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Replacing piston rings with the engine in the vehicle L series FAQ

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I did this to my L16 in a 1973 Datsun 620 truck when my bottom end would give no more and I was in a pinch. Not the recommended way to replace the rings.....but when you have no other choice. :mrgreen: (my first engine rebuild btw)


I did not pull the motor, So the tools I used were:


4" cylinder honing tool



Sockets: 3/8"= 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm, 10mm allen socket for the head bolts, swivel socket, 3" extension & 5" extension, spark plug socket.


Torque wrench 3/8" (long handle click stop)



Standard 3/8" ratchet (you all have seen these)


Piston ring compressor 4"-7"



Pully puller (for the main pully)



Tie rod separator (for removing the steering tie rod)



Piston ring plyers (I never figured out how to use this one) :lol:



Screwdrivers, flat and phillips 4" & 6"


Scraper for getting the old gaskets off.





Feeler guage for measuring end gap and ring clearance.


Micrometer for measuring tolerances.


I think that was it....I may have used a couple of other common tools.


I also purchased a engine gasket kit with everything. It was better than not having what I needed.


I used the Permatex spray copper gasket stuff as well as the ultra copper and ultra black gasket makers.


Piston rings and rod bearings.




I purchased standard size rings and bearings. But that was because I measured the cylinder walls, pistons, and crankshaft journals for tolerance.


Lucas oil stabilizer and assembly lube.


Quakerstate with slick 50.


New oil filter and fuel filter.


Get a compression tester to check compression before you start and after you complete the rebuild to make sure everything is good.


I did most of my shopping for parts on Rockauto and tools I got from Harbor Freight Tools. The total cost for me was around $225.00 for everything...including the beer. lol


I had her finished in 10 hours including breaks. I hope this helps someone else.

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