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Replacing piston rings with the engine in the vehicle L series FAQ


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I did this to my L16 in a 1973 Datsun 620 truck when my bottom end would give no more and I was in a pinch. Not the recommended way to replace the rings.....but when you have no other choice. :mrgreen: (my first engine rebuild btw)

 

I did not pull the motor, So the tools I used were:

 

4" cylinder honing tool

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Sockets: 3/8"= 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm, 10mm allen socket for the head bolts, swivel socket, 3" extension & 5" extension, spark plug socket.

 

Torque wrench 3/8" (long handle click stop)

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Standard 3/8" ratchet (you all have seen these)

 

Piston ring compressor 4"-7"

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Pully puller (for the main pully)

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Tie rod separator (for removing the steering tie rod)

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Piston ring plyers (I never figured out how to use this one) :lol:

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Screwdrivers, flat and phillips 4" & 6"

 

Scraper for getting the old gaskets off.

 

Plastigage

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Feeler guage for measuring end gap and ring clearance.

 

Micrometer for measuring tolerances.

 

I think that was it....I may have used a couple of other common tools.

 

I also purchased a engine gasket kit with everything. It was better than not having what I needed.

 

I used the Permatex spray copper gasket stuff as well as the ultra copper and ultra black gasket makers.

 

Piston rings and rod bearings.

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I purchased standard size rings and bearings. But that was because I measured the cylinder walls, pistons, and crankshaft journals for tolerance.

 

Lucas oil stabilizer and assembly lube.

 

Quakerstate with slick 50.

 

New oil filter and fuel filter.

 

Get a compression tester to check compression before you start and after you complete the rebuild to make sure everything is good.

 

I did most of my shopping for parts on Rockauto and tools I got from Harbor Freight Tools. The total cost for me was around $225.00 for everything...including the beer. lol

 

I had her finished in 10 hours including breaks. I hope this helps someone else.

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