310z Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 The stereo install is a bit much, but it visually matched the rest of the car and I am attempting to keep all aspects of the car to the same level of quality. The deck is an Eclispe 5000. The speakers are all POLK MOMO; 5 1/4 in the kick panels, 6x9 inthe back, and two 10 in subs. The amps are POLK MOMO Carbon Series putting out over 1850 watts of peak power.The custom work was done by www.customworksproducts.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icapture Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 looks damn good man. is that like carbon look alike foam or something. looks too thick to be real carbon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Looks pretty good, how does it sound?? As for that carbon fiber, it looks alot like the "carbon fiber" vinyl that a lot of audio shops use to make things look cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxand280z Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 It looks freaking sweet. good Job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 The kick panels and box the 6x9 are mounted in are covered in a vinyl that has a carbon fiber appearing look to it. The vinyl looks better in person, it does not have a shine to it as the pictures somewhat appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyZ Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Do the kick panels get kicked at all. Seems like they stick out in the foot well a bit. Wouldn't care too much about the passenger side but I like my legroom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Awesome setup. The sound must be amazing...good enough (loud enough ) to hear it over the sound of the exhaust Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 Do the kick panels get kicked at all. Seems like they stick out in the foot well a bit. Wouldn't care too much about the passenger side but I like my legroom. The kick panels do not get in the way for me. I am 5.8 and have no trouble, the dead pedal is still usable. If a person was a bit taller and needed to have the seat all the way back or something, the angles may change enough to cause interfrence with your leg while your foot is on the dead pedal but it was fine for a guy 6.1 that tried it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 Awesome setup. The sound must be amazing...good enough (loud enough ) to hear it over the sound of the exhaust Davy I wish I could give you a better answer on the sound, but I have not heard it. There is nothing under the hood to provide energy, yet. In about 5 or 6 weeks everything should be in place. Then I will get to play with it. Polk Auido was contacted about the set up including the sub inclosier. Polk was able to give specifics as to exactly how to build the sub incloiser, they also gave set up advice as to cross over points etc. I dont hear as well as I did prior to many concerts in the 80-90, but if I cant hear this, I know I will have no trouble feeling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 I'm impressed by the overall design. I'm still fighting with front mid-bass speaker placement. The kick panel panel housings look great. How deep are they? The tweeters in the kick panels don't do much for me. I believe you'd have been better off fitting those in the dash trim panel adjacent to the windshield base but that's just my humble opinion. Adding upper tweeters would still be easily done. Overall, I'd say you'll be greatly impressed by the sound quality and acheivable volume when it's completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 14, 2009 Author Share Posted March 14, 2009 I'm impressed by the overall design. I'm still fighting with front mid-bass speaker placement. The kick panel panel housings look great. How deep are they? The tweeters in the kick panels don't do much for me. I believe you'd have been better off fitting those in the dash trim panel adjacent to the windshield base but that's just my humble opinion. Adding upper tweeters would still be easily done. Overall, I'd say you'll be greatly impressed by the sound quality and acheivable volume when it's completed. Thanks for complaments and advice. The kick panels are 3 1/4 in deep, that is what it took to make the 5 1/4 speaker fit. I like your idea of tweeter placement but that would be a lot more involved than what I did and may create sound problems as you may know. The problems I am refering to is when you seperate the tweeter and mid base any distance from each other you may end up with different distances from mid bass to the ear and tweeter to the ear. This distance difference can change the timming of the music as you hear it. If you are able to keep the two distances (tweeter to ear and mid bass to ear) relatively close the sound should be heard as it was meant to be. If you are able to get your tweeters mounted at the windsheld base am sure it would be great. This would give a better front stage presentation as the distances are simular. Post some pictures when you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I'm assuming that's obviously the spare tire well in the first pic and the speaker panel to lay in it in the second pic? Are you moulding a box to fit the spare tire well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 I'm assuming that's obviously the spare tire well in the first pic and the speaker panel to lay in it in the second pic? Are you moulding a box to fit the spare tire well? Yes, kind of, and no. The first picture is of the spare tire well, note it is lined in sound deadener. The spare tire well "IS" the speaker encloiser. The ported speaker panel riv-nuts in place on top of the spare tire enclioser with sealer filling any gap. Note the speaker panel is ported 3 in. dia and 11 1/4 in long. This mounting system would not work if the encloiser was sealed. I was origanally going to build two sealed boxes behind each of the strut towers. Then I showed my idea to Keith at www.customworksproducts.com . Keith use to compete behind the wheel and at stereo compititions and had better ideas. Keep weight to a minium and as low as possible. The spare tire well was the perfect spot. Keith was going to fiber glass in the spaire tire well and then mount the top speaker panel to that. Then we called Polk Audio. We told engeneers about the equiptment and the car, along with the exact dementions of the spare tire well. The engeeres became very excited and informed us that there is a better way. There is no reason to build a second enclioser, use the one you have. Line the encloiser with sound absorber. The port dementions are all engeenered by the good people at Polk Audio for the size of the enclioser and the speakers used. The speakers are wired in parllel to a 4 ohm load. I purchased the components over two years ago and if I remember correctly that will cause an RMS of 500 watts with a peak 875 watts. The box the 6x9s are in is from MSA. The port that comes in the box is sealed and then the whole box was recovered in the carbon looking vinyl. All of the conections were made using the best products Street Wires has. The engeneers at Polk Audio said this system will be awsome. I can't wait to hear it. Keith said that he hooked it up to a battery to check it out and set cross overs etc. He said it "rips, there is no shortage of power". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Well I just wanted to say thanks for the idea, as I was going to build a box to "fill" the spare tire well. But I may stray in a similar direction to what you've made. My main reason for doing this was to avoid having any visibile audio equipent through the hatch glass. (Didn't want anyone busting the glass to get at audio.) Please post some pictures of the riv-nut setup once you've figured out how it's all mounted. Excellent install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Well I just wanted to say thanks for the idea, as I was going to build a box to "fill" the spare tire well. But I may stray in a similar direction to what you've made. My main reason for doing this was to avoid having any visibile audio equipent through the hatch glass. (Didn't want anyone busting the glass to get at audio.) Please post some pictures of the riv-nut setup once you've figured out how it's all mounted. Excellent install. LowCarbZ, you are welcome and thank you. Hopefully some of the information will be of some use. I under stand your concern related to having visable components. I started out buying a pair of 6x9s and that was going to be it. Then I thought mids and tweets up front might be nice. Well then, as Polk Audio was nice enough to make their MOMO series with the same color pattern (silver, carbon fiber and a touch of red) I thought I may as well bring the sound system up to the standard of the rest of the car. I always hate seeing a great car that some how wound up with a Kraco stereo in it. It looks like the owner does not care about the sound system and some how does not think it de-values the hole car or ran out of money and skimped. The sound system is in its permanate home and I do not have any pictures of the placemant of the riv-nuts. If you have not seen riv-nuts they are like Pop Rivits. However they are rubber mounted and there is a threded hole in the center. Holes had to be drilled through the metel surounding the spair tire well. Then the riv-nuts are secured inplace. This allowed the sub speaker panel to just be screwed down to the floor. I have thought of installing limo black window tint on the back hatch and back quarter windows. This would protect the components from the sun and possibaly help keep components out of the direct view of criminals. In California it is agenst the law to tint the side windows beyond a specific level, something like 30%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 In California it is agenst the law to tint the side windows beyond a specific level, something like 30%. I just moved from Cali, and it is illegal to use any tint that blocks vision in or out of the car on the fron windows. The only thing allowed is non-colored UV tint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 310Z, you are referring to phase shift with speaker placement. I concur that this could be a problem. The way to address it is to consider time relationship to your ears where distance is the principle factor. By placing your speakers out of phase you can achieve proper timing. There are more ways to accomplish this but adding additional electronics or components diminishes the sound. My system will consist of nine speakers using only three channels. Two channels (eight speakers) for left/right and one for sub. If interested, you might want to look at the Decware site. You'll have to pay for info but what you'll learn is worth the small price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 310Z, you are referring to phase shift with speaker placement. I concur that this could be a problem. The way to address it is to consider time relationship to your ears where distance is the principle factor. By placing your speakers out of phase you can achieve proper timing. There are more ways to accomplish this but adding additional electronics or components diminishes the sound. My system will consist of nine speakers using only three channels. Two channels (eight speakers) for left/right and one for sub. If interested, you might want to look at the Decware site. You'll have to pay for info but what you'll learn is worth the small price. Thanks for the Information. I have read about phase shifts and such but that is getting too complacated for me. I dont know much about electronics. I was going to do the install myself but Keith wanted to have a chance at it and with his stereo knowledge along with having all the tools, I thought well he will do a better job than I would and he did. I hope I am done with the stereo, as the entire car ("A New 1972 240Z") starting from bare metal and finished to the same level as the stereo in all aspects should roll out of the shop for the first time in about one month. I have not driven the car in over ten years, I cant wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 The wonderful thing about dealing with phase shift is staying 'uncomplicated'. Most people want several amplifiers, eq's, and so on. It looks impressive and expensive but usually sounds no better than a 'simple' well-thought out system. When you walk into a stereo shop they'll usually have a 'custom' vehicle with a huge system and loads of soundproofing. It sounds loud and awesome sitting on the floor. It is intended to get you to part with your $$$. Back to reality. I am a 'straight wire' purist. Use the least equipment possible to minimize signal distortion. The phase shifting is done by simply wiring the speakers in or out of phase (think positive and negative leads reversed on some speakers). It really is that simple (I wish I'd come up with it). Also, for others reading this, if you're intent on using an external amplifier then invest in a high dollar low wattage unit. You can't get 200 clean watts out of a $150 amplifier. Most high-end head units have much cleaner onboard amps and provide very adequate power for matched speakers. Again, go to Decware.com for more info. I have no affiliation with the site other than paying for access like everyone else. The things you'll learn are well worth the small price of admission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 I have done quite a few stereo installs, not much with custom speaker setups, but a couple, and I agree, less is oftentimes more. You don't need 20 amps putting out 90 bajillion watts to sound good. I ran a POS Toyota Camry with a class D 2 channel 1200 watt amp and another class A 4 channel 600 watt amp, all powering 2 infinity reference 6x9's, 2 infinity reference 4" rounds, and 2 kenwood 12" subs in a dual port box that I built. The Amps were some no name brand that I ordered and after I tuned everything I was out-sounding a bunch of SUV's with $5,000 dollar systems. The key is in sound deadening and using quality wiring, having a good tuner is a really good thing too. Of course, any stereo installer worth their salt will tell you the exact same thing so I'm probably wasting my time here. Oh and I haven't even started the stereo for my S130 yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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