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Cv tech ????? scottie... others?


stony

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Ok my z31 rear swap hits its first snag. the axle are too long not really a snag i was kinda expecting it but was hoping tthat reversing the cv and adjusting the length of the arm would make up for it. NO DICE bonk.gif

 

heres what i plan on doing. im going to cut both axles then install both sides of the axle in there respective places. Then fully compress them and mark were the overlap is. from there i will cut an addition 1/2 inch off and tack weld them together. Once they are tacked together send them to moser and have a set of 27 spline axles made with the retaining clip groves cut in them.

 

Now heres my question. Will a half an inch be enough or is it too much. the cv travel is almost exactly 1 inch from compressed to fully extended. I figure a half inch will put me right in the middle so i wont have any binding issues.

 

Ok guys let me have it, what do you see in my future if i go this route burnout.gif

 

rockon.gif

Stony

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Hey bud, it's not easier to have the companion flanges sectioned and welded to only be 0.5" thick at the outer face from hub side? It would/or could be 2 flat plates with correct bolt pattern that are then welded to your sectioned stub axles. I'm sure your method would work, I'd just rather see axles as the easily replaced item, sectioning the comp. flange would reduce your angularity if that's of any concern. Just thoughts....let us know what you do and how it works out. I'd still love to hear your shaft length/bolt pattern details..........NA shafts alone might be short enough to come a lot closer to fitting?

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the shafts lengths were 15 inch compressed to 16 extended (left side) and the rights side was 15.5-16.5 compressed and extended. the bolt pattern on the stub shaft is 4 x 4 1/2 inch i measured diagonally center hole to center hole.

 

so your saying i could cut the stub flange and make a new one and weld it on? would that be strong enough? if this will work, probably would be cheaper ;>

 

if i understand your saying cut this flange and make it closed to the nut? 2227300z_cv_flange.jpg2227300z_stub1.jpg

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so your saying i could cut the stub flange and make a new one and weld it on? would that be strong enough? if this will work, probably would be cheaper

Yes, exactly what I'm suggesting as an option. Have the companion flange 'parted' in a manner that you can either reuse the front face with the bolt pattern and recess to match the shafts....or in a way that a new front face can be perfectly centered and mated to the parted OEM splined piece. If known ahead then parts should be prepped/made/parted with matching surfaces to make assembly easier and higher degree of balance. Have your machinist on board from the start and in agreement on the outcome/sucess of your intentions. Nissan often uses some very high grade cast iron that does weld quite well, I'm not informed enough to rec'd or insure that the above option would work perfectly but with a skilled machinist/welder I'd be quite confident.

 

Measure 3x's, and cut once as you know ;)

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OK, I just wrote a long detailed reply and something netwise puked it out!

 

Summary: what are the exact specs on the axles your using Stony?compressed length and outboard bolt pattern?

 

When you and I last talked a couple months ago I was working on a Z31 CV adaptor.....it's now done cheers.gif I used NA Z31 CV shafts in my design and some are shipping this week to customers so install feedback/verification should be in within 2-3 wks. I'm confident in the geometry of this new design of mine and if yours aren't fitting I'm thinking that either your axles are longer (their are various axles 84-89, the differences I'm not clear on, I just now the NA axles I used are beefier than 280ZXT units and geometry just works with the new adaptor design I came up with), or your companion flange's are thicker than the 280Z and adaptor assembly I know have.

 

I'm not clear on what your final setup is at present (ie. companion flanges/axles etc) but let me know what you're running......my new adaptors bolt onto 70-78's using OEM companion flanges and then Z31 NA CV shafts. And they're a lot cheaper than $400+just for the axles you've checked out. You've got axles already and could likely just swap them for those of the correct length if your set is longer than the NA's or what will work for you.

 

I'll be curious to hear what you've got to see what the differences are, and hope we can see you to an effective AND affordable solution shortly cheers.gif

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Ross i recieved your email.

 

Heres the situation. i was going to upgrade to the cv your talking about but i felt like the stubs were going to be the next weakest link. i read a thread a while back that you can swap the outter cvs around and it would make the axle shorter.

 

I came across a 1988 turbo 300z rearend pretty much for free and thought i would try to swap it in with the 260. i figured a little bearing shopping and the stubs would be "bolt-in" but of course they wernt. the 260 is standard bearing and the 300 was metric.

check out this thead for what i did

 

what i didnt see initially was that the stub side had a flange on it that was considerably longer then the 260 stub flange about 2 inches longer ;< and this is why the axles are too long. they are about 1.5 inch too long. So I will get a custom set of chromoly axles and hopfully be done with it ;> bonk.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

any measurements on the non turbo shafts?

Stony, here's the CV measurements I took......taken from the flat face of the wheel side flange to the opposite face of the 'seal cup' at the diff side (ie. add my lengths plus the stub lengths and it would be the total length of the shaft)

 

Z31 NA CV, Right and then Left, Extended, 17-5/8, 17-1/8, compressed, 16-3/4, 16-1/2, stubs are 3-7/8's and 3-1/2" long, all measurements right then left side....

 

Doesn't sound like they'll be of benefit with your Z31 stubs and present setup. Do you have any 'unaltered' lengths from your turbo Z31 shafts?

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well sounds like the NA and TUrbo shafts are about the same length unaltered. the turbo shafts were about 3/4 shorter total on both sides with the reversed CVs. I guess reversing the inner cv made a difference. i guess its off to the axle shop i go. Looks like a set of chromoly center bars are in order. Should make the whole setup that much stronger. I figure the next weak link will be the CV itself or the diff. thanks for the help Ross. I think i asked you this but any ideas on the z31 rotor and caliper swap? I think all i need to do is make brackets for it. emergency brake is gonna tricky though ;< rockon.gif

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