Xnke Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Yeah, I know, won't fit. Yet. Here's the deal: I like my Nissan "Iron Cross" 14" wheels. I'm actually looking for an extra to use as the spare. I work on (can't drive it yet...) a '72 240Z. I'm using the S12+8 solid rotor brakes up front, and will likely be using the '89 240SX rear disks with 240SX rear brake calipers. So far, the radius of the inside of the wheel is 6.75". fudge a bit for clearance, and call it 6.5". So, the brake rotor + caliper must have a total radius of 6.5" or less, at the part of the caliper that is farthest from the spindle axis. Now, the mounting face for the bracket is 46mm from the mounting face for the disk. (where the drum used to mount, sandwiched by the wheel) So now we know that from the disk mounting face, we need a 46mm or lso rotor height. (from back side of the friction face, to the back side of the mounting face, needs to be ~46mm.) the 200SX and 240SX rotors will fit the bill in this department at 46.5mm, and have a 5.06" radius, leaving 1.4" of room for the calipers to fit over the disk and under the wheel. I'll be making a trip to the JY tomarrow to pick up a set of mock-up rear brake rotors and pads (with the silly clips on them this time...ugh) and will update this thread with the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Finally got around to working on this some more, and the results are great. No rubbing, ebrake works good, AND the only part you have to make is the caliper bracket, because nothing else really fits right. I used some 1/4" plate aluminum, just drew up the bracket on it with a pencil and went at it. pretty much just a simple pair of 45 degree bends to get the caliper set at the right distance off the spindle axis, and centered up on the rotor. '89 240SX calipers '89 240SX rear rotors Custom bracket Remove stock brake lines, custom lines needed: 10mm x 1 inverted flare male to 10mm Nissan banjo bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Got Pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokeybear Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Got Pictures? yes pictures of the bracket please. I am interested to use this, a better alternative to rebuilding the back drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 No pictures yet, but it's basically the same as the '82 maxima rear disk conversion, but with a deeper offset in the bracket. I'll try to snap some tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Ok, for the bracket, it looks like the Maxima rear caliper bracket, but with a deeper offset, and clocked a little differently. I will be cutting out another set tomarrow, and will take pictures of how the bracket is shaped, as well as include the measurements here. You'll need a saw to cut the aluminum, (I used a hacksaw. Not reccomended...) a drill press, and a good half-round file. In the first post, I determined that the following would have to happen for the brakes to fit under my 14" wheels: 10.25" rotor from 89 200SX, 89 240SX, or 82-83 280ZX '89 240SX calipers Bracket: get a maxima flat bracket from the junkyard, or yank the stub axels and use the backing plate for a template to get the spindle bolts correctly located. I layed out my brackets on 6mm plate aluminum. You can use the bracket as a template to locate the ears for the caliper to mount on, but don't drill the caliper mounting holes, because you'll need to lengthen the ears. leave the ears long untill after the holes are drilled. Cut out the bracket, again, leaving the caliper ears long. Mark out the center circle from the maxima bracket, and use it as a template to drill a circle of small holes. break out the chunk in the middle, and get at it with a half-round file and a little kerosene to make it go faster. Bend the ears on the aluminum bracket back at a 45 degree angle, as close as you can to the spindle, but make sure the spindle end still bolts up flat. a bigass vice works good to hold everthing. Move out 1.25" and bend the ears back again, so that the back side of the spindle-end of the bracket and the front side of the caliper-end of the bracket are 0.9" apart, and parallel. I made a gauge out of some scrap sheetmetal to help with this. Now, bolt the flat bracket and the bent bracket together, at the spindle end, so that you can locate the holes for the caliper. Use a 7/16" drill bit to drill all five holes, and BE ACCURATE. nothing worse than having to remake the bracket due to holes being in the wrong spots. Now, bolt the bracket to the spindle, slip the rotor over the lugs, and check the caliper against the bracket. if it looks good, bolt it up, put the lugs on to hold the rotor in place, and spin to make sure that nothing is rubbing. Pull the caliper and put the pads in, and remount and check again. Now, take the car off the jackstands, and put it on the ground. Check for clearance to the brake line bracket. Compress the suspension as much as you can, and check the clearance again. Make absolutely certain that your calipers and brackets don't crash the frame, because it will really ruin your day. If it all still looks good, go get the brake lines made, and hook up the e-brake with a small steel flat with two holes drilled in it as an adaptor to get the pin-ends right. Bolt everything together and check the ebrake, making sure that it engages properly. Bleed the brakes and check the e-brake again, make sure that everything works before you take it out for that triumphant test drive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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