Shawn MacAnanny

Well i dont know anything about these cars i am an LStech i know all about gen 3 small blocks, i had no interest in learning the l28 system until i decided to keep in a couple months ago and put it all on hold through he snow we got.

Well i have a new ecu, ignition relay, and ignition module on its way to see if it fixes it. havent gone through the entire ecu but my ignition module does look a little water damaged so i am thinking that might be the problem. Its very random. I can drive 500 miles and have it not happen once or have it happen every 30 seconds. It'll happen while dirving, around turns, straight line coasting, accelerating, braking, it'll happen after i park wont restart, it'll happen when its 90 out it'll happen when its 25 out. I've visually checked over all of the wiring and fuction all of the components best i can if this doensnt fit it then i guess i will have to do the ECU method

Actually i just did that and replaced a fuew fuel lines. I blew compressed air backwards through all the tank fittings and such to make sure the passages were clear (low pressure like 30psi) and cleaned the tanke really good with gasoline. Thre was a good bit of debris in there but nothing that looked like it would be clogging, barely any rust.

I actually already got one thanks though

It's a 1978 i will check that too although the gauge has never lost pressure. It seems low but i dont really trust that gauge any way

Ive been doing alot of research and from everything i have read i have narrowed it down to the transistor ignition module which i found to be water damaged when i inspected it so i have a new one on order and this should hopefully fix the problem.

Ive been doing alot of research and from everything i have read i have narowed it down to the transistor ignition module which i found ot be water damaged when i inspected it so i have a new one on order and this should hopefully fix the problem.

Tommy those links arent working for me for some reason. Iordered a new transistor ignition module as this is what is causing my random cut off and no start condition as well as a new ecu and a new ignition module to see if any of that helps. I also have a spare afm incase the one on there does work with the new ecu. Anybody know what that black part is in the distrubutor or what the clearence should be set it?

Well i wasn't sure if i damaged something by removing the black magnetic sensor or whatever it is in the distributor. I know little to nothing about the distributors. It's not a points distributor and it's not an electronic one because there is no ignition module that i can find. There is a black sensor that to me is some sort of magnetic pick up sensor for the distributor cam. Anyway thanks for the help i'll try to check it out some more tomorrow.

Thanks guys i ended up finding the correct part number one on ebay and one from a member here.

Mine looks water damaged and from what i am reading this is causing my intermittent shut off problem so i want to buy one and see if that works. Here is a pic of what i am talking about. This is not the ECU correct? I know absolutely nothing about these cars. I had planned on just switching the L28 out and putting the 6.0L ls1 in it i had but ended up selling the motor and keeping the engine it had as it was recently rebuilt. Anyway, does anyone have one or know where i can get one?

The tach has always worked fine. It's not slow to move the needle, doesnt stumble or flutter but it has completely stopped once or twice before then returns to functioning normally. Today i dropped the gas tank, cleaned it all out, replaced a few fuel lines etc in an attempt to diagnose my cutting out issue which i havent been able to duplicate. Any idea what might have caused the tach to stop working. I drove around for about 20 minutes and it just suddenly stopped. I did mess around inside of the distrubutor and and remove the black magnetic trigger or whatever it was and put it back where it seemed to be. Where exactly does the tach get its signal from? Also any ideas on my random shut off and no restart for 5 min condition?

Didnt get the email for some reason Thanks it's been a while since i messed with this datsun as it was getting and ls1 swap which was delayed due to switching careers haha

I think the ECU is going bad on my Z as it will randomly not start and cut out and not restart at random so i am looking for a an ecu and matching vane air flow meter. My car is a 1978 280Z 2+2 5 speed.

Started it again today, started and idled fine. What would be causing this intermitant no-run condition? It has me stumped.

I parked this car a few days ago and went to start it and as soon as it start it runs at around 400rpm missfiring really badly then stalling out. I cant get it to rev above 2000rpm either. It seems to me like the engine isnt getting enough fuel pressure possibly. The ignition coil is new cap and rotor is new wires and plugs are new headgaskets are new rockers were just adjusted How would i check the fuel pump? The fuel pressure regulator or what i'm assuming is the fuel pressure regulator looks new as well. I dont see a schrader valve to check the pressure or anything I have also had constant problem where if i am driving out of nowhere the engine will die and usually start right back up in about 30 seconds. Sometimes i will park it hot and not be able to get the engine to start for 5-10 minutes of cranking and waiting. I have cleaned every electrical contact with Caigs D5 and swapped and tested the AFM (both). This AFM seemed to run alot better than the old one. I am probably going to swap back in the old one just to see if it does anything but this car ran great with the new one so i dont see why its an issuse. I had it opened and checked it all over. Any ideas guys? I'd really like ot get this running right and paint it before the LS1 swap.

What black box? its i coil distributor not electronic? I'm gonna go outside and look for it. I've had this distributor out a few times never payed much atttention to it. Whats the remedy for this problem? New distributor? Can i take this box apart and fix it?

I've been driving this car for a month just about every day now getting the engine to 100% before paint and such and i CANNOT figure out what the problem is. I'll be driving along, doesnt matter how fast, going around a turn, stopping, accelerating, there's no pattern to when it does it it just shuts off. Like fuel is cut to it. I can sometimes keep the pedal pressed down and it will spring back to life while coasting in about 15 seconds other times i have to pull over to the side of the road and crank it. It doesnt matter if i leave the key on for a while to run the fuel pump, or i crank the engine sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesnt. Also sometimes it will run really rough when it starts back up. I have no idea what it causing this. The car runs PERFECT. I get about 26mpg (its a 5 speed), has a new head gasket, new FPR, cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs, fuel filter, ive tested the AFM, TPS, ECT, cleaned every single electrical contact with Caigs DeoxIT, fuse pannel looks clean, everything just seems to be fine. I dont think its the fuel pump contacts in the AFM, the were fine when i checked them. Does anyone know what it could possibly be? I have no more ideas. I dont think its a loose ignition as all my gauges and lights stay on and function. It's like the engine just loses fuel or something. It doesnt buck hard or anything though it just coasts as if i let off of the gas. If i push the clutch in its completely dead though. Thanks for reading guys i'm at a loss for possibilities here.

The one that was origionally on the car that i tested and tests fine is #A31-604-000 The one i bought that works fine is # A31-625-000

Yeah i had a rear bearing completely fail on my Porche 944 and it titled the wheel into the wheel well. I ended up re-using the bearings because it was raining when i was finishign it up and i didnt have a new spindle/bearing seal. I bought new wheel beadings and all but ended up just re-packing the outer bearing, the inner bearing i put some more grease in with my finger. It all seems fine. I'll re-check them in 50 miles or so and see how they're holding up.

Ok well i found the problem. The car had the wrong AFM. i tested the one that was on there, tested perfect i bought one of Ebay with a different serial number just to try it and MAN!!! this thing runs great. Im definately holding off on putting in my 6.0L LS1 for a while this is such a fun car to drive.

Well the bearings on it now seem perfectly good so i may just reuse them.

I decided to replace the front brake pads on my 78 Datsun 280 today since the one pad wore thru the rotor and scuffed it up pretty bad. One piston on the caliper was frozen so i decided i would use a ball joint fork to bang in there and compress the piston. Worked fine for 3 of the pistons since i was using a flat blade on the other side to keep the piston square in the bore. Well this last one was froze up pretty good and i ended up cracking the rotor which i wasnt worried about until i realized these are the style attached to the wheel hubs so i see i must removed the axel nut and possibly bearings to get to it. So here are my questions. I removed the dust cap, see theres a cotter pin and a locking cap etc so i removed those, and the whole assembly slides off? What do i retorque the axle nut to? I read you torque it down then back it off 60 degrees but couldnt find how much to torque it to. It looks like the rotor unbolts from the hub assembly correct? What grease do you all reccomend for packing these bearings? Can the bearings be re used? I'll be ordering a new rotor and caliper from Autozone tomorrow for $42 rotor, and $32 caliper. Thanks guys! Shawn

Yeah thats the one i already have. I'm just going to rip out the old engine and start mocking up for the new engine.

Haha yeah thats for a 4.125 bore. You can max safely bore a 6.0L block to a 4.030, a 4.060 with sonic testing, or you can go 4.030 and a 4.1 stroke to get like 414 but no 427. You need an LS3 block (the 6.2L) the an LS7 block to run a bigger bore. I am however looking at 4.250 cranks to make it a 434. Trying to find someone actually runing that setup though. That kit is also way expensive. You can get them from texas speed and performance for $2,000 or less all day long. One of the most reputable ls1 shops there is.