proxlamus© Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 Oh its crazy easy with a air chisel.. it knocks off fairly large chunks at once.. just sucks the chisel is so small. Seems to be more time consuming with a heat gun and scraping.. no thanks.. I dont want to stand there for 10 minutes heating and scrape away using a section the size of the chisel. As for dry ice.. how large are the chunks that pop off?! The toughest part is getting through all that nasty OIL that accumulated on top of the undercoating.. sticks everything together. The chunks are much smaller when covered and saturated in grimy oil. Here is an idea how large the chunks are that pop off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 If you have those little bits that won't come off, take a propane torch to them until they start to bubble a bit, then let it cool and hit it with your wire wheel. Works on the bottom too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Not that it is any fun working with tools in the cold but being in Colorado in about one month you could open your garage door in the morning for a few hours. Then you will not need the dry ice only the hammer. I used the cold enviroment to my advantage on this process it definetly helps. Another option that is not very enviromentally frendly and is extreemly messy and smelly is soaking rags in diesel fuel and then let sit on the tough spots. Diesel will eat asphalt under coatings. After all that hard work mine went to the bead blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 If you have those little bits that won't come off, take a propane torch to them until they start to bubble a bit, then let it cool and hit it with your wire wheel. Works on the bottom too. Just use a puddy knife when they are still hot. Keeps the wire wheel from getting gunked up and they peel off like budda'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niner11 Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Hey, I just stripped my engine bay using a paint strip wheel from eastwood. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/removal/poly-x-paint-and-rustremoval-disc-4-5in-cup-style.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Just use a puddy knife when they are still hot. Keeps the wire wheel from getting gunked up and they peel off like budda'. Mine turned powdery and didn't gunk up the wheel at all. But mine is a 70 CA car, so that crap was a little older and exposed to more dry heat in it's life I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Just use a puddy knife when they are still hot. Keeps the wire wheel from getting gunked up and they peel off like budda'. Propane torch and HD putty knife worked for me. Mineral spirits worked good on the residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Despite the mess it looks like I'm sure you will love it when its done. Please post pics of the frame rail and sub-frame connectors if you are installing them, I'm looking to do it in the near future and you seem to get some good photos with that rotisserie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 +1 for the heat gun and paint scraper method. I tried it out on the coating on the inside of one of the fenders, with the heat gun at about 900 degrees, it only takes a few moments to heat it enough to make it soft and easy. It made it so the project only lasted about 15 minutes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHADY280 Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 yup heat from a propane torch, and i used a sharpened wood chisel, they are stiffer than putty knives, and can be bought in a set with different widths. ive done 2 cars now, and used por-15 on the second one and truck bed coating on the first, both being a good option for re-coating the bottom. with the both i used epoxy primer to seal the bottom first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Nothing stings quite so bad as brake cleaner in the eye. I beg to differ! Carb cleaner hurts more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 Did I mention, that stripping a car is the worst thing I've ever done?! Prepping for seam welding is horrible. stripping paint on the inside of the car is horrible. sandblasting at home is horrible. Spend the money, tow it to a shop, let them blast it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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