Drag racing...breaking things, NEED HELP!!

[rwill300x@hotmail.com]

So I decided to hit up Houston Motorsports Park on sunday's "Run Whatcha Brung" and race my buddy's 04 Mustang. I have a 1982 280ZX N/A that runs like a scalded dog. The first run, the ole Texas Bullet took off impressively and took the stang a half a car the whole 1/8th.

 

Let the cars cool down, watch a few busa's on roids tear down the track at like 125 mph in a few seconds. Some Nova's and trucks with nasty big blocks pullin wheelies, then run em again.

 

This time I got a better burnout and took him again, cutting the light and tearing down the track I ran slower mph wise, but I got such a good reaction time that I got a better ET.

 

Well, after the second race, she started limping back to the pits. Sounded like the plugs were acting up, a cylinder wasn't firing, or a valve was sticking. It sounded like it had such a big cam that it wouldn't barely idle. Put some fresh, correctly gapped plugs and nothing changed. Checked the air filter, fuel filter, vaccumm everywhere, injecter connectors, man I think I've checked just about everything!

 

Well, that's not all the problems, then after I saw my fuel gauge was on 1/4 tank, I thought maybe something got sucked up into the pump, but that's not really a concern anymore. I filled it up with the usual 93 Shell and still, no change. On the way back to my buddies house, she won't get past 2000 something RPM's. It keeps bogging down around 2 something grand, then you have to shift all the way to 5th where you can only go 50 and it sounds like something is about to break. THIS CAR IS UP TO 50 MPH IN SECOND GEAR!! pull the plugs and they are fould out....I just put brand new NGK's in there at the track!

 

We had it in the parking lot of his complex from like 1130P to 1A revving it up listening for vaccumm leaks meanwhile a cloud of smoke is overtaking the parking lot. It is running, but it's running like crap! The next morning it starts a few time and I go to check the ECU fault codes, now it won't start...... Yeah, I know, it's more than likely fried! I heard if the green light comes on then it's still good. Don't know how much truth is in that, care to comment??

 

Now it turns and turns. I have fuel, fire, and compression....still no run. I've heard it could be cylinder head temp sensor, ignition control module.

Also, I've been told it IS possible to jump time, but it's hard when you have a chain, but also that you won't jump time with a chain..... I was runnin her somewhat hard, I can't lose to a mustang!

 

I'd really like to see if anybody has any useful info, I know it's a few things, but if you see something that I wrote that sounds familiar and know a trick or something. Thanks, ZXWilly

[woldson]

I like your write up.

Can you enlighten us more on your engine, (mods)? Also color of smoke and smell. That is a pretty tough engine to just break mechnicly, how many miles, conpression numbers,ect.

[(goldfish)]

What did the plugs look like, Pictures?

Pop the valve cover and check the lash.

[MadMaxDallas]

That statement is not true they will jump time, and since you were "driving it like you stole it" its a pretty good chance you did. That does not mean I dont do it. Bit of searching will make it easy on you, looking for timing chain or valve timing.

 

Easy way would be just to check compression, if timing is off, you will have low compression.

[nissan_matt22]

fuel filter i had this happen

[gearheadstik]

Fuel pressure regulator? Check the psi...Had this one happen to me, so much pressure, it was blowing fuel in my crankcase..

[woldson]

For him to have beaten a mustange, I dought he is stock.

To guess, he needs to give more info.

[stroked_Z]

just from personal experience.

 

drag racing = breaking things.

 

but im sure you'll figure it out.

 

how did the plugs look. oily? how was your oil pressure? do you run an aftermarket ignition setup? what engine?

[rwill300x@hotmail.com]

Ok, the engine is a non turbo 2.8L I-6. Unsure if it's bored, the guy who I bought it from did some work to it. Mild cam, Fire Ball coil, straight 2 1/2in pipe into a Ravin performance exhaust. Runnin the recom. NGK plugs. Haven't done a compression check in a few weeks, last time all cylinders were at 181psi, except 1 and 5 had around 123psi. About 10-15 more than the manual said it should be. Oil pressure is steady at 60psi, it did drop and then came back up, but as far as I know it's fine.

 

All day yesterday I was messin with the timing chain and I moved it 1 tooth, IT STARTED! Ran like ♥♥♥♥, but it ran, oh, that was after we put some starting fluid in the manifold. I think it just needed that to get started, cause it ran without adding anything again. Moved the chain again, not much change, then I moved it completely back the other way to where I started, then coming back one the other way, advancing it, and it almost sounded like it was back to square one.....It doesn't line up on the crank pulley though.

 

It runs, but still "limps" like it did on the way home from the track, that's why I say back to sqaure 1. I think it's a sensor, all my contacts are green, gonna clean em up with some CRC when I get some time off. I found one sensor beneth the thermo housing with the wire completely broke off! Can't figure out what one it is,

 

WILL TRY AND GET SOME PICS SOON!!

 

I'm trying to cover everything and it seems like forever talking about it, but TYPING?!

 

Plugs- Everytime I pull my plugs they are coated in carbon, AND gas. The car has run rich since I bought it. The # 6 plug fouls quicker than the rest, I checked the fuel injecter connections and 5&6 were green, cleaned them up with some CRC spray. Still, I can pull the #6 plug while it's running and it makes no difference in the idle!

 

Well, Thanks to GEARHEADSTICK, I had a light go off in my foggy brain! When I pulled the valve cover it smelled like fuel! I'll check out that fuel pressure regulator. Oh yeah, the fuel filter, I pulled it off and nothing but clean fuel came out, I just changed that like 2 weeks ago. One heater hose underneath the intake manifold feels like silky smooth, don't think that's doin too good for my vaccumm, gonna pick one up when I get off.

 

I do plan on checking the valve clearences tomorroww. A few other things that are in the plans: I have a T-5 that I picked up that is missing a short throw shifter. Somebody thought the meaning of "short throw" could be achieved through cutting the shifter and re-threading it....jackass. Also have a turbo flywheel that needs to be cleaned up. It has an R-200 diff and I have a brand new MSA turbo driveshaft to mate up with the T-5.

 

I have many pics of the diff and everything as I had to replace the mount bushing on the diff. I was on my way to my Grandpa's house on Christmas and something started bangin around and it went along with the speed of the car, it was intermittent.

 

SO OVERALL- Moved the timing chain over one tooth and it came back to life, still havin a problem with it stumblin. Scared shitless that the timing is off and somethin is gonna burn up or break. Haven't run it up the road yet, had to work....and here I am.

[gearheadstik]

My oil level had raised a qt or so after trying to start for a while...was thin as water..

[MadMaxDallas]

You can check if the timing is right or not. Take the spark plug out of #1 cyl. and your valve cover off.

 

Remove the wire from the coil to dizzy so it will not start.

 

Bump the motor, trying to get the cam lobes to the 10 and 2 o'clock position on #1 cylinder. When you are close, look at the timing mark on the crank shaft, it SHOULD be near 0 deg. Move it until it is actually on 0 deg on the mark. Look closely at the cam lobes. See if they are still in the 10 and 2 o'clock position. (at this time you should also check that the piston is fully up, in case the chain has jumped drastically.)

 

If they are not, your timing is off. I have only set the timing when I have had the front of the cam chain cover off. There are marks on the cam gear, and crank gear (little Ticks) and you align the chain using the two marked links onto these Ticks (there are two links that are brighter than the others).

 

I would suppose if it is off, you could try and get it aligned by observing just the cam lobes, trying to get them centered while you are on the timing mark on the crank shaft.

 

Maybe others could give you a better way, I am just giving you what I have done.

[rwill300x@hotmail.com]

So the chain is stretched....There is WAY too much slack in the T/C. I'm about to get a kit and repair it, see what that does. While I'm under there I'll be able to see those marks, which is good, cause it's buggin the hell out of me.

 

Also, I think the coil might be messed up, don't know? My pop checked the resistence of the wires, but we don't know what is normal. I plan on getting some more wires soon, and a new coil.

 

LX-91 from Crane Cams, I have one on there right now and I definitly recommend them!!

 

I picked up some CRC contact cleaner and die-electric grease on the way to work, so when I get off I'm gonna get to work on the Z. Thanks for the responses, all a great help! ZXWILLY

[MadMaxDallas]

Glad you got it figured out. It is easy if the engine is out. Doing it inside would kill my bad back.

 

Ya other than all the stuff you have to clear out to get to it, its really not to hard.

 

As a minimum, you will need the chain, and gaskets that cover the chain. I would suggest you get new chain tensioner too. There are two sides to that, a straight side (right side looking at front of engine) that does not wear much, and the left side that keeps the tension, you will for sure want to replace that, plus get the spring loading section that presses on the left side too.

 

I dont know if you have the FAST program, it will let you put in your vin code and pull up all the parts you need. I believe its available if you search the forum, if not give me a pm.

 

 

So its a nice cam huh? Well I have this turbo motor setting here in the garage, waiting for me to start taking it apart... While I love the inline 6 motor, I have been doing some comparisons on the amount of cash I want to spend on making it a 325 hp motor, and putting a ls1 in it.... that has even more potential. On paper, it is almost a wash. The only difference is the pride of building a inline 6 that can still give em hell. Verses somebody saying "well you have a ls1".

 

Also, look around if you dont have a manual on the motor, there are ones online. It will describe how to line up that chain.

 

Decisions Decisions...

 

Again, I dont envy doing that job in the car...

[(goldfish)]

You can check if the timing is right or not. Take the spark plug out of #1 cyl. and your valve cover off.

 

Remove the wire from the coil to dizzy so it will not start.

 

Bump the motor, trying to get the cam lobes to the 10 and 2 o'clock position on #1 cylinder. When you are close, look at the timing mark on the crank shaft, it SHOULD be near 0 deg. Move it until it is actually on 0 deg on the mark. Look closely at the cam lobes. See if they are still in the 10 and 2 o'clock position. (at this time you should also check that the piston is fully up, in case the chain has jumped drastically.)

 

If they are not, your timing is off. I have only set the timing when I have had the front of the cam chain cover off. There are marks on the cam gear, and crank gear (little Ticks) and you align the chain using the two marked links onto these Ticks (there are two links that are brighter than the others).

 

I would suppose if it is off, you could try and get it aligned by observing just the cam lobes, trying to get them centered while you are on the timing mark on the crank shaft.

 

Maybe others could give you a better way, I am just giving you what I have done.

 

Some times the damper ring with the timing mark can slip. Try looking down the spark plug hole or stick something down it too.

[SHADY280]

if you are going to beat the crap outta it, you may wanna check out msa for their timing chain tensioners, they are rollors, not guides, expensive tho, but kinda like insurance if your going to be doing this sort of thing, they also offer a reinforced timing chain as well.

[rwill300x@hotmail.com]

So I ordered a T/C kit from The Z Store, should be here soon. I got a gasket kit from O'Reily's, it covers everything I'm gonna take off. All but the oil pan gasket, I ordered that just in case.

 

Yeah, I looked it over in my manual, looks like fun! It's my first time doing it, but that's just how I learn. I feel you on the pride issue, I'm goin high compression, I want at least 300+ hp. I know these motors are capable of doin it, the LS1 is definitly in my mind for future plans. I want to have a killer Z, but be able to say, it ain't turbo. THAT'S impressive!!

 

I love Z's, I want to own a 260Z 2+2. I never liked 2+2 models, my first Z was an 86' 300zx and I couldn't stand those four seaters, but those late 70's 260's are TOUGH! Of course, I would gut it, no back seats in my Z's. But yeah, I'd like to put a LS1 in that!

[MadMaxDallas]

I have 2 280zxt myself, enjoy the heck out of them, of course their a bit heavy compared to the 240's 260's and I keep a good eye out on craigslist here in dallas. This one almost made me jump, but right now dont have the money for it.

 

72 240 drag car, that could be redone back for the street.

 

[ZXT_bean]

sounds like you are still running the factory FI. check the AFM and make sure the flapper isnt stuck. i know that happened to me and i got alot of the same issues you are.

[rwill300x@hotmail.com]

I can't stand these flapper style meters, I like the free flowing pin style I had in my 300ZX. There's a post on this forum to do the conversion, but I have enough on my plate!

 

I have the new T/C and tensioner on there but still haven't started her up yet. I have a silcone hose set on order. The tensioner was all ate up, I cleaned all the connector terminals by pulling them out through the back and cleaning the whole thing and sliding it back in and packing it with die-electric grease. Have the sensor on the thermostat and a cylinder head temp sensor on order too. I need to replace every single connector on this thing. It's really trying my patience with all the corrosion, and that 26 year old wiring!

 

I hope to get them online and re-wire it. Ultimitly I want to MegaSquirt it. I like the set up they have, I've heard they are pretty darn good! You get rid of all that old wiring.

 

Also, I replaced my front sway bar bushings with poly. I got a set from Energy Susp. a few weeks back and already did the rears. Now I need some strut inserts, BAD! Only problem being, Modern Motorsports LTD. hasen't gotten back with me about an adjustible coil over set up, that is the only one I want on there! They stopped making the rear Illuminas for the 82's. Don't know why?

 

Anyways, I picked up some clevis pins and some lynch pins so I can make my own hood pins.

[HowlerMonkey]

Unplug the head temp sensor near the 5th spark plug.

 

You will probably find it corroded and making bad contact.

 

When that happens, you get exactly the symptoms you are describing.