Shawn MacAnanny Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I am starting a swap with a 99-00 all iron 6.0L LS1. They have the same 317 heads just cast as iron which will not remain on the engine. I am going to look at the engine her shortly and if all goes well buy it. Those year 6.0Ls also had a longer crank which are spaced for SBC style automatics so i will be running a manual 700r4 with the setup. I have been doing a little reading and it seems the easiest to just go with the JCI kit and i downloaded the word document with the step by step process. So i buy this $295 kit and that includes the extra braces, engine mounts etc and a drive shaft? That's it? I plan on using an LT1 radiator and fans set, they can be had very cheeply and work extremely well (thicker than the ls1 radiators). I'll keep this all updated with pics and such but progress will be slow as ill be gathering parts for the first few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Look again at the JCI site. The $295 is just for engine mount kit, you then need the trans mount (not sure which one will work with that combo), driveline, headers, etc, which will add another $700 or so. Pretty much plan on an honest $1000 to install the drivetrain and then a few hundred to get the rest of the exhaust done. Collect everything you can and then plan on more stuff and money when you actually get to putting it in. Have fun!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn MacAnanny Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Well that just makes it cheaper for me then. I'll use some Carshop mounts, make my own crossmember and strengthen the chasis as i see necessary. I'll jus thave dennys make me another driveshaft. Should only be about $400 but i know they are good. I paid $450 for a lifetime warranty one for my firebird no hp limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Boost the ♥♥♥♥ outta it! Those 6.0 iron blocks are mean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn MacAnanny Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Yeah its tempting but i would need the tranny and diferential to handle it plus i dont see me getting much tire under the rear of these cars. I'm running 315x30x15 MT et street radials and i can still spin them on my 68. These engines make some rediculous power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn MacAnanny Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 Going to pick up my 6.0L iron block next week. Then ill start collecting parts. I plan on using the Carshop mounts and making them work. Shouldnt be too hard i dont think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filmjay Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Stroke it to a 427. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-EA035-427&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn MacAnanny Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Haha yeah thats for a 4.125 bore. You can max safely bore a 6.0L block to a 4.030, a 4.060 with sonic testing, or you can go 4.030 and a 4.1 stroke to get like 414 but no 427. You need an LS3 block (the 6.2L) the an LS7 block to run a bigger bore. I am however looking at 4.250 cranks to make it a 434. Trying to find someone actually runing that setup though. That kit is also way expensive. You can get them from texas speed and performance for $2,000 or less all day long. One of the most reputable ls1 shops there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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