80LS1T Posted January 28, 2003 Share Posted January 28, 2003 Ok I am swaping in CV's and an R200 from and 82 ZXT into my 1980 ZX. I tried to take the stub axles out tonight but I can't get that nut to come off! I have an impact but it is only rated to 250 ft lbs. Do I need something stronger? Also before I put everything in should I grease up the bearings or do anything else? I don't know much about CV's so any advise would be helpful! Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 Ok I am borrowing my buddies Snap-On THUNDER GUN! It is rated at like 600ft lbs of torque!!!! If this don't take them off them I'm not doing a CV swap! LOL Wish me luck! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 Ok well I see why the nut wont come off! It's notched on the end of the bolt! How did you guys get that notch out and the nut off! SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Since the nut is "staked" Carefully file or grind at the base of the notch. Basically , you have to weaken and remove the "notch" that locks the nut to the threads, If you have the whole system out, I would work in the notch with a little drill bit therapy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 Ok I've got the notch out but it still wont come off. It hasn't even budged! What should I do next? I dont have a torch to heat it up. Maybe I will take it to school tommorow to heat it up! If you guys don't have any other ideas. It's not a left hand thread is it? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 I used a die grinder to carefully grind off the staked part of the nut. You should use new nuts when reinstalling the stub shafts, and grease the bearings while you're in there. Probably a good time to replace those 20-year old 200k-mile bearings IMO. Ross Corrigan of Modern Motorsports has stubshaft nuts that self lock without staking, and also the correct new bolts for the CV-to-stubshaft connection. Modern Motorsports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Work on that nut a little more and work it both directions to free it up. Are you using the impact wrench? I use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet to break it free.There was a recent thread on this removal but I cannot find it.. Maybe Ross C was giving the removal directions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 Oh I got it out but it wasn't pretty! I finally got so mad that I got out my 5" hand gridnder and went to town on that nut! That wasn't working like I planned so I took off the lower control arm and then went at it with the grinder again and then it popped off! I would not recommend doing it this way! Very frusterating thats for sure. I will try to be a little more carful on the other side when I remove that notch. Thanks for the advise though! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Guy.. you might be a true renegade Hybrider... maybe that is what is meant "when stock does not cut it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 Yeah I went through the same thing when I upgraded my suspension this summer. I could not get the old bushings(metal part) out of the lower control arms so I used griders, hack saw, torch, hammer punches, and a press! I will do whatever it takes to get the job done!!! What can I say, I don't like to screw around! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Guy, Those stub axle nuts and the rear lower control arm nuts have got to be the hardest ones to remove on the Z car. On mine, I invited a buddy over to the house who use to work for the railroad (maintenance department) and showed him the nuts I wanted removed and he just smile and said piece-of-cake. The next day he brought over this wrench that was 48" inches long and socket set that was huge. I could barely lift the damn thing. Anyway, with a good tug and a screech from the nut it came right off. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Danno..post some pictures of your outstaanding suspension pieces... besides the stub axles nuts the rear control arm strut spindle pin is another night mare seems a member by the name of Dan Betha makes a tool to remove the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 I would be interested in seing what that spindle pin tool looks like...Got a rear control arm to disassemble soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Here is a picture of the tool to remove the pins and a link to its use. Larry, I will post some pics in a few days and again thanks for all your help on the struts!! http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001206 Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 Ric B I used the strut pin removal tool and believe without it one pin would have never came loose. I had to replace the tool's nut combination with a OEM Datsun high grade strut pin nut welded to a larger based turn nut. and worked that pin in both directions with lube and wd 40 spray. The pin had microscopic rust in a few places that caused the problem. I buffed the problem pin on a buffing wheel and it was still needed persuasion to re-install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 I've sent Dan Zthang an e-mail about a purchase. How did I miss this info when it first came up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 What we need is a HybridZ Tool Loan Program. Rick you have some email. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 30, 2003 Author Share Posted January 30, 2003 Well I got both bearings out of the old one and the seal along with the stub axle! Gotta love those 55 ton presses to remove bearings! Gotta go work on the other one now! And what strut pin are you guys talking about? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 30, 2003 Share Posted January 30, 2003 Guy. the real long 10 inch hidden spindle bolt that holds the spindle/stub axle housing to the suspension A arm that is formly known as the transverse link in repair literture (fix it manuals) and sometimes it come out easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted January 30, 2003 Author Share Posted January 30, 2003 Nope I'm still lost on this one!??? Does somebody have a pic? Is this on the 280ZX's and ZXT's cause this isn't ringing a bell here! Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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