Guest Anonymous Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 Hi, First, is it true that the 240z has such thin sheet metal that it sometimes gets 'wavy'? i was thinking of painting my z black, but someone said it would make the waves stand out more. next, on my hood the paint has cracked and chipped away, and i can see about 3 or 4 layers of paint, very thick. i really want to dip my the body in acid then repaint it from the start...but i have been told many times it is not worth it, and too expensive. how much is this job? has anyone done it? if not acid, would u guys recommend any other way? i really dont want to put ANOTHER coat of paint on my z, it already has too many IMO. but what would a job like that cost me? thanks for any info guys, mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 Take it to a competant paint stripping place. Most of them have alot of different mediums they can use that are less invasive than acid. I've seen paint removed from a soft drink can without denting it. Good luck with it, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 but, do u knwo about the 'wave' thing? if i take the paint off i dont want to open a can of worms, you know? how much does a strip and repaint usually cost anyone? thanks so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 Paint is cheap. Quaility is pricy when I had my car blasted it was about $600 and that was with me removing the trim and chrome I could have taken it to MACCO for a cheap and quick paint job for about $700 (this would be fine for a race car or a street car that won't go to shows) I ended up paying almost $5000 for a show car paint with NO orange peel top of the line PPG paint with some cutom flames and pinstripes I'm sure you can find a happy medium that will fit your needs and budget. ------------------ rx7260z@yahoo.com Speed Power Performance& Style. What else is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 The waves in the sheetmetal don't come from stripping the paint; they come from trying to straighten a panel after the metal has been stretched by a dent. A competant body shop should be able to put it back straight--but time is money and it takes time to do it right. You want no filler at all? Then it's even more expensive due to the time it takes to shrink the metal with temperature. Stripping all the paint off is expensive IMO, but maybe worth it depending on how "perfect" you want the car to look. It may need much less attention and work then you think--talk to a number of body shops and make your decision after you find out what it takes to get to where you want to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 Why not simply sand the car smooth and leave some of the paint below on? Seems like it doesn't have to be all or nothing - sand it down to get rid of any waves or dings but don't take it all the way to bare metal if the paint underneath is still mostly sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 I've been told by half a billion people that your best bet is to sand down to the origional paint/primer. It is stuck to the bare metal better than whatever else you may throw on it. On a car with tons of coats allready, you may have to strip. ------------------ Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 Black will show the most imperfections. Acid dipping will take off everything, including parts of the car where rustproofing is hard to get at (sills, rocker panel, frame rails etc..) and previous filler if present. Plastic, walnut shells, or other soft medium is a better alternative IMO since the operator can control where the paint is stripped. Leaving any previous filler saves time from having to reshape also. Starting from clean metal is time consuming and costly. It really depends on how much you want to spend and what condition your existing shell is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 I recently got my Z painted black, when i bought it was in terrible condition not garaged, i payed 2200 for the black paint job but they sanded it to the original primer and painted from there, obviously black is the worst for imperfections but check your body, you should know where the imperfections are and filler and fix that, thats what i did, marked all the imperfections with a black pen before sending it to the body shop, and i still havent found anything wrong yet...although i still have to do floor panels and engine bay, but the exterior is flawless... -Chase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 If you want to take the old paint down to the original primer, there is a product called "Peeler" which is made by Klean Strip--it's a clear coat and base coat remover. It does one heck of a job--just spray on and blow off. I have used it and like it. I'm not sure what happens when you find body filler under your paint, though. Might have to think about that one... I purchased the stuff from a local paint automotive paint shop, but it should be available elsewhere. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 I used Aircraft remover, found at auto parts stores. Then switched to some other kind I got at Home Depot cuz it was easier to brush on in thick coats than to spray it. Total cost was about 60 bucks done in 2-3 weeks with a couple of chemical burns... I stripped down to the bare metal, good thing too cuz body filler was hiding holes and dents and rust spots. I ran a magnet over the body before stripping it to locate those spots. If the magnet doesn't stick, theres something wrong under the paint. RX7260, you would recommend Maaco for a basic street car? I don't want to spend more than $1000. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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