danc

As I mentioned earlier, I have a functional push button starter with a 40 amp relay, push-button starter switch (Honda S2000) and it has been working for the last 3 or 4 years.

80LT-1 Appreciate your response. By the way, your car is looking great.. I've watched your posts and you've done a nice job on the conversion.. Sent the wheels to have them widened 1 1/2" and plan on starting with the 235x70x15 to see how they look in terms of raising the rear end of the car. If it doesn't look disproportionate or funny-car-like I might go with the 255 70s which are another 1 taller. I also have the Eibach springs. Think mine are the "sport" version which does lower the car and inch or so. I have the Tokico Illuminas on the back and like the combination and ability to adjust the shocks...

Frosty383 I got tired of dealing with start or not and installed a pushbutton in the dash a couple of years ago. I'm sure I have the poor-boy wiring diagram around somewhere for the relay.

Appreciate the response. The 235s will fit without issue, but the 255s are another 1" plus taller putting them 3+ inches larger in diameter over stock... I have a set of 275/60X15 on the rear of a 40 Ford Pick-up and would have preferred the 70 series if available. I can make up a jig using plywood to measure all dimensions, but was hoping someone had already been there...

I'm planning on having my rear rims (Turbo) widened from 6" to 7 1/2". I'm looking at Weldcraft in Plymouth, Michigan to do the work and have a couple of questions for someone who might have already been down this road. Firstly, does anyone have any experience with Weldcraft, good or bad, and secondly how much room do I have in the rear wheel well using the stock suspension geometry. I would like to use BF Goodrich Radial TA 255X70s, but 235X70 would also work O.K. I've read a number of posts over the years but haven't been able to find any this time around that specifically address my questions/issues. Appreciate any help.. Thanx Dan

My 280ZX Conversion has been running now for 7+ years. The JTR "Z". manual was very helpful in understanding the overall swap in addition to electrical specifics. It would also be very helpful to have a Z service manual (Haynes is O.K. but the factory manual is better in my opinion). I made a 17 May 2001 post "ZX SBC Conversion using MSA Mounts" which included a laundry list of piece/parts I used for mine. I'd be happy to answer any questions once you have done more research.. Good Luck Dan

I agree that it is a very nice looking hood. I've been trying to find a cowl induction hood myself. Any suggestions on where to look??

They may, but suggest you take a look at what is out there in the search threads to find out for sure what does work. I'm using Heddman Tight Tube "D" ports for my 83 with Power Rack and Pinion (with the left side having to be modified for the steering shaft).. I have also posted a "grocery-list" of other items that worked for me. Good luck..

I also used a Lokar. It's been there for 6 years with no problems...

turbo81racer: I have an 83 with a SBC/700R4 combination putting-out an honest 430 Lbs of Torque and 430 H.P. that has been running since 2001. After the initial sort-out I've had zero problems.... and a lot of fun. I made a post of various piece-parts dated 5/17/2001 (ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts). If you have any questions of would like some photos just ask.. Good Luck Dan

I made a post dated May 17 2001 04:26 PM Subject: ZX SBC using MSA mounts. (just checked and it's still there). There are some lessons learned on various piece/parts for an 83 that has Power R&P; including the driver's side hedder. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to provide any help I can. My car has been running now for 6 years, is reliable and runs in the 11s. There are also a few photos on the "Album".. Good luck..

I'm using a right-hand-side mount alternator bracket out of an 88 350 CI Caprice Cop-car with "Fastburn 385" Vortec Heads..

I have an 83 SBC ZX and am running a Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger. I too used a Lokar throttle cable. Been running about 5 years with no issues. I would suggest chamfering the edges of the cable housing/nut and lubricating with graphite before installation though....

aso846: I'd have to agree with Paz8 on this one. I installed a complete Ron Francis wiring harness in my 40 Ford Pick-up and it took a lot of time. The steering column (Camaro) was a pain and I'm still having problems with a turn signal short.... Does it start with the key on and a remote starter switch (Sears has them for cheap) on the solonoid?

aso846 I have an 83 /SBC that had starting problems. Do the lights work? Do the gauges and warning lights "energize" when you turn the key on? Does the solonoid "Click" when you try to start it? Do you have a good ground from the engine to the frame rails? I would echo the suggestion to re-check the wiring connections. If they are all O.K. then use a multi-meter and check for voltage at the starter and trace back to the point you don't have voltage. You will need some help to check the ignition in start position. If you are getting voltage to everything except the starter you might want to consider by-passing the factory starting circuit and installing a starter button with a relay. I went the all the steps I've suggested to you and followed advice of the good folks on this forum with no luck. Mine would start intermittantly but usually not when it "counted"! The starter button took care of my problem 2 or so years ago without another incident.

I'm using Heddman TIght Tubes with the passenger side fitting with no modifications. Driver's side was modified to fit around the steering shaft.

Forces: For your info...

Forces: I'm using a B&M Megashifter (700R4 console model for Camaro/Firebird) and it looks factory in my 83ZX. I've been using it for 5 years now without any problems. The design on the shift indicator cable sucks on mine (broken twice), but perhaps they have improved it in the last few years. Summit has them... Good luck... Dan

I'm in the same category in not having much of a clue on the backspacing/fitment. I have an 83 ZX and plan to have the factory turbo wheels widened by 2" and run a 245X60X15" tire. Do you know if this will work simply by adding the 2" to the inside of the rim???? Appreciate any insight...

I'm running a GM PP Crate ZZ430 with the Vortec Fastburn 385 heads and had the same problem with the Bowtie Aluminum valve covers. Big time oil blow-by using ONE vented valve cover. Put the PVC valve in and the problem totally went away. Before that, I regularly "raised' the Dipstick on high RPM runs!

I had the same problem and installed stage 8 on Fastburn 385 Aluminum heads in 2004. No problems since....

I'm running a 700R4 in an 83 ZX using the B&M Camaro/firebird console Megashifter. It looks factory, but there were little annoying asthetic things about it that are just poor engineering/attention to detail. As an example the shift indicator plate rattled; as did the reverse shift "T.".. I fixed both of those minor things and it works great..

I have been running a 700R4 Bowtie Overdrive Level 2 (2500 rpm stallspeed)in an 83 ZX for over 2 years with an honest 430 HP and Torque. Other than the short first gear, I like the trans a lot. I did have a short/bad experience with my first 700R4 the was supposedly "built" to handle the torque/HP. I would have definitely considereded a 200, but had already had the 700R4 trans mount and driveshaft so I elected to go to a better 700R4. I'm sure you guys are right about being better/stronger transmissions out there, but it works fine in my application. Having said that, I'd have to clarifty my use and the fact that the 245X60X15 BFG radial TA tires light up pretty easily, so there isn't a lot of stress on the other drivetrain components.