Guest Anonymous Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Are there any tips/tricks someone would like to share in removing u-joint halfshafts? I always end up rounding over the nuts during removal and it takes me way too much time to remove just one bolt. If there are any tips to removing the halfshafts without damaging the nuts and/or speeding the process up a bit, I'm all ears. Dave '72 240Z 3.0L Rebello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660Z Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 my only exp.has been with the wheel side but ive found it works best with a 14mm and 9/16 wrenches..use the box end of the 9/16 on the ujoint side and the open end of the 14mm on the wheel side and squeeze with one hand or try to keep as close together as possable. if two tight interlock the 9/16 with another wrench.hope this makes sense and good luck. ...mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Thanks for the advice. I'm sure part of my problem is that the box end of my 14mm combination wrench doesn't fit and the open end section is beat up. It's a Craftsmen though, so I can always exchange it. I forgot to ask earlier. What about bolt repalcements? Do people use any alternatives to the Nissan stock parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 The OE bolts are made for that application. The only real upgrade would be NAS or AN (cheaper than NAS) bolts. NAS bolts are made for shear applications like this. I'd stay away from regular grade 8 bolts - they don't have the correct diameter shank and you want a snug fit. OE or AN or NAS. That's what I'd use. I have OE in this application for the CV's, adapter, etc. NAS on the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Quick update: Mission accomplished. I ended up purchasing a flare 14mm wrench which really helped. None of my other box wrenches (all Craftsmen) would fit on either the bolt or the nut, and a standard open-end wrench just couldn't offer the torque required to break the nut loose without slipping. The flared wrench completely solves this problem as it allows the wrench to grab on all 6 sides, yet fits where the box wrench doesn't. Previously I had struggled for almost 2 hours on the passenger side but with the flared 14mm wrench in hand, I had the drivers side off in just 20min. For anyone else attempting this potentially painful process, get a flared wrench it will make your life so much easier. Dave '72 240Z 3.0L Rebello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Here is the trick I use: I have several 9/16" wrenches so I took two of them and ground the wall of the box side down just enough to fit over the bolt on one side and the nut on the other. I put the wrenches on so that the angle of the wrenches cause them to cross over (I know it is hard to picture what I am talking about) then I use a large screw driver as a pry bar between the wrenches to break the bolt loose, doing this I can pull all four bolts out in under 5 minutes. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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