pcs_russ Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Hey guys, thought I would post my experience of the Racelogic traction control system. I don't post often so to review, I have an RB26 powered 260z that makes 490whp on pump gas and pretty much spins anywhere below 90mph. We installed one of these on my brother's SR20 510 and worked better than we had hoped so I got one for my Z. I had few issues getting it working but its installed and does an excellent job keeping the car from getting away from you. Here are a few pointers for anyone looking to install one of these. 1. The most important things are wheel speeds. If you don't already have wheel speed sensors here is what to look out for: Racelogic's sensors seem to work well and have a handy led on the side of them for setting the air gap. The sensors are very finicky and must be mounted solid. No flimsy bracket will work. The Air Gap has to be kinda tight so make sure your trigger points don't flex under hard cornering. In the front I used the 12 brake rotor bolts with a bracket bolted to the old dust shield holes. (see picture below) For the rear I was lucky to have a diff with the speed sensor already on it. I just made a plate to replace the original sensor with the one from Racelogic. The system will work with only 3 sensors (2 front, 1 rear) if the rear sensor is on the driveshaft. The wires that racelogic use are very small and can be difficult to work with if your not use to them. I was not able to use the supplied sensor connectors because I couldn't push the terminals in them. I tried silicone spray ,heat, and a small pick to push them in but no luck. So I used my own Deutsche connectors and discarded the others. Once the system is installed use the software logging to test the wheel speeds for drop outs. Test them at high speed and when cornering. If one of the wheels speeds misses a signal it will cause a cut that can be mistaken for a misfire. 2. One drawback to the racelogic is it will ONLY work with high impedance injectors. Also, you will need to get to each injector individually. If you have 2 or 3 injectors running off a single output you will need to have them connected together before the racelogic. When wiring into the Injectors make sure you have a bypass plug. Sometimes its hard to tell if you have a wheel speed problem and you will need to bypass the Racelogic to test it. I had a sensor intermittently dropping out at speed and took a while to find it. 3. I highly recommend the Digital Adjuster. It's very useful for changing your launch rpm, checking you wheel speeds, and switching between wet and dry modes. 4. Hook the traction control box, digital adjuster, and sensors up and test them before installing it. On my brother's car the Digital Adjuster would not communicate with the traction control and had to be returned to racelogic for a firmware upgrade. Took 3 weeks to get it sorted out. On my system one of the wheel speed signal wires was shorted to the shield and wouldn't work. Had to cut open the supplied splice and fix it. Only took about 2 hours to figure out. 5.On my brother's SR20 the default injector cut tables worked great. On my car the cut tables barely slow the car down. I had to get aggressive with the cuts to stop wheel spin in first gear. Also, we had to increase the turning speed difference to stop sporadic cuts when turning sharply. The system allows more slip in a straight line then when cornering. There are also Wet and Dry settings. The system has a few quirks but overall it performs very well. I can now feel safe letting someone take my Z for a spin. Its nice to be able to just step on the throttle and let the system figure out the rest. I can't tell you how many times I've had my car unexpectantly turn sideways on me. My latest was at the drag strip when after about 6 runs the car decided to take a concession stand break at the 1/8 mile going 90mph on street tires. Obviously the car would be faster if your not relying on the traction control but the added safety is comforting and I can always turn it off. I opted for the launch mode. I'm still working with it to determine the best RPM for launch. The clutch in my car makes smooth launches on street tires difficult. My brother's 510 is simple... engage launch mode, step on the throttle, release clutch and go. pics of install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted December 10, 2009 Administrators Share Posted December 10, 2009 Ah, it's coming together. Your brother is batfastard on the510relm... http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=12071 Nice cars What does Racelogic interrupt? You mentioned injectors. Anything else? Can it be configured to throttle a motor conventionally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcs_russ Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 Ah, it's coming together. Your brother is batfastard on the510relm... http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=12071 Yep, his car is coming along nicely. Should be ready to strip and paint in a few months. Nice cars Thank You. What does Racelogic interrupt? You mentioned injectors. Anything else? Can it be configured to throttle a motor conventionally? It interrupts the injector signals. Cutting out complete events. They have an adapter to do ignition instead of injectors. It has no provision for shutting the throttle. Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I wish you were closer Russ. I still haven't got the RB/Tec3r running like it could.... I'd love to let you have it for a weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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