Corzette Posted October 25, 2002 Share Posted October 25, 2002 Grumpy, just wanted to say thank you very much for your help. I just recieved the rear cap in tact. I will install this weekend. I should have more new pics up next week at my site. Hey do you have a PAYPAL address that I can send you some money on. I feel bad accepting this for free.... CorZette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 25, 2002 Share Posted October 25, 2002 if you must spend money buy your wife a dozen roses , she might like them , Im glad to help! and no I don,t want nor will I accept money for helping you out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 26, 2002 Author Share Posted October 26, 2002 OK everyone heard that right..I tried to pay but Grumpy says no! Thanks Grumpy, you are one in a million for sure. I think I am now motivated to do a good deed for someone on this board as well. I have a set of front over fenders that someone was wanting that I think I will give away. Afterall they are doing me no good! Thanks Grumpy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 2, 2002 Author Share Posted November 2, 2002 Grumpy, I hate to say it but the cap didn't work. It seems like the cap has been ground a little too much. When I put my bearing in it, the bearing sides stick out about 1mm or so. This of coarse make the fit WAY too tight. The bearing in my original cap sits flush on each side. Any suggestions? I will mail this one back to ya, maybe someone else could it. Oh the pain, the pain.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 I once had to replace a main cap on an engine and it also, like yours, was not a perfect match. The reason is that the other caps are machined from the factory as a set. When you replace one cap that didnt originally come w/the engine-you will either get extemely lucky and find a cap that fits close enough to perfect....or you will have to do what most people do & align bore your engine mains: this way all caps will fit properly. Unless someone else knows of another solution-you are pretty much stuck to the align boring of the mains. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 I just re-read your post....you are not talking about the ends of the bearings protruding/pressin in on the journal itself; you are actually talking about the sides of the bearings(?), yes/no? So then, what you are saying is that the bearing width is wider than the cap width? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 2, 2002 Author Share Posted November 2, 2002 No I mean when you put the bearing in the cap, it is not a flush fit on top. My other cap is flush. This one sticks out maybe 1mm or so. Do they need the entire block to align hone the rear cap or can I take the two caps and tell them to match them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 Originally posted by corZette:.., sticks out .., Forgive me for getting hung up on this; but when you say "Sticks Out" are you referring to fore/aft? It is not usually adviseable to only grind one cap down-it is always best to match all caps to each other. This way you dont have to worry about a spun bearing or a scarred journal. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 2, 2002 Author Share Posted November 2, 2002 Kev, sorry, I dont how else to say it I guess. I just found out that they can not do alighn honing here...WTF? They showed my how to use a porting tool and sanding pad etc to get the cap to fit. I have to put it on and check the markes where it hits the bearing, then take out the bearing and sand down the cap in that spot a little at a time until the crank will turn freely. Sounds like a scary thing huh///Be glad your not me...because I have to do this to MY CAR!!!! Damn this sucks butt-ox. Ill keep all informed as this is the first time anyone has probably done this.....Im pissed, I cant put my engine back together until I get this thing settled. CorZette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 So it is the bearing ends where the two halves butt up against each other that are not flush with the bearing cap where the bearing cap is flush w/the upper engine where they are bolted on? Well, I know you can do it (do the sanding/honing ect) yourself; just take plenty of measurements along the way. I sympathize with you but I am also glad I am not you. Maybe this will give you a piece of mind; I had a friend who had a friend that was really tight on their budget. His engine spun a bearing. This guy pulled the crank out-sanded the bearing down himself w/emory cloth & measured the crank then to be .010" under. This guy then cut a spacer "FROM A BEER CAN" to match that of the main cap-drilled the oil hole & then bolted everything back up. Believe it or not-the engine ran for another two weeks: long enough to get this guy to his next paycheck for a down payment on a used car. Just said that to say this: you can do it-I've seen your website & know you are very resourceful. As you're grinding/sanding-dont just take four measurments-North,South,East & West, but also take measurements within those four measurements-hopefully it will work out! I cant believe that there is a Nation in this world that doesnt have a machine shop that doesnt also have an align boring machine? Good Luck! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 3, 2002 Author Share Posted November 3, 2002 Kevin, thanks for the encouragement. Well I put magic marker (red) on the bearing, put it in the cap and tightened it down just a little. Then I turned the crank, it only catches on about 1/4 of the turn. I then took off the cap and looked at the bearing...wholla, the only place where the marker rubbed off was on the left upper side of the cap bearing. I guess now I will take off the bearing and sand behind it on the cap and replace..then start all over again. I will do this until the crank moves freely. I have an air porting tool with MANY attachments so wish me luck!!! Let you all know how this turns out... By the way, here in Japan, when a car is no longer running, they just junk them or replace the engine with one from a junk yard. There are some machine shops, but none that I talked to had an align bore machine...pretty much just milling and boring machines only...cars are very dispensable here. I don't suggest bringing one over here for a total restore unless you have the parts to bring with. However, this cap thing is a freak accident and none of this would have happen if the fricken oil pump bolt cap hole didnt blowup when I torked the bolt down. I really hate cast iron....oh well all is well. I order the air porting tool from www.northerntools for $29.00. They want $120 here. Greedy $&^*!!@#... Thanks again Hybrid brothers!!! There will be a V8 Z here in Okinawa soon!!! CorZette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted November 3, 2002 Author Share Posted November 3, 2002 By the way, does anyone know the proper torque for the oilpump bolt? 65ftlbs? CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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