Guest Anonymous Posted May 24, 2002 Share Posted May 24, 2002 Tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted May 24, 2002 Share Posted May 24, 2002 I'll be there, Thanks Buddy!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted May 25, 2002 Share Posted May 25, 2002 Check out one's Jon just made. Simular to ScottGNZ but this one allows the diff to have a little play. I wish I had that on today. I was testing my car out and the last run I did slammed the drive shaft really hard. Now my E-Brake doesnt work more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 26, 2002 Share Posted May 26, 2002 Just to let you know, Jon, that I think you have done a nice job on those. I bet they work really well. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Hey pparaska Is there some one out there willing to build me a Ron Tyler over the top Diff Mount? Need one for my conversion in process, but do not do welding. Car is 74 260Z. Putting in 95 Lt-1. Thanks, Jay http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sea_urchine/lst?.dir=/250+GTO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 HEY JAY If we can get a drawing I can make some. I work in a sheetmetal shop. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Originally posted by MikeS:HEY JAY If we can get a drawing I can make some. I work in a sheetmetal shop. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/diffmount.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 . pete wrote- "The ground clearance issue is if you run dual exhaust or a 3" pip with the front diff crossmember, you have to run it low under that crossmember. If you removed the center, you could raise the exhuast" Ive been thinking about cutting the center of the front diff mount out for the ground clearance,but have been concerned with a loss of stength for the front straps of the lower control arms. Am I worried about nothing?? does having the two front straps tied together do anything? thanks Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 I agree with your concerns. The loads on that area could move those front A-arm mount points laterally (which the crossmember would help hold in check). Especially with added high torque and braking loads a hi-po Z has, as well as the cornering loads. But another alternative is to cut the center out, and weld in a stiffer design that's not as low between the too. Something wide (front to back) but not as deep would do the trick, and of course, keep the total cross sectional area of the center part you put in substantial. I'm thinking maybe some rectangular thick wall tubing here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Thanks for the link Pete,I will see what I can do about getting some of these made. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Guys, I just wanted to make an update to my info here. As soon as I backed the car out of the driveway, I heard a banging noise in the rear. When I put the mount in, there was about 1/4" clearance between the bottom of the differential nose and the front crossmember, with the stock mount removed. Well, that's not enough. The diff hit the crossmember everytime I backed off. I band-aided it by putting some rubber between the two parts with a nylon tie, but I need to get the front crossmember out and take a chunk out of the top/center of the crossmember to make some clearance. I want to keep the crossmember there to hold the stiffen the front mount points from moving toward/away from each other due to cornering, braking, and acceleration loads, so the idea of hacking the ends off and just using them is out for me. 11 years, and it's still just a prototype . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted July 3, 2002 Share Posted July 3, 2002 Pete Is there some way to retain the stock mount when using the snubber? How about raising just the area in the snubber bracket where the mount is attached? I know this changes the diff angles again. Let me know if you need something made. MikeS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 MikeS, No, there's just no room above the mount area. That's exactly where the parking brake linkage is. What would be needed is a shorter mount. To get the stock mount in there, it'd take a VERY short mount above it. BTW, my GM tranny mount ripped. This is what was causing all the noise I had, and the diff hitting the crossmember. The mustache bar was holding up the entire diff! I had put alot of stress twisting the mount about a vertical axis when tightening the top stud last. It ripped the plate with the stud right off the stick GM tranny mount. I put an Energy Suspension urethane diff mount in it's place. (Heck, I had to pull the tranny over the weekend anyway! Ugh! It's back on the road and made the 150 mile round trip to Mike Kelly's B'day party yesterday.) Anyway, I couldn't use the "stiffener" plate that comes with the mount, as it spaced the diff down too far. Without the stiffener, I think it will be o.k. anyway. There was no untoward vibration that I could discern. With the secondaries opening up in 4th gear to show a Carerra Porsche that the old Jap car could get bigger FAST is his rear view mirror after he passed me on the highway, there was NO drivetrain vibration - only the sweet sounds of the X pipe dual exhaust going through 2.5" Hemi Super Turbo mufflers, and the induction noise through the holley Anyway, I see NO reason to even mess with the stock mount if you're going to the trouble of the pinion snubber. The Urethane diff mount is an interlocking design and very heavy duty. It serves to locate the front of the diff positively with little gear noise being transmitted, a bit of gear lash take up being transmitted, and most importantly, it locates the diff in a JTR positioned V8 Z at a great angle that gives a 1 degree or a bit more u-joint angle. No driveline vibrations from high torque application - one of the biggest problems with V8 Zs- is solved. The pinion snubber (over-the-diff-mount) design that Ron Tyler came up with is the best of all worlds IMO. It puts the mount in COMPRESSION under severe torque transfer during forward acceleration, and with the Urethane mount in it, it provides ample strength in acceleration and decceleration (taking your foot off the accelerator in a low gear). All this without alot of noise being transmitted. The gear noise coming from the Pro 5.0 shifter in my new Tremec 5spd is louder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 Any of you wizards think you can make one of these? http://www.zcarworkshop.com.au/Newsite/home.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 Huh? Make what, a rally Z? Did you mean to link to a particular part of that site, or a picture from it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 I think Lockjaw might have meant this, The "Adjustable Differential Stay" is what they call it. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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