chris51881 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 so i got my CMC today. i ordered the Wilwood setup with optional remote reservoir from Hinson. i also got a banjo bolt and an adapter line so i could hook it up to the t56 plug-in. the adapter plate in the pictures came from Hinson also but it is for a 240 and doesn't fit. Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder: http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-479-wilwood-master-cylinder-78.aspx LSx hydraulic line: http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-763-new-lsx-v8-hydraulic-line.aspx 3/8 banjo bolt: http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-689-banjo-fitting-bolt-38-sae-washers.aspx its was an easy setup. i just had to drill 2 new holes so i could bolt the CMC in place. theres a jointed bolt to connect it to the pedal. i would wait to put the reservoir on the top (unless you are going to use it remotely) until you get it in place so you can get a wrench in for the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Awsome! Great information... Looking good as always and keep it up! Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 so i just got my Patriot heads and ARP head studs and connecting rod bolts. i cant wait to get these on. heads studs connecting rod bolts the heads are CNC ported, 5 angle, 64cc (good for 10.5:1 compression), 243 cast (LS6), and flow 304cfm at .600 lift 304cfm seems a little underrated though because they claim 65cfm over stock flow and stock LS6 heads flow about 260cfm at .600 lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 fuel injectors came in today. i got 42# SVO Ford green tops. they are a direct replacement. same height, same plug-ins. injectors i also got a fuel rail adapter so i can put a regular fuel line on there from the filter. (the blue piece in the last picture) adapter to take the old injectors out you need to remove the clip from each. then each injector needed a little force to come out. i touched a little oil on each o-ring just so they would slide back in easily. i found a good how-to but this guy used EV6 Blue Giants from a Cobra. he needed an adapter kit but mine fit perfectly. How-To Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 28, 2009 Administrators Share Posted July 28, 2009 Awesome! Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 i got the "while i'm at it" bug a little and went to Auto Zone and picked up: intake manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets simple install. i just took a hook pick and pulled out all the gaskets, cleaned out with a paper towel where they were, then pushed in the new ones. the foam under the intake was a little stubborn but nothing i couldn't handle. minor upgrade for under $45. there is a before and after of each here. the new intake gaskets are red and the new valve cover gaskets are blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Can you post a pic of the complete engine bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Can you post a pic of the complete engine bay? do you mean as it is or after i get the engine back in? im currently building the engine, just ordered the cam 2 days ago. i started welding all the seams a few weeks ago and then went on a vacation so ill be picking back up with that shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 i put in my connecting rod bolts and my head studs. theres a link to both on post #43 of this thread. the new 12pt ARP rod bolts are slightly longer. the tiny instruction sheet that comes with the ARP's is hidden with the moly lube. they call for 45 ft/lbs of torque and to do it 3 times on each bolt. the head studs get hand tightened in with an allen wrench. make sure the bolts holes are clean and dry. you can get this air tool with the extension or i heard you can use a can of spray air from office max. slowly but surely... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) cam install, finally! i went with a custom grind CompCam from ThunderRacing.com based on a few specs and needs i gave them over the phone. there is a picture of the lift/duration specs of the cam. i basically followed a how-to write-up at LS1HowTo.com for an f-body i found. i just skipped the beginning steps because they were working on the engine with it still in the car. Cam How To everything went smoothly with the exception of the crank bolt. you need a lot of force to remove that. make sure you have a 24mm socket on a super long breaker bar (like 6ft or so). since im working on an engine stand i had to bolt a length of metal to where the flywheel was so the engine wouldnt turn while i removed the bolt. the piece was long enough to touch the brackets of the engine stand. once that bolt was out i used a 3-arm puller and removed the pulley. make sure you have a decent pulley puller. i bent both the types AutoZone had to offer. then i removed the water pump, timing cover, oil pump, and timing sprocket. the cam slid right out (since there were no lifters in prior to removal) i cleaned the cam well with brake cleaner (inside and out) and oiled it up good before installing it. it went in easy but just as the how-to says: the cam should go in with no effort, dont force it. turn it as you slide it in. the lifters i got from GMPartsDirect.com were LS7 lifters (part #12499225). i let them soak in oil for a few days first. we put them into the plastic holders before we slid them back into the engine because they are keyed and will stay in the right place when you insert them. sorry no picture there, i was covered in oil at this time. im waiting on my double-roller timing chain and ported oil pump to arrive to finish that up. i did get a set of gaskets from AutoZone though. the picture shows the timing cover gasket, water pump gaskets, oil pickup o-rings and the round gasket the sits behind the crank pulley in the timing cover. $35 for the set. Gasket Set we cleaned the pistons and area around with brake cleaner so the head gasket would sit flush. the ARP head studs called for a different torque than the stock bolts. 80 ft/lbs on the 10 large ones and 22 ft/lbs on the 5 small ones (15 studs per head). there is a picture of the bolt pattern at the bottom of this page: head bolt torque pattern finally we replaced the intake. starting to look like an engine again!! Edited August 29, 2009 by chris51881 adding part number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 do you mean as it is or after i get the engine back in? im currently building the engine, just ordered the cam 2 days ago. i started welding all the seams a few weeks ago and then went on a vacation so ill be picking back up with that shortly. Either or really. I'm trying to gauge the fabrication needed compared to what I've seen so far. If you've done a test-fit, a bare engine bay pic would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_z32 tt Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 how did you/are you going to mount the gearbox are you going to use the stock mounting holes?? my motor/gearbox and all should be going to the fabricator soon to get everything put in place and just want to know what other people have done. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Either or really. I'm trying to gauge the fabrication needed compared to what I've seen so far. If you've done a test-fit, a bare engine bay pic would be great! took a few pics today... hope this helps. the 2nd last pic shows how i cut into the wiper tray. not sure this was necessary but it definitely helped with the hood clearance. the LS6 intake i have is right up against it. i dont know if that intake is physically bigger than the standard LS1 intake though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 how did you/are you going to mount the gearbox are you going to use the stock mounting holes?? my motor/gearbox and all should be going to the fabricator soon to get everything put in place and just want to know what other people have done. thanks im not sure if this picture helps but when i get there im going to cut the sides off of the stock mounts and put a "u" shaped piece between them. this will go around behind the trans so i can hit the factory t56 bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 the long awaited (6 weeks) timing chain and ported oil pump arrive. (apparently Manley had a defect in the timing chains and were being sent back so i had to wait) Manley Double Roller Timing Chain LS6 Ported Oil Pump there is also another option for a timing chain / oil pump package: Timing Chain Option basically i followed a nice write up on GMHighTechPerformance.com : How-To my pictures show the progression. since the cam was in already i didnt show that here but i found TDC on piston #1 as per the write-up and then lined up the dots on the pulleys. the oil pump comes with spacers and new bolts that sit nicely. i installed the new timing cover gaskets and replaced the cover followed by the new water pump gaskets and the pump. i mentioned the gasket set a few posts back. ill finish putting the pulley back on when i can find a torque wrench that'll go up to 220 ftlb. i dont want to spend that much $ on a wrench if i can just borrow one from somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 i got a SPEC stage 3+ clutch and had my flywheel resurfaced at a local shop. the setup comes with a slave spacer, a new throwout and a new pilot bearing. they claim the 3+ will handle almost 1000ftlbs of torque. SPEC stage 3+ clutch the directions specify that you must replace the pilot bearing (shown in pic). the best thing to do is go get a pilot bearing puller. i made the mistake of trying the hydraulic removal method by packing the area behind it with grease and hammering a dowel into it. DO NOT DO THIS!!! there is nothing but a thin cap behind the pilot bearing called an oil galley plug. mine got pushed right into the crankcase and it was a mess. after the pilot is out tap the new one in with a deep socket. then the 6 flywheel bolts go in. i put a temporary bolt through one of the holes around the rim of the flywheel that was long enough to touch the block. this was so it didnt turn when i torqued the bolts down. next is the pressure plate, make sure the side that says 'flywheel' is facing the flywheel. followed by the clutch, line that up and torque it down. make sure to take out that temporary bolt if you used it. since i separated the bellhousing when i took it off i just put that back on first. the kit i got came with a slave cylinder spacer that goes behind the slave. theres only 2 bolts in there but you have to take the throwout off before the slave will come off. if you turn the throwout while pulling it that helps. put the spacer behind the slave and bolt it in, put the throwout back on and dont forget the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsuz32 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Got a question, I notice every swap cuts out the firewall/tranny tunnel, i have read a bunch of info on z32 ls1's , but has anyone actually tried a gto pan? I've seen it mentioned, but never seen why it wont work. I see that every 240sx ls1 swap runs a gto pan, and some don't even modify the crossmember, but i figure if you did a tubular crossmember, trimmed the gto pan you could sit the motor pretty far back till it hits the tranny tunnel, hammer that bitch and get it as far as possible w/out cutting the fire wall. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/732970-nissan-240sx-s14-modded-gto-pan-tons-pics.html ^ is a good example of what i'm talking about. Are you planning on keeping ac? I'm trying to figure out if i can have a dd 6.0L iron block z32, but ac is a requirement =[ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Got a question, I notice every swap cuts out the firewall/tranny tunnel, i have read a bunch of info on z32 ls1's , but has anyone actually tried a gto pan? I've seen it mentioned, but never seen why it wont work. I see that every 240sx ls1 swap runs a gto pan, and some don't even modify the crossmember, but i figure if you did a tubular crossmember, trimmed the gto pan you could sit the motor pretty far back till it hits the tranny tunnel, hammer that bitch and get it as far as possible w/out cutting the fire wall. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/732970-nissan-240sx-s14-modded-gto-pan-tons-pics.html ^ is a good example of what i'm talking about. Are you planning on keeping ac? I'm trying to figure out if i can have a dd 6.0L iron block z32, but ac is a requirement =[ this is probly the best thread on here for any fitment questions: BRAAP's mock-ups the top of page 2 addresses the GTO among other LSx oil pans. im not familiar with the differences in size between the 240 bay and the 300 bay or where the rack sits in each but it looks like that guy you linked to had the same areas cut out of the GTO pan as BRAAP has detailed in his thread. it may be possible to do it, if you can do the fab work. i suppose that either way you go theres fab to be done. theres 3 things id be concerned about with moving the engine up so you dont have to cut the firewall: 1) the throttle body is so close to the hood even with it moved back. the last picture in post #32 of this thread shows where my throttle body was sitting after i had the motor positioned (with cut firewall). 2) the shifter comes up almost perfect with it set back in the firewall. if you move the engine forward it mite not fit right without an extension. (see picture right before the throttle body picture) 3) the farther back the engine is, the better geometry you have. im not sure if a few inches will really harm anything though. heat and a/c are both gone. i might be able to get it back in there but i would have to mod almost the whole system on both sides of the firewall. it isnt worth it to me. we dont need ac in ny and it wont be on the road in the winter. i know how florida is though... ac is a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsuz32 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 this is probly the best thread on here for any fitment questions: BRAAP's mock-ups the top of page 2 addresses the GTO among other LSx oil pans. im not familiar with the differences in size between the 240 bay and the 300 bay or where the rack sits in each but it looks like that guy you linked to had the same areas cut out of the GTO pan as BRAAP has detailed in his thread. it may be possible to do it, if you can do the fab work. i suppose that either way you go theres fab to be done. theres 3 things id be concerned about with moving the engine up so you dont have to cut the firewall: 1) the throttle body is so close to the hood even with it moved back. the last picture in post #32 of this thread shows where my throttle body was sitting after i had the motor positioned (with cut firewall). 2) the shifter comes up almost perfect with it set back in the firewall. if you move the engine forward it mite not fit right without an extension. (see picture right before the throttle body picture) 3) the farther back the engine is, the better geometry you have. im not sure if a few inches will really harm anything though. heat and a/c are both gone. i might be able to get it back in there but i would have to mod almost the whole system on both sides of the firewall. it isnt worth it to me. we dont need ac in ny and it wont be on the road in the winter. i know how florida is though... ac is a must. Ya i went through that thread, 240's have almost identicle placement when it comes to the steering rack/crossmember/steering colum, and have a even smaller tranny tunnel. I think I might be giving it a shot when I find a new na shell to mess with, I don't mind fitting a aftermarket hood, and it seems the shifter has a few options for lengths, i'm prepared to do some fab work, but i'm not prepared to give up ac haha. As for geometry, the car will be my daily with a hint of a road course car, but its not going to be a all out track car so honestly, where the motor fits it fits, also with moving it foward, if it interfers w the radiator, i will run a front mounted radiator and call it a day. Good luck with your swap man seems to be coming along nicley! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris51881 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Ya i went through that thread, 240's have almost identicle placement when it comes to the steering rack/crossmember/steering colum, and have a even smaller tranny tunnel. I think I might be giving it a shot when I find a new na shell to mess with, I don't mind fitting a aftermarket hood, and it seems the shifter has a few options for lengths, i'm prepared to do some fab work, but i'm not prepared to give up ac haha. As for geometry, the car will be my daily with a hint of a road course car, but its not going to be a all out track car so honestly, where the motor fits it fits, also with moving it foward, if it interfers w the radiator, i will run a front mounted radiator and call it a day. Good luck with your swap man seems to be coming along nicley! thanks dude. hey if you get that project started, set up a thread on here. im sure theres tons of people who would love to see it. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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