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Need L28et Dimension


KYO

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HowlerMonkey -- Thank you for the measurement,

as of right now I am not sure. I ws thinking about a old Datsun Pickup such as a 620 or similar.. but i dont know..

I have a l28et at my Fathers place and nothing to put it in..

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Doh.........just remeasured a f54 and it is 16 5/8 but the rivet that holds the tab must have caught when I saw 17 earlier.

 

Now as far as mounts go, the S30 and S130 mounts end up with center of the mount even with the block's bolt holes front to back but the first generation maxima mounts are shifted backwards about 1 3/4 which ends up almost the center of gravity of the longblock.

 

The s30/s130 mount rear bolt holes are the same distance from center as the maxima mount points.

 

s30mount.jpg

 

The rearward shift was necessary to mount the L28 in my M30 but I ended up cutting up some S30 mounts because it was about 2 inches too high with the first generation maxima mounts and the angles did not match the crossmember.

 

There is more at the link below which details the swap.........I might be helpful.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=993408

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Thanks for the extra info

do you have any more pics/info for relocating the dipstick then what is on your thread? i have thought about putting the l28et in a car that would need it to be front sump and the dipstick is the only part i am bit stumped on?

 

Thanks

Kyo

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The only Z31s with a L series engine that I've seen were all SCCA GT cars and I've even seen a few 240sx GT cars with L series engines..........even a few Z32s but I guess the racers have developed the v6 enough to do away with that........but for far more money.

 

 

I drilled into the block at a steeper angle such that the stick hole comes out through near where one of the bolt holes would be if the front pickup boss had them but it is a little too close to the pan to keep the angle from being too extreme.

 

dipstick1.jpg

 

I also had to drill the baffle in the pan but not a big deal.

 

I used a Mr gasket dipstick for a ford but avoid it since I found flaking on the stick itself to the point that I sanded off the offending metal that was flaking off........I also cut the stick shorter such that it hangs out about 1/4 an inch above the bottom of the first generation maxima L24e pan.

 

Poor product, if you ask me.

 

It's possible that one could just drill the front boss (a some have suggested) but I just don't like the fact that it looks very much like it passes right through the oil passage because the rear sump L28 pickup boss requires the block to be drilled right past the front stick boss.........which would not be drilled in stock configuration.

 

You can see the hole in the front boss where the stick comes out on this block that got filled with water during a hurricane.

 

dipstick2.jpg

 

My finger is on the front dipstick boss and you can see it would have to pass through the oil passage.

 

Care must be taken to make sure the pickup that you extend doesn't sit right in front of the stick making the stick hit it instead of going all the way down.

 

I first made my turbo oil return system so I had a nice hole in the side of the pan to look through to make sure I had the pickup screen near....but not on the bottom of the pan.

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sweet thanks for all that info,

so from what i understand you extended the oil pickup from the factory l28et rear location?

is that a better way of doing it?

i have heard poeple both drill the front oil pickup location and extend from the rear. do you have a pic of your extended oil pickup?

Thank you much for all the info it is very helpfull

 

 

and also while talking to a friend today he asked me a good Question.

could i block the factory dipstick hole and then run a new dipstick right in the oil pan? via a tube welded on the pan for dipstick placement ? would that even work?

I am trying to figure out if it is possiable for me to run a front sump pan

and not have to drill anything in the block.

 

so my plan as of now is

relocating the oil pickup and fitting a front sump oil pan

and running a dipstick in the pan (if that is possiable?)

 

Thanks

Kyo

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I mounted mine in the block because I really wanted it above the oil level.

 

If the oil level is ever higher than the hole in the pan, you will surely get oil coming out if the crankcase pressure ends up higher than atmospheric........unless you use some soft of super dipstick seal and a tang like some of the automatics use.

 

 

I extended the pickup using stock parts welded together but I had a few of them and used half of one for the flange for the turbo drain.

 

It has to be tucked up relatively tight and I bent down the pan baffle to clear it.........probably would have been better to cut a perfect round slot but I wanted it done right then and wasn't about to spend a ton more time chasing every single shaving from the die grinder since they are particularly nasty and I don't have a parts washer.

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