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gvincent

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gvincent last won the day on March 9 2013

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About gvincent

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    Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norton, MA
  • Interests
    Z cars, working on Z cars, driving Z cars fast. Building things. Watching football, Coaching football, Talking football with family and friends..

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  1. Thank you, I will stop by the shop in the morning and give them this info and see what we have from there, I'll let you know the results and take more pictures.
  2. Happy New year, Finally got a chance to get to the shop and try a few things. we tried a remote start and put a 12v source to the positive coil because we were not reading 12V at the coil while cranking but we do have 12V with ignition on. Now we seem to be going backwards as now we no longer have the 0-5V pulse on the yellow wire on the ignitor or the blue wire as I mentioned in my post above. we looked on the passenger side and yes there is a "black box ignition/transistor"thing that another forum suggests that I check. Now wasn't this box for the 280Z? Is it still needed with the 83 280ZXT? Could it be causing problems with the 83 turbo ECU? I don't know if that Ignition box could be getting any info as the 280Z distributor/motor etc is no longer there. getting frustrated and being an ole geezer I don't have any hair to pull out. Don't know what to try next until I found out what to do with the old 280Z ignition box we have double checked the wire connections per the Info above, but like I mentioned I have a Yellow wire, a Blue wire, a Black wire, a Black/White wire and a White/Black wire in the harness going through the firewall. I do not have a Yellow/White wire that is on the wiring info given to me in the Post above by 1970 240Z Any info about the ignition box or other suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Greg
  3. Hi, Thank you for your responses, I am headed to the shop to try a few other things today. Yes the black/white wire is connected to the ignitor spade connector and I have a yellow wire connected to the other spade connector. there is a B/W wire from the ignitor going to the + coil terminal. There is a blue wire on the coil - terminal Ignition in on position 12 volts present at + coil terminal Cranking using an analog volt meter on 0-5V scale the yellow wire is receiving a signal, jumps from 0 to 5V Some people say it should be a yellow/white wire but all I have in that harness is yellow. Cranking using an analog volt meter on 0-5V scale the Blue wire is ALSO receiving a signal, jumps from 0 to 5V is this normal? Now I noticed with a spark indicator light on the output of the coil that there was a single spark every time i turned the ignition on and again when I turned it off Second thing i noticed that while cranking there was no voltage on the positive terminal of the coil?????? Bad Ignition switch? Going to try a jumper wire from the battery to the ignitor and to a remote starter switch with ignition in the ON position today to bypass the ignition switch. Going to search for this black box somebody mentioned that is under the dash on the passenger side, but if it was for the stock 280Z it was probably removed because that motor, harness etc. went into a 240Z that is running. I don't know what else to check, green light visible on ECU, yes. Now I had this thing somewhat running 4 years ago, badly but at least would start and run if I just feathered the gas, figured it was a fuel problem. took it apart, installed an intercooler custom fuel rail new injectors and new connectors, new fuel pump, hoses and a gauge and put it all back together and now no spark. I'll post back what I find Thanks again Greg
  4. Thanks, but Distributor has not been removed, Still don't know what to do, Nobody can verify my wires or why I have signal/voltage swing on both the yellow and the blue wire. I'll keep searching to see if I can find something, running out of google search topics though.
  5. I am at a lost trying to figure why I can't get any spark on my turbo swap project. I am putting an 83 turbo motor in my 78 280Z. I have ruled out the distributor as I am getting both high and low signal to the ECU computer, I can hear the injectors clicking while cranking, I have correct fuel pressure. I have changed out the coil and even tried the GM HEI module swap in place of the ignitor transistor. I have the Black/White wire with 12V connected to the coil+, the blue wire from the ignitor to the coil- terminal. I have a yellow wire, not a yellow/white wire which most people say i should have connected to the ignitor. this wire is in the same 78 280Z harness coming from the 8 pin connector at the 83 turbo ECU, I checked it with an analog meter on low scale and you can see it swing from 0-5volts, now the blue wire in that harness also is reading the same is this correct? There is a white/black wire which I don't know what it is for. the ignitor is grounded with a black wire. Now i had this engine running 4 years ago although not very well I think it was low spark from the old coil. All the wires come from the 78 harness that goes to the 8 pin connector with was wired to the 83 ECU 8 pin connector. I haven't hooked up the blue tach wire as I was told I need a resistor but couldn't find a value anywhere yet. I'm lost trying to figure what to check next. Anybody have a spare 83 Turbo ECU I can borrow
  6. well don't have the money to go with a different ECU. I think either mount it through Radiator support in front of radiator ,intercooler, condenser or cut fender well and fab a shelf maybe. I know there are pictures around but the search is not working keep getting server error message.
  7. Started to put together my long stalled turbo swap in the 78 280Z and need some advice and pictures on where did you mount your AFM. I am keeping the AC and have an Intercooler so that doesn't leave much real estate for the Big AFM
  8. My gallery is gone, I just looked at all 62 listed and Mine is not there. I noticed that some old timers albums now say zero images? granted it probably been a few years since I added pictures but now it is gone. was this when we had to change systems?
  9. Exact same thing is happening to me, did you figure out the problem?
  10. I guess this is not an easy answer as nobody has even responded yet
  11. How do i send a donation in another members name?
  12. Looking for 8mm wheel spacers for the front of my 280Z, Don't want cheap slotted lug nut holes want the correct 4x114.3/4x4.5 holes. I will take 6mm, 7mm, 9mm but prefer 8mm. 10mm might get me some fender rubbing but will do as a last resort. Looked online and almost anything that had the right hole spacing was for the Nissan 66.1 bore, the Datsun was a 73mm bore. OH need longer studs also Please PM me or email me Thanks, Greg
  13. I made a tool to measure the break-away torque using the old R-200 diff stub axles a piece of Uni-strut and a large nut welded to the uni-strut. I elongated the holes in the Uni-strut to bolt up the stub axles. Actually the hole spacing works out so I can test again later at the wheel studs later once it is all installed. The test of just the CLSD assembly as shown in the pictures was 62Lbs. I then used my torque wrench and started at 25Lbs and increased it in 5 pound increments until I reached the point where it turned the axle then backed off a pound at a time to the point where it no longer turned the axle.
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