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Just to let everyone know what I have figured out for radiator hoses after a lot of hours at NAPA with the belt & hose book in hand. The store I went to must have at least 500 hoses hanging on pegs.

Part number 8216 for the top hose and part number 7359 for the bottom hose. Both will require one 1 1/4" reducer available from NAPA or JTR but the hoses fit pretty well, not perfect but GOOD. The top hose is a little bit of a stretch but it fits, With the torque of the engine it will loosen not tighten so it should be fine. No cutting or splicing needed. But if you do want to cut and splice they have a "heat Shrink" connection product that will elimimnate the Hose Clamps for a much cleaner look.

This should save someone a lot of headaches.

Larry

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Well, lets see the pics!

Do you have the steam line attached? This always got me confused as to which side to dump the vent line, some to the passenger side radiator bottom hose and some say the drivers side radiator top hose. I am putting my second engine back in and will be re-doing all my hoses again as they were temp at best before. I used the JTR Tee fitting on the hose running to the bottom.

Greg

Greg

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Greg. I just picked up today a special tee for the steam vent and the oil cooler. The cooler requires a 1 1/4" b y 5/8" tee which I bought from JTR then I had another fitting welded by my radiator shop to accept a 3/8" hose barb for the strea vent which go's on the top left radiator hose. It's hot water and you want it to cool before going back into the engine and you want the air to exit through the radiator vent pipe. Mike at JTR says also the use the upper hose. For the vent hose, I used a 3/8" non fuel injection hose an ran it under the TB and out along side the radiator hose and connected it to the tee. Slick

But even slicker is how I connected it all together Gates makes some heat shrink clamps that you can use instead of the regular clamps. They go on easy and look barely noticable and you probably wouldn't see them if you painted them flat black to match the hose. I believe they are called PowerGrip clamps. Buy them a NAPA.

 

I just reread my last post so I guess you know about this little secret.

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Hi Larry,

Please send me some pics of your hose set-up, I don't have the oil cleaner but your pics will be worth a thousand words (:-))

I don't have the JTR chevy aluminum radiator I have a Griffin aluminum that is deep and has big connections, I bought it off some guy on ebay that had it in a 240SX race car, it fit between the frame rails perfectly so I bought it cheap.

I had the steam routed the other way before, did you hook up your heater hoses or bypass?

my email: gregory.vincent@comcast.net

I know I had previous thread on this but pictures rule!

My second LT1 motor is back in, connecting all the wiring again and I'm going to run all new fuel and heater/radiator plumbing correctly this time.

Thanks,

Greg

Thanks,

Greg

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Greg, I don't yet have any pics. I have trial fit the hoses but don't have them on at this point. The hoses that I gave part numbers for will work as I described. The heater hoses are being installed per the factory specs. In the input hose I and making a flow restrictor reducing the fow to 1/4" to reduce the pressure on the heater core. On the output side I an making a air bleeder valve to remove air pockets in the system. The head vent line I routed under the TB and to the top radiator hose using 3/8" fuel line. You would need to get a 1 1/4" tee with a 3/8" hose barb from JTR ($26) You don't need the 5/8" for the oil cooler. Actually if you have a straight 1 1/4" coupler, take it to a radiator shop and have them braise on a NPT fitting and then you can screw in a 3/8" barb, I used a 90 degree angled one aiming back to where I have the vent line coming out to keep it clean.

I should be able to take some pic in a week or two. Getting close to starting this engine up. It's wired and plumbed for gas and soon for water. I found a place today where I can get a PS delete pulley and bracket. I've got the Delta Current fan controller wired in and installed. If you look at my engine compartment, you won't see on bare wires. Every thing is in looms. So I am about ready to go. The West Coast nationals, a big Z show in Orange Ca, is comming up on 4/24. Trying to get it ready by then. Not sure I'm going to make it. I'm trying.

Larry

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Here's the parts I use with the stock radiator tanks - re-cored with high efficiency core and extra nipple added to upper tank for oil cooler return then tee the vent tube into that. works great.

 

Part Number-Manufacturer-Description-Original Application

20893-Gates-Lower Radiator Hose-1995 Camaro V6 3.4 (lower)

22011-Gates-Upper Radiator Hose-1995 Monte Carlo, Grand Prix, Lumina, Cutlass V6 3.4L (lower)

18774-Gates-Oil Coolant Hose-1993 Beretta, Cavalier, Cavalier V6 3.1L (Heater To Pipe-1)

 

engine%20rt.JPG

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I brought a similar thread up a year ago and I think this thread enforces the top hose theory.

Here was my thread from last year.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134583

In that thread I have pics of my old set-up also.

 

I was also looking through my engine photo collection of other members past LT1 installations and most of them used the lower hose like I did the first time.

Some of you guys will recognize your photos.

Curious that most of these probably worked ok???

If you see your pic let us know if you are still running this way

 

I have a Griffin rad with a huge bottom connection so I guess I will have to spend some time at NAPA searching for hoses that will fit the bottom (:-))

 

Thanks,

Greg

finishedEngine3.JPG_thumb.jpg

zbaysm_thumb.jpg

latestlt1hose_thumb.jpg

LT1 installed_thumb.jpg

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Oh, there was another thread before the one I posted last year but I can't find it right now but I did copy some text and pics from it.

I attached it as a .zip file, it is a MS word file when you un-compress it.

I couldn't upload it as a .doc file, it exceeded the limit.

 

Thanks,

Greg

 

edit, found those threads:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85393 Post #12 and more info on page 2

LT1 hoses.doc.zip

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I have a Griffin rad with a huge bottom connection so I guess I will have to spend some time at NAPA searching for hoses that will fit the bottom (:-))

 

Thanks,

Greg

 

 

JTR now has transitional hose splicers which can be used to connect a large hose to a smaller hose. These are not on the website yet, but we do make splicers that go from 1-3/4" to 1-5/16, and from 1-9/16 to 1-5/16 that may be the correct size for your application. We recently purchased a cnc lathe, and make these inhouse.

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Hey Mike,

Do you have any pics of the hose splicers?

According to all recent LT1 swaps the majority of the swaps have the vent tee on the top radiator hose now, Is JTR in agreement with this?

Will I still have the cobbled looks of radiator/hose/reducer/hose/water pump and radiator/hose/reducer/hose/tee fitting/hose/water pump? There has got to be a cleaner way to do this. It looks like a rotor rooter tiller with all the hose clamps right now.

Greg

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