L28 turbo conversion

[bmarchuk]

Before reading, if you have a link to a good L28 rebuild reference/thread, please post. Im specifically looking for information on a full L28 rebuild, or an L28->L28ET conversion.

 

Ok so heres the story, I have a 81 280zx 2+2 running but in poor body condition. I got hit by someone turning right from the left lane while I was in the right lane.... yeah im pretty upset about it still.... but my entire left side is beyond repair

 

Anyways, I aquired a 1980 280zx 2+2 for only $250 with a good body but im afraid the engine is seized from sitting since 02'.. am still letting it sit with penetrants and going to try and get it to turn in a few days.

 

Since I think the engine is not going to turn im looking at my options.

 

1. rebuild the engine, but im getting alot of, just get a running engine, from others.

 

2. swap the engine from the wrecked into the new, only issue is, even though its wrecked, its still my daily driver, id like to avoid disabling it for now.

 

3. buy a running l28et and drop it in.

 

My questions are

 

If I choose to rebuild the engine, and want to convert it to a turbo, all I need is the p90 head, turbo, ecu, injectors?

 

what else do I need?

 

Can I use the pistons from my 80' L28? are they the best cost:performance option? considering I already have them.

 

I know many people say this and get scolded for it, but what is the most I can do to modify the engine for performance with low cost? Should I over bore? how much? etc...

 

I want to eventually swap in or rebuild a RB engine, so super power isnt so much of an issue, nor is how long this thing lasts. I want to get familiar with a turbo setup, and also modding/rebuilding an engine, while keeping most of the parts just modified stock.

 

 

 

 

Never built an engine before but I think I am savvy enough to do so... tell me if im in over my head.

[240z!!!]

id say get it running first then worry about modifications....oh and the last 280zx i owned sat in a field for 7 years...i took a battery and a can of starting fluid and drove it home...motors just dont lock up from sitting unless its a ridiculous amount of time or it got water in it...from a bad headgasket or something

[bmarchuk]

yeah im going to try and get it running still, but it will not turn over as it is.

 

I put a starter that I know works in, new battery cables, new plugs, wires, distributor, coil, etc.

 

Wont turn, I hear a click, then nothing, im pretty sure the starter is trying to turn the flyweel but to no avail.

 

the plugs had rust on the exterior of them, and the exhaust is very rusted, I am not sure if that is a sign of a bad headgasket or not, but i fear the worst. I am going to try and turn it manually tomorrow and see if it really is siezed or not.

[bmarchuk]

I did also find this:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860

 

So before anyone screams that I need to use the "search" feature, I kind of found what I was looking for after numerous searches.

[Daeron]

Here is my take on everything.

 

First off, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step. Go read my post there, and consider that a prologue to the rest of this post.

 

Edit:

Also, put a large socket and breaker bar on the front of the "seized" engine and try to turn it by hand. Take all the spark plugs out first; no spark plugs, no resistance to turning except bearings and pistons. it should be easy; if it isn't, pull the valve cover and make sure nothing there is sticking it up (12 rocker arms should all be obviously inplace and the timing chain should be intact and pretty tight.) Assuming that the motor is actually seized....

End Edit

 

Put a well-charged battery into the non-running car. Get it to pass all the component checks in the EFI bible. Take the engine out of the non-running car. Clean everything like the T-stat housing and water pipes, etc, get all the hoses you want to replace, get a new T-stat and water pump while you are doing all this (unless you know your water pump is recent)

 

The process of picking the engine out of your wrecked Daily Driver car and inserting it into your new, non-running car should take 24-48 hours. If I had done everything I recommend you to do, my brother and I could probably have it knocked out in 4-8 hours, depending on luck; a weekend would certainly suffice. It might not be NEARLY enough to deal with the potential problems of jumping into a new vehicle; that is why I recommend you check ALL EFI subsystems. Find your FSM and check the ignition, too; check the lights, see what the brake pedal feels like, make sure he car will be roadworthy to the best of your abilities. Do all that BEFORE you swap the engines. If needs be, make a list of "things I also need to swap in from my old car." Break the process down into little steps and you are OK.

 

Thats the secret to any sort of serious swap work when talking about your DD; do as many small pieces of the whole task as little tasks that don't sideline your car.

[woldson]

When it gose click, you should see an big draw. I am a little suprised as well that it is locked up. My guess would be that it was sitting cuse someone sized the engine and let it sit. (If it is locked up)

[bmarchuk]

yeah I was watching the volts as I tried to start it, I saw a draw but not as low as I expected, I will try and turn it with a breaker bar and socket today, I didnt have a 1 1/16 socket to do it with.

 

If it moves ill test the ignition system.

 

I assumed with the new battery connections it wouldnt be that, but assuming is never a good thing with Z's.

 

Im assuming the lady who sold it to me wasnt lying when she told me it ran 7 years ago, but that could be a bad assumtion too hah.

 

So if it doesnt move ill move on to your EFI testing Daeron.

 

Thanks for the info Daeron, much appreciated.