ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts

[danc]

Thought I would share a few lessons-learned so far on my 1983 ZX conversion using the MSA mounts with a SBC and 700R4. I'm generally pleased with the quality and fit but have a couple of lessons learned: There is less than 1/8" between the oil pan (Goodwrench Fastburn 385) and the rack and pinion housing. Some minor dimpling with a dolly on the oilpan solved that problem. The A/C hoses coming thru the firewall had to be bent about 20 degrees towards the passenger side to clear the valve cover. No mention in the MSA info, and it would have definitely been better to know that before I dropped in the engine in. The transmission mount template did not even closely resemble the driver's side bracket in my transmission tunnel but you can still get a general idea as to what needs to be done. Other than those minor problems, the quality and overall fit is good. I'm using Hedman Tight Tubes, and have the same problem on the drivers' side as "advertised" by several others. Again, thanks for the excellent forum/info sharing.

[Guest zmaize]

I'm pretty new here, but this is the first successful 83 conversion ive heard of. Does your car have digital dash? Does the ac work? Power steering still works? Did you use a nissan or gm p/s pump? Are the msa mounts worth the money, or could they be easily fabricated?

 

That should be enough questions for now

 

Let me know because I'm planning a 327 sbc for my 83zx, and i would like to keep p/s and digital dash(not as important) if at all possible.

[danc]

Zmaize:

I'm still a long way from "successful". My drive train (used the NEAPCO (part # N2-2899-1 GM to "Z" driveshaft adapter)) is finished including the shifter (used a B&M Megashifter 82-92 Camaro Console model)which fit surprisingly well using the the stock Z console. I'm having the exhaust system done week after next (2 1/2" into 3" flowmaster "Y" connector back to a 50 series flowmaster deltaflow. My 83 has a digital dash. I don't see any reason why it won't work after recalibrating the tach and hybrid GM/Z speedo cable. I've also talked to a couple of mechanics who share that belief. The other gauges are Ala the Jags That Run manual. I have been told it will not be an easy task to convert from digital dash to anolog factory or aftermarket gauges. I'll pursue that later as a refinement. I believe the mounts would be easy enough to fabricate, but in my case, it was something I didn't want to deal with for $225. I would buy them again. I elected to go with all GM accessories, and based on all the guys on this forum who have already been there, believe they will all work O.K. too. I am planning on using A/C, but won't get to that until at least next fall. Used most of the other stuff that's already been tried: 85 non-HD Camaro radiator, Black Magic 150 elec fan, Painless 700R4 lockup, etc. I'd be happy to give you the grocery list of piece parts after I make sure they all work out. I also bought a 1988 Caprice COP car and I actually made a few bucks after getting all the accessories, brackets, driveshaft, transmission core for $250 etc. I would go that way again too. I've done quite a bit of research in addition to the excellent info on this forum, but most guys who suggest buying the JTR conversion manual do not speak with forked tonge. A substantial portion does not apply to the ZX Per Se, but the concepts and overall philosophy are most valuable. I would also suggest a JEGs and SUMMIT Racing cataloge for piece parts. It can be done for a whole lot less I'm sure, but at 90-95% "spent" I have around 7K invested with mostly new parts ($3900 for the GM Fastburn 385). I'd be happy to keep in touch with my success in those areas I might be able to offer some insight. My best advice on taking the current ZX drivetrain out is to take your time and label the wires by component. Unless you are a wiring whizz (which I'm not) it's easier to discard the uneeded wiring as I've hooked various components up (except the fuel injection harness which you won't need). JTR recommends a "Z" manual, and I would echo that 100%.Good Luck.. Run Fast... Jump High..

Dan

[danc]

Here are a few more lessons learned for the ZX guys. My 83 has power Rack&Pinion, so not sure how much of this applies to other set-ups but: The Hedman Tight Tube fit very well on the passenger side, but had to be

"Big-time" modified to fit on the drivers side. Ended up with more of a fire wall exit shorty with the steering shaft running between the rear tubes. This set-up is very different from what some of the other ZX guys had to do. The rest of the exhaust worked out well with 2 1/2s into a flowmaster "Y" to single 3" back to a flowmaster with 2 1/4 outlets. PLenty of ground clearance, and only had to slightly "massage" the floorpan over the axle).Used a Sawsall to enlarge the opening in the rear pan a bit, but after a little clean up and paint, it looks like it belongs there!

The other significant note at this point (close to, but still not running yet) is hood clearance (or the lack there of). I have a "medium" rise Goodwrench Intake Manifold (part#12496820)with a K&N 14" 3" tall element. While it does barely clear the hood, it won't when the engine moves around ANY. The other real issue is hot intake air/lack of air to the intake. I wanted to keep the car as stock looking as possible, while getting maximum fresh/cold air (already bought the ZZ430 "Hotcam" and 1.6 Rockers to take the Fastburn 385 to 430 H.P.) The solution I came up with is to cut out a portion of the center raised area in the hood skin to form a cowl induction scoop with a piece of old chevy hood. It ended up being a little over a 2" inch opening at the cowl. Same principle of a 69 Camaro Z-28 hood, but it looks great because it's a very gradual slope and a subtly exagerated form of the original hood contour. If anyone is more interested in these 2 areas, or has any questions about other piece/parts I've used so far,let me know..