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ECU / Fuel Pump Problem


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My question is, can replacing an ECU with a replacement with a different part number, and fewer electrical pins cause the car not to function properly? I replaced the ECU in my 1977 280Z that has 26 pins with an ECU with 35 pins.

 

Would the exchange not work if the pin count is not the same? I'm trying to get my fuel pump to work? I was told that the ECU was bad.

 

The old ECU part number is A11-600-000. The replacement ECU part number is A11-000-000. The car is Fuel Injected.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i havent ripped my car apart yet. but i came across a similar issue yesterday.

 

back in october the original fuel pump crapped out on me. so i replaced it with an oem. in that same instance, the fuel pump connector was bad (datsun's wiring sux, and who ever was in charge of that should be brutally tortured [in a nice way] imo). so i soldered those connections together, and i put a toggle switch on it. so my automatic assumption was maybe that those wires were coming a loose.

 

just yesterday, after sitting at a uphill light, my fuel pump start to cut on and off... then when i went to put it into gear, it crapped out on me. started it right back up, and after idle, put it in gear again.... stalled! it did this a number of times until i was finnally able to put it into gear, and i raced to my friends shop i use. hit a light, and when i came to a stop, it stalled again...

 

after diaog... there was no power to the switch, and so there was no power to the pump. i ran a battery to the fuel pump and it cut on immediately. (all wires were good back there).

it started to get late and i didnt feel like messing with it, but i noticed that the pump (in the on position of the toggle) would only cut on if i tugged downward on the wires from the fuel pump connection located under the steering column which led to the ecu. if i pushed the wired back up, it would shut out... all wires are properly insulated and look good. maybe if im up to it, i'll try to tear it down and see what exactly is going on.

 

doesnt answer any questions, but just an example of a similar instance. could it be that my ecu is going "bad". or could it be that there is simply a loose wire in the mix that is typical to go out after time...

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Please let me know how you solve your problem. I'm still having the same problem, however I will change out my ECU with a known good one to see if that solve my problem. I went thru and cleaned all of my injector connectors due to some corrosion. I performed the same bench test on my fuel pump, and it worked, so we do share the same problem.My e-mail is hypetyme@earthlink.net

 

Tony

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im pretty sure its simply (in my case) a loose wire leading to the ecu. they really did a crap job wiring these cars. i've just been too lazy/occupied to attempt ripping out the wiring again.

i drive it everyday...

there is a cluster of wires just below the clutch pedal spring that lead to the ecu. those are the same wires that get power to the fuel pump. if that series of wires is out of place, the pump doesnt cut on, but by simply pulling them down slightly, the pump cuts on, and operates properly, as long as those wires stay in that position...

so my guess is simply a loose wire in the mix...

 

im almost ready to park the z this summer unfortunately, because i have too many other priorities arising.

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urgent concerning 76 280z: quick question. under the steering column (right side), there is a small box (maybe 2" x 3"). there is two connectors (one above the other), i think the top connector relates to the fuel pump (i think that is my problem). if you know what piece i am talking about, does anyone know what that part is called (i dont have my haynes handy...)

 

 

 

 

need to know today... my car has been impounded b/c it crapped out on me completely. i knew what the problem was in relation to, but was a lazy pos and procrastinated... the car was towed because my registration was bad, need to get the car out today, but it is still not drivable.

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yea it was the fuel injection relay. i thought it might have been a "fuel pump relay", but parts didnt match. so then i asked autozone to look up the injector relay, and i dont think they knew what i was talking about. but thanks for the info, my problem is solved... how are you tony hambric?

 

btw, temporarily i have been (still am) running a hard copper wire directly from the battery to the pump. i found that she runs better that way (slightly richer). i was thinking about threading the line to a switch and fuse for permanant use.

 

these questions are for anyone of course, but since daeron joined the discussion, i'd most like to here what he has to say?

 

1. What affect does this have on the car and related parts?

2. is there any risks involved by doing this (excluding the switch)?

3. would i be able to bypass and or do w/o the efi relay?

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