KAZU Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 The car is running! I replaced an old DTA P8Pro ECU with a Link G4 Xtreme. It took a month to figure out the correct ignition/trigger sensors setting. Now engine runs fine with a genuine Nissan crank sensor. Test drive has done. Priority is chassis modification not the engine. I felt some difficulty in clutch pedal control because of Tilton clutch and lightweight flywheel. Next, the brake pedal w/o booster feels like pressing the floor. I am realized that I do not necessary to feel the brake pedal stroke during braking, it is better to try to press the seatback with my hip. Then wide-opened the throttle several times. Boost was lost because the silicone hose popped out. I liked the rear multilink with the GT-R LSD diff. Exterior is sleeper but the fuel pumps are too loud to be sleeper. I am already hacked the Toyota fuel pump controller pinouts. Link ECU has several flexible PWM AUX outputs so it can send the signal to the controllers. Isolating the fuel plumping with cabin is also required in highway use in Japan. If not, the car does not pass the inspection. Metal work has finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Good to hear! Glad you like the multilink. I'm doing something like that too. So you are using a PWM out from the Link to step the pump voltage to they are quieter when less fuel is needed? I have used pump controlers before, but never for noise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have used pump controlers before, but never for noise! For what other than noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 For what other than noise? Power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 High caster adapters, tension/compression rods and LCAs were fitted. Mustang Bullitt wheels are replaced by a set of polished R33GT-R wheels. A taxi got tail ended by me:p I pressed both brake and gas pedals. So pedal plate of the gas was relocated by an inch toward the right. Two good news. MXL dash logger finally shows the engine parameters again. I figured out a wiring mistake in RS232C TX /RX connection between MXL and Link G4 ECU. Also I found current bridge in vehicle speed pulse wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Still a very cool build. Any damage from the accident? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Fortunately only engine hood was damaged and repaired with sliding hammer, body filler and rattle can paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Front under panel, made by 1/2" plywood. Engine oil keeps leaking from the oil pump. My car is usually as slow as stock 260z because I rarely find the positive boost in the pressure gauge. Finally I found something hidden in the inlet side of intercooler. A plastic bag. I put it in the piping during maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegnaZetr0 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 great build! the r33 wheels look much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Front under panel, made by 1/2" plywood. Engine oil keeps leaking from the oil pump. My car is usually as slow as stock 260z because I rarely find the positive boost in the pressure gauge. Finally I found something hidden in the inlet side of intercooler. A plastic bag. I put it in the piping during maintenance. Haha as long as it didn't harm anything that's the best fix ever! Removed plastic bag and problem solved usually the problem turns into a much bigger pain then that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Haha as long as it didn't harm anything that's the best fix ever! Removed plastic bag and problem solved usually the problem turns into a much bigger pain then that. I made critical mistakes on this engine. Exhaust cam was dialed completely wrong timing and tried to start it until the engine oil was saturated with gas, 30-minuntes-idling without the water pump pulley belt, oil filter plumping was the reversal direction, etc. I am very lucky man because just only a problem, oil leak from oil pump or the oil gallery plug on front side of the block. BTW, a temporary grill cover was made from aluminium sheet. I'll test this if cooling capacity is efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PR280z Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Kazu, I think i`m going to try your grill setup, and just do a little modification on it. Thanks for the idea on the grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Kazu, I think i`m going to try your grill setup, and just do a little modification on it. Thanks for the idea on the grill. No problem. It was easier to make than I thought. I went to drive it. Finally it runs under full boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) I saw the video below and decided to remove my front ZG flares upward quite a bit. Previous position. removed all but a rear end rivet and rotate the flare upward. After cutting the metal fender, wheel can be relocated out by extending the LCA. Gap at the front end was filled with pieces of flare. Pic clearly tells why I had to cut metal fender. The 17" tire is as high as the stock fender edge. Edited May 14, 2011 by KAZU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nthiogen Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Wow! That's an insane build! Can't wait to see it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Outstanding Build!! Mongo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) Looking good, I like the little extension you made to cover the front wheels. Edited June 5, 2011 by jakeoster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegnaZetr0 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Front airdam came out great! Nice build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) Because of the floor mount pedals, I place the seat at rearmost position with extended steering column and bent shift lever. I hate the arc of the shift knob because the motion center is still in the trans. Fixed the problem with an old stock of short shift kit for BMW. Now the shift lever pivot is in the pocket of choke linkage. Ergonomically improved. I am going to put dry sump system. Starting materials are L28 ARE pan and genuine RB26 pan. But I am not sure such shallow oil pan is necessary. LS7 has regular shape of oil pan Edited June 11, 2011 by KAZU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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