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Diff Strap


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Here's the finished diff strap. Thanks ScottieGNZ and Pete for sharing their info to help me come-up with this.

 

It's stupid simple. I just used longer diff to mount bolts and added rubber bushings that compress when the strap is tighted. The preload can be adjusted by adding washers/spacers to the appropriate places to lighten or tighten.

 

Anyway, the result is a rubber dampened diff with limited upward travel. (maybe slightly longer bolts. I used 4.5", the 5" bolt threads weren't long enough but I guess you could extend them).

 

Anyway, here are pics (thanks to R0N for the shots).

 

Diff strap

 

Jon

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Cool Jon.

Nice simple design. Looks easy to fab too. Can't wait to hear how it performs. My only concern would be about bending from heavy launchs. Looks like 1/8" stock? You should have better clearance to the e-brake cable than the Tyler design since you don't have the thickness of the Chevy tranny mount above it.

 

Go out and abuse it a couple a dozen times. Then whip on over here and let me look at it. 2thumbs.gif

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Guest Anonymous

It's 3/16" stock... but it should hold up just fine.

 

See the bolt under the front of the diff in the front view? That was/is the old strap, 1.5 x 2 x's 16 gauge that wrapped around the mount replacing the 3/16" cable that JTR recommends. It worked great, so this can only be better.

 

I'll beat it and bring it by.

 

Jon

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Guest Anonymous

Dan, it's 3/16" stock... but it should hold up just fine. You could make it outta 1/4" but I think that would be over kill.

 

See the bolt under the front of the diff in the front view? That was/is the old strap, 1.5 x 2 x's 16 gauge that wrapped around the mount replacing the 3/16" cable that JTR recommends. It worked great, so this can only be better.

 

I'll beat it and bring it by.

 

Jon

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Guest QIK 71Z

I've seen several posts about different ideas on rear diff mounts. I have been using a solid front mount with urethane rear bushings for about 2 years without any problems after 40+ quarter mile passes. My car doesn't leave super-hard (best 60' is 1.61), but I wonder if there are any potential problems when using this setup that I may be unaware of. I drive the car on the street as often as possible and the only thing I don't like is the increased noise that the mount transmits into the interior. Am I missing something? I inspect the car thoroughly before and after every trip to the track.

 

Thanks, MBarber bonk.gif

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Guest Anonymous

The only thing "bad" I've heard about a solid mount is the differential "whine" resonates throughout the car. If your inspection shows nothing bad going on, ie: cracks and such, I'd say go with it.

 

To each his own. 2thumbs.gif

 

Jon

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Guest Anonymous

Pete and Dan, my only concern is with the threads filing away at the top of the mount. It's pretty tight (the bushings are really hard rubber that are compressed to about half their height) so I don't think it's going to move very much.

 

What do you guys think?

 

Jon

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I like it.

 

I run a solid mount.. the only problem is when it was last removed to install the lsd.. we found that the mount was one run away from breaking...a grade 8.8 bolt.. ready to bust..hmmm maybe I drive the car too hard...hehe 2thumbs.gif

 

I to hate the "whine" from the diff. Now that the car is put back together with full interior..it really stands out now...I don't like it at all.. I'm going to have to do something else..I like your idea tho..

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Guest Anonymous

Jared, I believe Dan's rear fenders are from John Washington (Vello Rossa now called Reaction Research??) and are the "Subtle Z" fenders. Since your fender is fiberglass you should be able to repair it like new. I may be wrong on this but I follow his progrees fairly close since Dan does amazing work with only a red handled crescent wrench to work with.

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Hmm...that's a pretty good idea...when are you setting up the jig and taking orders? ;)

 

I've wondered, though, is it possible to isolate the solid diff mounts with a layer of rubber? I'm about to buy one...not sure what's going to be worse, the constant banging of my diff hitting the underbody, or the diff noise...at least with the diff noise I don't have to worry about breaking too much other stuff...

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Hey Jared, the fronts are SubtleZ and the rears are 280YZ. Both from Kit Car Z, formerly Reaction Reaserch, aka John Washington.

 

And Tee Zee, FYI, I have THREE cresent wrenches: the small one you saw, a bigger one for bigger nuts, and an even bigger one for you, you nut!

twak.gif J.K.

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rats those are different fenders then I guess I didnt look hard enough I mine are from jim cook racing with the mock side vents I want to buy the left side only but dont know if thats do able. The wheel decided to come off and mess it up pretty nicely and I am afraid of an extensive fiberglass repair not holding up. That and the backside is filled in with foam...Grrrr. Thanks

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Guest Anonymous

You can probably buy just one of the flairs. I have a set of the JCR fenders and they are quality units but I do not want to sell them since I want to mold them into my Origin convertible rear panel. You can take out the foam and reinforce the damaged area stronger than the original. The easiest way is to take off the entire fender to do the repair from the inside out.You can temorarily shape the outside contour with wide masking or duct tape with the remaining fiberglass pieces to lay the fiberglass cloth on from the inside. Getting the fender off will be tough but if you replace it ...off it comes anyway.You can probably surgically remove the fender from the body with a hand held small disc grinder with a thin 3 inch cutting disc for precision cuts..

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Guest Anonymous

That looks great, wonder why Nissan didn't do it that way in the first place. If I take the rearend out for any reason I will fab that up but for now the chain with a bolt through it has been working great.

Yeah, everything I do is Jerry rigged cuz that is my name :D

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Originally posted by awd92gsx:

Hmm...that's a pretty good idea...when are you setting up the jig and taking orders? ;)

Bill, I think Jon is selling it for $35 + shipping which is cheap considering the strap from the dealer is $50+
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