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POR15 Application Question...


Mikelly

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I know POR15 really likes metal that has atleast a bit of rust on it, but I knocked the engine bay out over the weekend and took the majorety of it to bare metal, and except for a couple of pits in one frame rail, and a small amount of pitting in the firewall on the passenger side, there was no rust to speak of. My plan tonight is to put the 1st coat of primer and some filler over a few imperfections in the sheetmetal in the firewall...OVER TOP of the POR15 treated metal.. This should work shouldn't it? I really wanted to get a good coat of POR15 on everything before I started paint prep...

 

Mike

 

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http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Guest Anonymous

Mike,

 

I have heard that topcoating over cured POR15 is not very easy. It is non-porous so the paint has nothing to adhere to. POR15 makes a material for this purpose but I have been told it doesn't work very well, either.

The same person told me to apply POR15 and let dry until tacky, then apply your primer. Timing is key here. The POR15 and the lacquer based primer will be much more compatible at this stage.

 

I used this technique in my hatch area and it worked like a charm. My Z sits out in the weather and has been doing so for about a year with no ill effects.

 

I plan on doing this to the underside of my car whenever I get around to that point.

 

Craig

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Guest Anonymous

Mike,

 

I don't want to give the impression that I have used POR15 in a ton of situations. I have talked to several other folks that have used it in various ways. The "tacky" method seems to be the only way that keeps folks from reporting back with peeling paint. It also worked for me.

I would probably rough up the existing cured coat a bit with sandpaper and then proceed as you suggest with a second coat of POR15. It can't hurt and it does give some added piece of mind.

One fellow (I can't remember the name but he was a regular on zcar, I believe, before it got really bad) actually used POR15 and let it cure before topcoating. He followed that with some type of undercoating and then paint in the non-visible areas: inner fenders, rockers, etc. He reported back a few months later with all the stuff peeling off. Again, the only reports I have seen without negative results are from people who primered the POR15 while it was tacky. The topcoat can come at a later date.

 

Craig

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Well I went back over it with a 2nd coating of POR15 and then at the 3.5 hour mark I hit it with primer and got a good 1st coat on. I'll do some filler and more primer tonight and the rest of the weekend. I will be buying a new paint gun to shoot the POR15 under the car where the new floorpans and the exposed frame rails are, as well as inside the car in the same areas... And I will follow up as they advised...I remember reading about this, now that it has come up, and come to think of it, I have noticed some paint peeling on the front fenderwells that I did earlier this year... I'll be re-doing that area again...

 

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Guest Anonymous

Mike,

 

Keep us posted. I am going to be doing the same thing in the future. Try and document what you can here so we can search for it down the road. You know this will come up again smile.gif Are you just using a cheap gun or are you using POR thinner to clean it up after use?

 

Craig

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Guest Anonymous

I hear you, Mike. Harbor Freight has been my friend for some time now! Northern seems to have better quality. I, too, will use a cheap gun and throw it away.

 

Craig

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Cheap gun and toss when done...I'm actually gonna purchase an HPLV gun to shoot the front clip with, two guns actually, a main gun, and a detailer, both are gravety fed.

 

Northerntools.com is my friend...

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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