be able to gain benifit from full length headers. I don't have any experience with the MSA v8 headers.. always kinda wondered about those also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 The MSA headers are S&S units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Piece of cake! The tried and true Milwaukee SawZall and a couple long metal blades, and it was out in 7 minutes tops. I have pics of the tunnel in my gallery on this site. Greg Also used the JTR kit but did not use the lowering plates and the Sanderson headers fit perfectly without having to notch the corner of the motor mount. l No kidding! Air chisels come in real handy for that job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 The MSA headers are S&S units. OK, I called MSA and they would not tell me they would fit the JTR conversion. They probably know but.......... I guess I will stay with the Sandersons. I don't think it will make any difference when I drop a Edelbrock supercharger on the engine anyway. I have got blockable two side pipes with 2 1/2 inch mufflers and a Y'd 3 inch to a turbo for everyday use. Sounds wicked with everything open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearseman Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I'm trying to do a low budget V8 swap and I could use some help. First of all I was wondering if anyone had a JTR book that they are done with and could sell me a little cheaper. I plan on using there kit to mount a built 283 and power-glide in my 74 generation one 260Z. I have a bet with my friend that I couldn't build the car for under $2,000.00 and I plan on winning. I got the car for $500 in running condition with a mostly stock 260Z motor other the a header. I just bought the motor for $200.00 and the two speed power-glide with a new B&M shift kit, stall converter, chrome pan and fexplate cover for $100.00. With the JTR kit and a radiator I should come in under $1,500.00 This being said I will also have a complete 74 260 motor and 4 speed for sale soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Lots of Luck! I started with a used rusted but running $500 homemade Scarab style conversion and am now pushing $30K. You need to read the JTR book cover to cover before you start this project. For instance, you must get an electric fuel pump with the JTR Kit ($50 to $200). I paid $275 for custom balanced drive shaft with 1310's at each end. Your r180 won't take a lot of abuse and its getting harder to find good R200's in a junk yard. Its the little stuff like hoses and hardware that will eat your budget alive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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