Gixxer Squid Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Bought a Z on ebay and knew it had fender flares that needed to be addressed as they rubbed with 15" tires (I have 17" now and can't drive it because it rubs to bad until I get this addressed). They look tacky and are not functional so I bought the ZG flares. I had orginally thought the flares were fiberglass and were bondo'd into the body for a sleek look. Took the chawzaw to the fender to remove since the zg flares require some cutting of original fender only to find out that the flares are METAL and the jackass that installed them cut the original fenders completely off and tacked the cheesy fender flares directly to the body. My issues are this: These flares are higher on the body than the current ZG flares require so its impossible to mount them over this atrocity. Look at the lines in the pix. Somehow I am going to have to reweld some metal once I cut this crap off but I am not quite sure how to go about this and looking for suggestions. I assume some 20 gauge metal for this. I was going to mount the ZG flares myself but I don't know "jack" about making a freakin fender and maybe its way above my capabilities. Thank goodness they left the front alone. I don't need something perfect since the ZG's are going to cover most of the opening but I can't mount them that high on the back Suggestions on remedies most welcome?! James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Is this for real? Those look like the metal flairs that I think MSA used to sell. Looks like the were installed very well. That WAS a nice looking Z with nice looking paint. I hope you're joking around................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexdeprat Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 Beautiful flares, nevertheless if you wish to remove then I’ll recommend for you to sand the entire ¼ panel or were you believe that the flares is married to the original metal, once you get to the weld, it should be an easy removal from there, a grinder or a chisel, and take it to town. Nonetheless, as per the pictures, it looks like a well done job, perhaps all you need is some coilover to lower the Z just a bit and make the flares look functional and not so high. Good luck. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxer Squid Posted December 21, 2008 Author Share Posted December 21, 2008 Beautiful flares, nevertheless if you wish to remove then I’ll recommend for you to sand the entire ¼ panel or were you believe that the flares is married to the original metal, once you get to the weld, it should be an easy removal from there, a grinder or a chisel, and take it to town. Nonetheless, as per the pictures, it looks like a well done job, perhaps all you need is some coilover to lower the Z just a bit and make the flares look functional and not so high. Good luck.Alex I think they are MSA's. The previous tires rubbed which were 15" and now I have 17 but with a lower profile and they still rub. If you look close enough at the pix the flare should actually flare OUT, not down which is why both set of tires where scraping on big bumps and hard turns. I do have coilovers and they are as high as they will go. 250 lb spring in the back. While I will agree they did a pretty flawless job molding the flare into the body, a 15" tire should not rub and the flares are not the look I am going for( car rides waaaaaayyyyy to high anyhow). As for the paint job, yes it WAS nice but the car is going to be repainted anyhow so I am not concerned so much. I am not asking how to remove them, I will do that with a plasma. I am asking what the best way would be to semi-mold a new metal piece in to attach the new flares that will stay consistant with the body lines of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 sounds like you have the wrong offset on your rims. Those flares should handle a 245 plus tire if they were on the correct rim.Swapping wheels is probably cheaper than ZG's,body work and a paintjob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexdeprat Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 I am not asking how to remove them, I will do that with a plasma. I am asking what the best way would be to semi-mold a new metal piece in to attach the new flares that will stay consistant with the body lines of the car. Oh Gotha! Well to be very honest with you, once the flares are removed, I will buy a pair of ¼ panels either new (some vendors have then-eBay had a pair not too long ago-) or go to a salvage yard with a grinder or a plasma and cut yourself some good sheet metal (1/4 panels), going that route will guarantee you a more consistent marriage with the counter lines on the sheet metal; There is always option B.2)buy a cheap s30 rolling chassis and get finger happy with it.. Take care, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 I never really liked those flares. To bubbly. It does seem like the bottom edge is kind of messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxer Squid Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 I never really liked those flares. To bubbly. It does seem like the bottom edge is kind of messed up. Glad someone agrees with me, the bubble is to high on the body in my humble opinion. I could handle the bubble but again, the flare is flared down instead of outwards and I have the car raised 3" higher than normal with the coilovers to try and compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxer Squid Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 There is always option B.2)buy a cheap s30 rolling chassis and get finger happy with it.. Take care, Alex I actually was thinking about that but living in a townhouse with no garage and car parked on the street makes this option a bit more difficult. I think I will remove them myself and then take it to a body shop to keep the lines consistent. I am going to shave the front and rear lights and may even weld the headlight bucket seam as I had done on my previous Z 15 years ago. The rims are 9" offset -12 both front and rear. Thanks for suggestions so far. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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