sqweekykneecap Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 i used the search button don't worry BUT, i could not find what im looking for in my particular situation. hey guys, i have a 260z, l28et swap edis-6 MS2 w/ relay board 81 280zx turbo alternator tried following this diagram, http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm and this diagram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html to get rid of the external voltage regulator. mind you both articles are for the 280z. i was following the haynes manual also, my eyes were hurting after staring at the microscopic diagrams in the book. problem is, the car will not turn off with the key while running, ALSO the alternator will not charge my battery. although, from out side sources, IE) jumping from another car, it does hold a very good charge, so it is not my battery. ive tried many ways to wire up the 6 wires for the old external voltage regulators (in those articles), placing diodes between the yellow and w/r wires, cathode toward yellow, but the other 4 i dont know what to do with those. (the articles are different for my application) now, the 260z is tricky with this, especialy being that i have gotten rid of the coil and ballast resistor, this most definatley plays a key part. in addition, having a loose key igniton on top of all of that. does any one have any suggestions on how i can fix the no charge problem, and the failure to turn off while running problem? for my 260Z? thanks for looking guys looking for some :icon15::icon15:'s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 You did not add the needed diode between the "L" terminal and the harness. Otherwise, there is a current leak that keeps the ignition hot. Yes, it's only on the 260Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqweekykneecap Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 thanks for the post man the more the better! BUT, diode is installed from the yellow to the white and red wire. the L terminal. cathode is towards yellow. "ive tried many ways to wire up the 6 wires for the old external voltage regulators (in those articles), placing diodes between the yellow and w/r wires, cathode toward yellow, but the other 4 i dont know what to do with those. (the articles are different for my application)" mind you i did follow the chart http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm but that didnt work either. then installed the diode inbetween the L and the S.. yellow and W/R no charge and still no shut off! weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 I was hoping that SOMEONE would get that to work. I tried it on 2 different 260Z's and never could. I ended up with a diode on a wire from the starter. I just thought that I must have made a mistake. I wonder since you're seeing the same thing that someone needs to ask for corrections at AtlanticZ and at ZcarCreations? You only need 12V on the "L" terminal to help the alt get things going so any temporary 12V source will work. Just a brief 12V from even a switch is enough to trigger the alternator to start putting out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqweekykneecap Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 today, non stop datsun work! (got out early wee) so, all in all i installed a switch on the edis power. the switch is in the cabin. i just cut the car off by killing the spark. and i installed the old internal voltage regulator. now it the alternator charges fine. soon im just going to install a low gauge wire from the alternator to the battery, and bypass all the stock bull chit! and hook up the L terminal and the old N terminal to the IG switch. so yep. also, being that im not using any stock fuel or spark or air, some of the wires need to be trimed out STAT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdawson Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 I belive that the diode should be between the Black/White and the White/Black with the cathode end on the W/B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqweekykneecap Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 thanks for the reply man! going to try that most def! ill let you guys know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Well? did the diode work? If it did, can you documnet what you did on each wire, as if a retarded person (me) was reading it? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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