lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Greg. The other thing to look at is that the pulleys are already as close to the brackets they can go so you could only space them out and to me that would make things worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Greg. The other thing to look at is that the pulleys are already as close to the brackets they can go so you could only space them out and to me that would make things worse. The one thing I noticed after watching a new belt at Idle was that it looked like it was starting to curl-up on the inside of the alternator pulley and after about 10 minutes had started to fray the first inside rib of the belt. Now the Alternator and the balancer are what I would think the only constants as they are stock. I did not use the metal rod bracket that bolts to the intake manifold and the top bolt on the accessory mount on the alternator. I had this bracket on the first LT1 motor and it started to fray as well so it seems it doesn't matter if it is attached or not. I never got to drive that motor before the rod bearing spun. Without hacking up the engine covers you can't use it anyway. I will pick up another belt today, $16 at AutoZone and try the straight edge washer shuffle on my home made idler pulley plate when I get back from LA. I'll post my results. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 Greg, I'll do that test and see what I get. The alternator, balancer and the AC delete are the constants because they all are grooved.. But the lateral location of the AC pulley can be spaced out a bit but I think that would make it worse I believe. I put 48 miles on a new belt today and I see no damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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