RUZN Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 OK so I went to wrecker got the extra pins I needed for the ECU Swap on my 280zxt. Now Im trying to hook up MAF wires heres my Layout. A: White/Green B: White (But has a Black overcoat with silver wire inside? sheilding?) C: Black/ Large red paint spot D: Black/ Small red paint spot E: Yellow/ Red F: Red/ small red paint spot Now this MAF harness is from a Maxima VG30 but I marked colours and ABCDEF positions. Now my 280zxt Harness had these colour Wires. Yellow/Blue (AFM 34) (ECU 33) Black (AFM 33) Yellow Red (AFM 32) Yellow Black (AFM 25) (ECU 30) Now in AFSHIN's Post: A: W/G (VG30 Maxima) goes to Yellow/Black 280zxt harness B: W/ with black insulator goes to Yellow/Red from 280zxt harness C: B/With large red paint spot goes to Body Ground D: B/with small red paint spot goes to Black wire from Z Harness E: Yellow/Red goes to VCM black with white stripe under old AFM F: Red/With small red paint spot goes to ECU's 33 yellow/Lime wire Now my problem is my old harness wire YELLOW/BLUE is not mentioned, so what colour on my harness goes to Yellow Blue (which ends up being pin 33 on ECU so confused lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 So I went into AllData foundthe wiring diagrams for 280zxt and 300zxt.. it appears that my YELLOW/BLUE wire is apparently YELLOW/LIME and no im not colour blind lol very strange.. so I guess in my cae my RED/with red paint spot is going to go to YELLOW/BLUE (lime) yay!!! ALLDATA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 So ... its darkout now.... lol... thinking I can use the stock Intake tube now that AFM is gone and New MAF in its place.. I'll add a crapload of walkthrough pics for any future peoples projects if they are behind as I am to this upgrade lol. including the porting specs (which I did to the size of the gasket) Stuffed a rag in each intake port (on head) way down deep and tight so no flakes went in then vacuumed it all out afterwards then as rag comes out it sweeps anymore bits out I also added some oil to the holes so flakes would get stuck to it and not fall in so it could be easily removed when rag was pulled out. Manifold was easy, Hand ported (bit cost $40 nice wide cutter blades it never bound once and took literally 30 mins to to all ports. the Intake 65mm bore took about an hour. Wastegate another 30mins. Even experimented with the turbo output end since its so small a hole, so I ported that out a couple mill so the entire chamber was nice and smooth and even. Wiring of course was all male to female ends then solder'd for extra strength then taped so should last awhile. Lotsa extra inches of legth incase I have to fix wiring. gotta tape off each wire next to Show whats changed. tonight should be pretty much cleaning up wiring taping it all up tight rechecking replaced fuel lines. Dreading the tanny swap on ground lol.. trying to track down some truck Jack stands for height but since entire drivers side is bare every bolt is accessible passenger side not so good lol have to remove battery make some room. Gotta clean off oil and dirt anyway and paint that side. but 5speed is the way to go! cyas all later maybe 4 am LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Excellent work so far!! A detailed write up would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Yeah putting some pics of befores and Afters on My album. Also I found a way to not use a Spacer for the Throttle Body so noone really needs one if they switch to Cable linkage using simple Brake Cable and I just ground the end down a bit to fit into the cable linkage hole. Might be able to use VG30 throttle cable to looks to be almost long enough. Going to Fab up something with detailed Stats for how to mount cable to existing Firewall puller arm. goign back outside to take pics of wiring and where things are wired to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 So the Z's New 1987 300zxt ECU is in and safely tucked in behind the stock coverplate after a Bit of cutting. Wiring tape up and weatherproof. Thinking Ill take my front panels off my 81zx since they are better condition. Battery Tray is a Rotting Pile of Crap prolly the only real Rusty thing on this Z. Should I build one is there a kit? anyone anyone? OH to Clarify: After you Cut 33 Pin from ECU connector it just remains unactive? Cause in Afshins post it is and In my Diag I made up in Colour its just left with no connection afterwards sooo... anyone done this before and Remember? Turbo conversion: 300zxt Turbo and compressor mounted to 280zxt Downpipe. you need to remove the 2 (double sided) Studs (best way to, place two nuts on it and tighten then reverse lower nut). Then went to hardware store and got some 60mm long Metric bolts (25 mill is unthreaded at top half figured if they bust then I can at least get the back end off and visegrip the broken end) and those will go into the two holes allowing you to mount the 280zxt Downpipe or at least the old flange configuration without to much fussing. um next gotta mount a new bolt for the Zirc Type O2 or Titania whatever one it was you have to convert to. then add the now new 2 Coolant lines coming from the turbo (300zxt version) to the ones from the thermostat housing in a loop. Also thinking im gonna cut out a Bit more of the Heat sheild cause it was tough fishing a tool through those holes provided on the factory setup. Basically make it easy as possible to Dissasemble this thing if stuff has to be replaced next time lol. PICS coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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