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Camber Plates. Again....


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I have been using my plates in the front for caster/camber (pic 1)and have been really happy with the front of the car. I also have adjustable lca's and heims throughout. Koni Special D inserts. sectioned tube 225lb springs. MSA sway bar.

 

On the rear of the car I need some more work. It lays down more than I want.

Currently on Tokico blues:icon13: sectioned tubes, 250lb springs, polly bushings MSA Bar.

So I scored another set of Koni D's.:icon14: And I am going to heim the outer end of the LCA's with 3/4"-5/8"hole heims. .

I have the adjustable inner kit with aluminum and derlin. Should I use them too?

Also I was able to score another set of Carrera plates like my fronts. (pic2).

My question is. Should I use them? And in what direction will they benefit me most for my setup?

If you look at them ( pic 3) installed in the conventional way for camber. They will allow NO Negitive camber adjustment over stock. But they can add + camber.

They could be installed so they work in a diagnal setting like my fronts??? (pic 4)

 

Input GREATLY APRECIATED

 

tc

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You DO NOT want them installed at an angle. Any change in the location of the strut top fore/aft is going to put a bind on the rear control arms. The only way to alleviate that bind is to switch to an A arm/toe link configuration instead of the stock H arm.

 

Even with the A arm/toe link you'd have to be sure that you didn't max out the rod ends. If you feel that you'll need increased negative camber (which will probably be true if you're not running bias ply slicks) then I would suggest using a different camber plate that is capable of giving the adjustment you need.

 

A-arm/toe link discussion:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129154

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Thanks for the help Jim.

Your correct. I am running Radial street tires. I am really not sure I need any more - camber.

I could drill new holes and mount them so they give me + and - adjustments. Does that sound OK?

What about the inner camber kit? Any need for it if I go heims on the outers?

Also I have a new pair of 300lb springs. Thinking of installing them too.?

The rear of the car just lays down a bit. Especially under boost!

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If this is for a street car, then you probably won't need more negative camber. In fact, you might want to take some out on a lowered street car. If you can mount them so that you can get adjustments both ways, that would be nice.

 

I would use the inner camber kit and set toe with it. If nothing else it moves a lot more freely than polyurethane, so it would still be worth doing.

 

As to the springs you're on your own there. I would suggest that the Tokicos might not handle the 300 in/lb spring rate. You might try Bilsteins or the Tokico HTS shocks that Coffey sells. I think the HTS shocks would probably be easier to make work with the camber plates. You might ask John what size the threaded end of the shock is on the HTS. If they're 12mm, then you can use mag lug nuts. If they're 14mm, then you'll have to have some spacers made to fit the monoball to the strut shaft like you would with the Bilsteins.

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Doohhhhh! My apologeeZ Jon. :redface:

 

I have the Koni's for the rear too. Just havn't installed them. Waiting for put it all together. I like the front Koni's I have. Hope these are as good.

 

I think you may be correct on the camber. I will probably mount them in the conventional way and pull a bit of camber out.

Say I did. When I go to the alignment shop. Should I have it adjusted so that I can add - camber with the plates and leave the lower settings alone?. After adjustments of course.

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I have the Koni's for the rear too. Just havn't installed them. Waiting for put it all together. I like the front Koni's I have. Hope these are as good.

Right. Sorry, forgot you mentioned the Konis before.

 

Should I have it adjusted so that I can add - camber with the plates and leave the lower settings alone?. After adjustments of course.

I would adjust the toe on the bottom and try to get the camber where you want it and have the plates even on top. This was not hard to do with my old setup which had both plates and camber bushings. Adjustments after that should be made on the plates, because anything you do on the bottom is going to screw with the toe and the camber. The wrong toe setting will wear the tires off the car really quickly in addition to really affecting handling. For street I like some toe in. 1/8" to 3/16" total. Some prefer less, but that's my recommendation.

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