jacob80 Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Like this one, too: which leads me to another question, will I need to tap threads into that port on the compressor housing for my external wastegate boost signal? I took off the internal wastegate actuator and discovered that all it is is a hole with a rubbeIr o-ring to seal it. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 tap it or we can weld it shut and you get your boost reference from somewhere else. it's up to you really. for that particular turbo, i'd suggest you send me the entire turbo for our work to ensure the fitment is proper with that compressor housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Okay, sounds good. Do you have an email I can email you at, or a website? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Here is what I want done: 1. Im having G Pop Shop balance my wheels and would like to rebuild the turbo myself and have the center section ceramic coated as well as the turbine housing. I would also like to have the compressor cleaned up and looking nice as well. 2. I would like that exact setup you have pictured. But, I would want that Tial 38mm wastegate, if you can guarantee I wont have boost creep Well, no guarantees, but how much success have you had? 3. Lastly, I would like the manifold ceramic/jet hot coated as well as the downpipe. So essentially, just as you have pictured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Here is what I want done: 1. Im having G Pop Shop balance my wheels and would like to rebuild the turbo myself and have the center section ceramic coated as well as the turbine housing. I would also like to have the compressor cleaned up and looking nice as well. 2. I would like that exact setup you have pictured. But, I would want that Tial 38mm wastegate, if you can guarantee I wont have boost creep Well, no guarantees, but how much success have you had? 3. Lastly, I would like the manifold ceramic/jet hot coated as well as the downpipe. So essentially, just as you have pictured. We do ceramic coating, we also do flow coatings if you wanted to coat the compressor wheel before having it balanced. You want the tial 38mm old school 2 bolt? or the MVS? ($20 difference IIRC, i fully encourage you to do the MVS). I'm about to close up for the day, but we should easily be able to accomidate you. I'll send you a PM tommorow morning or later tonight with a rough stab at pricing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Just a thought I had. Ceramicoating is to keep heat from going out of the heat source, as well as keeping it from coming in. Say you have heat building up on the inside of the bearing center housing. With the center housing coated, any cooler air outside of the center housing will not be able to extract heat as well as it could without the coating there. I could see having the turbine side coated to reduce heat coming off the housing. Doing so to allow for cooler air to help cool the center housing. But thats just what would make since to me. Maybe I am just overlooking something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 I see it as coating the bearing housing is resisting heat transfer from the hot exhaust to the metal housing itself, therefor keeping the housing and the bearings the the housing houses (LOL) cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I see it as coating the bearing housing is resisting heat transfer from the hot exhaust to the metal housing itself, therefor keeping the housing and the bearings the the housing houses (LOL) cool inaccurate. ceramic coating will do very well with radiant heat, but conduction heat from the two touching surfaces won't be hindered nearly as much. you also have to consider that the moving CHRA assembly generates it's own heat, albiet far less than the exhaust housing. the only real upside i see to coating the CHRA is asthetic/appearance, as most turbo's after seasoning on a street car have their CHRA's oxidize and look like poo. but the same account, if the objective is keeping it looking good and easily serviced, i'd suggest a clear annodizing, clear coat, or even using a flow coating, granted the flow coating is out of it's element and useless in it's intended design there. but it prevents corrosion and cleans up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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