Replacing piston rings with the engine in the vehicle L series FAQ

[Phlebmaster]

I did this to my L16 in a 1973 Datsun 620 truck when my bottom end would give no more and I was in a pinch. Not the recommended way to replace the rings.....but when you have no other choice. (my first engine rebuild btw)

 

I did not pull the motor, So the tools I used were:

 

4" cylinder honing tool

 

Sockets: 3/8"= 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm, 10mm allen socket for the head bolts, swivel socket, 3" extension & 5" extension, spark plug socket.

 

Torque wrench 3/8" (long handle click stop)

 

Standard 3/8" ratchet (you all have seen these)

 

Piston ring compressor 4"-7"

 

Pully puller (for the main pully)

 

Tie rod separator (for removing the steering tie rod)

 

Piston ring plyers (I never figured out how to use this one)

 

Screwdrivers, flat and phillips 4" & 6"

 

Scraper for getting the old gaskets off.

 

Plastigage

 

Feeler guage for measuring end gap and ring clearance.

 

Micrometer for measuring tolerances.

 

I think that was it....I may have used a couple of other common tools.

 

I also purchased a engine gasket kit with everything. It was better than not having what I needed.

 

I used the Permatex spray copper gasket stuff as well as the ultra copper and ultra black gasket makers.

 

Piston rings and rod bearings.

 

I purchased standard size rings and bearings. But that was because I measured the cylinder walls, pistons, and crankshaft journals for tolerance.

 

Lucas oil stabilizer and assembly lube.

 

Quakerstate with slick 50.

 

New oil filter and fuel filter.

 

Get a compression tester to check compression before you start and after you complete the rebuild to make sure everything is good.

 

I did most of my shopping for parts on Rockauto and tools I got from Harbor Freight Tools. The total cost for me was around $225.00 for everything...including the beer. lol

 

I had her finished in 10 hours including breaks. I hope this helps someone else.