Drax240z Posted October 13, 2000 Share Posted October 13, 2000 Just a few questions for those of you well versed in bodywork. I'm not looking for a perfect $5000 paint job here, just a refresher for now. 1) Should I strip down to bare metal, or is it acceptable to paint over old paint? (with sanding of course) 2) If I strip, what chemical strippers work for things like undercoating? (inner fenders) 3) Once down to bare metal, how long until I need to prime/paint? (to avoid surface rust) Thanks. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 13, 2000 Share Posted October 13, 2000 Drax, I dont know anything about body work but the fella that is going to paint my car told me do NOT strip the car down to the bare metal...at least not the body panels. He advised that since it is the original paint on the car it would be difficult to get anything to stick as well as the original coat of primer. He stated that he will sand the car down to the primer. As far as the engine bay, underside of the car and interior - they will be sandblasted then coated with POR 15. Someone on this forum mentioned www.autorestorer.com the other day. I checked it out and there is a great deal of information on bodywork, repairing rusty panels, etc... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 13, 2000 Share Posted October 13, 2000 Is this por-15 stuff really as good as everyone says it is? I ordered some because everyone I've talked to says it's what they'd use to cover the floorpans. My floors are covered with light surface rust and I want to clean and paint them to keep the from rusting through at some point in the future. So do I just sand the rust off and ladle the por-15 stuff on generously? Everyone says it won't come off anything and is 100% waterproof. I know less than nothing about bodywork and painting, so oh well ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 13, 2000 Share Posted October 13, 2000 Just how hard is it? I mean, I hope it's a bit flexible and whatnot so it can flex with the body? It's not gonna crack and stuff when you hit a big pothole or something and the floors flex a bit, will it? ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 13, 2000 Share Posted October 13, 2000 It's a moisture cured urethane, which means it has some flexibility. I don't think it's very flexible, but slight movement of the panels should no make it crack off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 14, 2000 Share Posted October 14, 2000 Morgan, I have not used any of the POR 15 myself. Mike Kelly has some on his car and I believe Pete used some as well. From everything I have read this stuff sounds like a great product. It will not absorb moisture as other coatings will. Over on the Autorestorer web site some guys praise products called Zerorust and Ras-O-Nil (I believe that it what it is called). Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 14, 2000 Share Posted October 14, 2000 I have no long term use experience with it, but I really like how hard it (POR-15) is and how it seems to seal out moisture. I bruch it on parts these days instead of using a spray bomb. It's pretty tough, but be careful that you have a rough surface for it to bite into. ALso watch out for self life. After you open it, it will start to slowly cure in the can. It will do this before you open it also. Either Hirsch Automotive (who sells Miracle Paint - much like POR-15) or POR-15's make says to not try to hold on to it for longer than 6 months. Actually the best thing to do is poke holes in the top and pour through them, putting some duct tape over the holes when done. IF you take off the lid, and get some on the edge and then put the lid back on, it will glue the can shut. Poking the holes works fine. I pour out what I'll need into a margarine container or a paint can lid and use it from there, making sure to tape over the holes right away. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 If you do decide to sand/strip down to bare metal, buy a few cans of that rust to primer stuff(spray is easiest) and immediately lightly coat all bare metal with it. Otherwise you will get flash rust. And yes, I am speaking from personal experience. Then shoot primer over it as soon as you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayG1988 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 8 year old thread...it's great you're trying to help but I'm retty sure he already panted his car years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 Ha!! You'd think so, wouldn't you? At that time I just ended up doing the engine bay. It wasn't until about 4 years later that I actually painted the car, and that was rattlecan at that. I'm still awaiting the "good" paint job. 1st photo is from 2000 when I squirted the engine bay... still blue to this day. 2nd photo is from 2004 when I rattled canned the car... still black to this day. Engine did end up getting cleaned up a lot though. (pic 3) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 How do the newbies even find these old threads? Over and over and over again... If they're clever enough to find the "search" field/button - you'd think that it wouldn't be such a stretch to figuring out that a question asked 8 years ago might be a bit out of date. I don't get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essdeezee Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Well mull, although the OP might not need the information, people preparing to use the product (me) can really use the information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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