dsommer Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 Well I got the Z off the jack stand this PM for a drive around the block. I had to cut the exhaust so I'm running straight hedder with about 36" of open pipe LOUD by my standards (and the neighbors too ugly looks) The R200 swap went well BUT I've got a whine from the rear end. It may be the old 280 drive shaft I'm using (bad j-joints???) or drive shaft out of phase? I'm not too worried about it at this point seeing how the car is about to lose the inline 6 and let the V-8 transpalant begin . What do ya'll think??? Also on a side note, when installing an aftermarket fuel pump be sure to isolate from the chassis with some rubber or other means, mine sounds like a machine gun going off behind me (I mounted it solid). Totally unbearable/unacceptable espically after installing over a hundred dollars worth of sound deadening in the rear (brown bread). I did quiet things down a bit though. Man I cant wait to hear the rumble of a V-8 under the hood, now if I could just make up my mind between the JTR mounts or the MSA ones David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 JTR mounts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 Which pump you using? I use a Carter and its a toss up which is louder in my V8z the Taurus fan or the fuel pump. The Carter sorta makes a moaning sound. JTR is cheaper, MSA has a better tranny mount I'm told and I guess its almost set back as far but not as low? Thats speculation I havn't seen the MSA one. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 I used a carter fuel pump also and it's not bothersome. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted May 22, 2002 Author Share Posted May 22, 2002 The fuel pump is an AG (?) unit I got off e-bay brand new for like $20-25 bucks. The noise will be cut down once I rubber isolate it (tonight). The toss up on the mounting kit is due to the angle plug headders bumping the steering shaft AND the HEI unit. The way I figure with the HEI you have to move the engine a bit forward, with that comes the clearance problem of the headder and the steering shaft. MSA kit seems that it sits a bit higher giving more clearance to the steering shaft/ headder issue BUT will a 400hp engine not start to tear the tranny tunnel over time? Jury STILL OUT.... David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 I think if I were to MAKE the JTR rear crossmember, I'd make it another 4-6" longer on each side, and I'd stradle the frame rails on each side sort of like the MSA rear sway bar mount does. That would also require more spacers to get the rear of the tranny up, but it would tie the crossmember more solidly to the frame rails/floor pan and be better than drill through the floor pan only with plates inside to keep from pulling through. There's alot of weight on that rear member due to the cantelever set-back plate design. I think on either kit, the HEI is still going to interfere with the hood latch. I didn't know the angle plug head would caust more steering column clearance issues, I guess it would depend on the header used. A extra u-joint in the steering shaft would fix that though. My opinion, good luck with it, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 MOST ALL 3.90 rears I have tried whine in a certain range, which usually works out to be about 55 or so with a 5 speed. I have one that is supposed to be new in my car right now that is fairly quiet, but I have heard some really bad ones before. Most often than not, a set of 3.56 's will be quieter. At least that is what I ave found. Hey what kind of taurus fan are you running? I heard the one off the v-8 model was sweet, but did not see how to make it work. I have a big 16 inch imperial I got at advance, and it works pretty well. It just barely fit on the stock zx radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 Lone, I built the JTR mount as described (I'd do something much different if I did this again). I added 1/4" steel plate to the floor between the tunnel and my subframe connectors, with 1/8"x1" barstock infront and behind that (1" in the vertical direction) connecting the subframe connector and the tunnel. So it's like a 5 sided box with a vert beefy bottom. I match-drilled holes in the floor-1/4"-plate to match the four holes in each end of the JTR mount, and used snug fitting bolts to tie the mount to the 1/4" plate. So now the JTR mount is part of the structure of the car, tieing the (sub)frame rails together. Look at the bottom right photo HERE to see what I'm talkin about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted May 23, 2002 Share Posted May 23, 2002 I know this is going to sound stupid.. but be sure there is fluid in it. I pulled mine from a JY and they drain it. I took mine around the block before I checked it and noticed some noise. No noise after I filled it... Just food for thought. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted May 23, 2002 Author Share Posted May 23, 2002 How much fluid does an R-200 hold? I put in a quart of synthetic (sp?) rear end gear lube. But first I removed the rear cover and hosed out the inners with a few cans of brake cleaner (I love that stuff ) I inspected the gear teeth and cogs (spider gears) and they looked a helluva lot better than Bubba's mother inlaws . I can live with the whine for a little bit, like until it grenades on me . The new improved rubber isolated fuel pump idea didn’t work man that thing is shaking harder than a politicians hand at election time. I guess I need either a new fuel pump or a better bracket design. I backspaced it from the original location by about 2 1/2" with some stout pipe (small diameter). I had to do this because the moustache bar was in the way after the R-200 swap. It looked like a pretty good little fab job to me any way its solid, clears the moustache bar and the line route correctly. This evening I drained and removed the radiator and stared disconnecting wires etc. from the inliner, won’t be long now and I’ll have er outta there. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted May 23, 2002 Share Posted May 23, 2002 dsommer:The new improved rubber isolated fuel pump idea didn’t work man that thing is shaking harder than a politicians hand at election time. How did you isolate it? I used very high grade rubber (bridges sit on this stuff;^) ~1/2" thick and wrapped it fully around my fuel pump and then used two oversize stainless/hose clamps to fasten it to my OEM bracket. Quiet as can be. I've had loud pumps before and heard them in other rides and they drive me nuts. After this new exhaust it may actually be back to 'sleeper' status. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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