danc

As I mentioned earlier, I have a functional push button starter with a 40 amp relay, push-button starter switch (Honda S2000) and it has been working for the last 3 or 4 years.

80LT-1 Appreciate your response. By the way, your car is looking great.. I've watched your posts and you've done a nice job on the conversion.. Sent the wheels to have them widened 1 1/2" and plan on starting with the 235x70x15 to see how they look in terms of raising the rear end of the car. If it doesn't look disproportionate or funny-car-like I might go with the 255 70s which are another 1 taller. I also have the Eibach springs. Think mine are the "sport" version which does lower the car and inch or so. I have the Tokico Illuminas on the back and like the combination and ability to adjust the shocks...

Frosty383 I got tired of dealing with start or not and installed a pushbutton in the dash a couple of years ago. I'm sure I have the poor-boy wiring diagram around somewhere for the relay.

Appreciate the response. The 235s will fit without issue, but the 255s are another 1" plus taller putting them 3+ inches larger in diameter over stock... I have a set of 275/60X15 on the rear of a 40 Ford Pick-up and would have preferred the 70 series if available. I can make up a jig using plywood to measure all dimensions, but was hoping someone had already been there...

I'm planning on having my rear rims (Turbo) widened from 6" to 7 1/2". I'm looking at Weldcraft in Plymouth, Michigan to do the work and have a couple of questions for someone who might have already been down this road. Firstly, does anyone have any experience with Weldcraft, good or bad, and secondly how much room do I have in the rear wheel well using the stock suspension geometry. I would like to use BF Goodrich Radial TA 255X70s, but 235X70 would also work O.K. I've read a number of posts over the years but haven't been able to find any this time around that specifically address my questions/issues. Appreciate any help.. Thanx Dan

My 280ZX Conversion has been running now for 7+ years. The JTR "Z". manual was very helpful in understanding the overall swap in addition to electrical specifics. It would also be very helpful to have a Z service manual (Haynes is O.K. but the factory manual is better in my opinion). I made a 17 May 2001 post "ZX SBC Conversion using MSA Mounts" which included a laundry list of piece/parts I used for mine. I'd be happy to answer any questions once you have done more research.. Good Luck Dan

I agree that it is a very nice looking hood. I've been trying to find a cowl induction hood myself. Any suggestions on where to look??

They may, but suggest you take a look at what is out there in the search threads to find out for sure what does work. I'm using Heddman Tight Tube "D" ports for my 83 with Power Rack and Pinion (with the left side having to be modified for the steering shaft).. I have also posted a "grocery-list" of other items that worked for me. Good luck..

I also used a Lokar. It's been there for 6 years with no problems...

turbo81racer: I have an 83 with a SBC/700R4 combination putting-out an honest 430 Lbs of Torque and 430 H.P. that has been running since 2001. After the initial sort-out I've had zero problems.... and a lot of fun. I made a post of various piece-parts dated 5/17/2001 (ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts). If you have any questions of would like some photos just ask.. Good Luck Dan

I made a post dated May 17 2001 04:26 PM Subject: ZX SBC using MSA mounts. (just checked and it's still there). There are some lessons learned on various piece/parts for an 83 that has Power R&P; including the driver's side hedder. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to provide any help I can. My car has been running now for 6 years, is reliable and runs in the 11s. There are also a few photos on the "Album".. Good luck..

I'm using a right-hand-side mount alternator bracket out of an 88 350 CI Caprice Cop-car with "Fastburn 385" Vortec Heads..

I have an 83 SBC ZX and am running a Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger. I too used a Lokar throttle cable. Been running about 5 years with no issues. I would suggest chamfering the edges of the cable housing/nut and lubricating with graphite before installation though....