working on a wiring diagram

[crazyoctopus]

slight update on the diagram. It will change soon as I really dont like how the "ultimate kill switch" is looking. with the headers and exhaust coming in tomorrow i will be implementing this diagram very very soon

 

http://www.flickr.co...166214/sizes/l/

 

==wont let me post the picture... so here is the link

 

 

larger image http://www.flickr.co...166214/sizes/o/

Edited April 1, 2010 by crazyoctopus

[crazyoctopus]

yeah... that wont work.. i'll fix it in the morning.

[crazyoctopus]

here is the updated with geezer's relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome.

 

 

larger http://farm5.static....dfa414f76_o.jpg

 

once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

Edited April 5, 2010 by crazyoctopus

[geezer]

here is the updated with geezer's relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome.

 

 

larger http://farm5.static....dfa414f76_o.jpg

 

once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

 

 

I did not look at this latest diagram close enough before saying it was a good plan. I was pressed for time and just assumed that you followed the example in my diagram. You changed it up and compromised the Starter Relay circuit's protection. You have not made the distinction between Maxi fuses and Mini fuses. Take another look at the way I have Pin 86 and also because it is jumped, Pin 30 protected by a Mini Fuse in the PDC. Same as the Ignition Relay. The Starter Relay is only being used as a means to control the Starter Solenoid with a Ground. The Maxi fuse is intended to protect the downstream cable coming from the Battery and the Starter Motor only. The way you have it configured the Starter Relay and associated wire can go up in flames before the Maxi Fuse blows.

 

Take another look at my example diagram. Its a crude drawing, the Mini Fuses aren't labeled, but everythings shown to make the Starter circuit safe and reliable.

Edited May 12, 2010 by BRAAP
Edited out the REDUNDANT pic the poster forgot edit out!

[crazyoctopus]

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned.

 

for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

[geezer]

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned.

 

for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

 

Yes, just change the numbers. The reasoning is, Pin 87A can be utilized if you abide by the "in 30 out 87" rule. If you wished to incorporate the Fuel Pump Shutdown Relay I showed you, this comes in handy, as well as in many other circumstances.

Edited April 6, 2010 by geezer

[crazyoctopus]

updated diagram. fixed starter circuit, removed 5 terminal wiper relay and decided to go with a fast-off, when it comes time to look at the motor i may remove the relay all together, and the relays have been flipped to meet the normal 30-in 87-out layout.

 

 

larger image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4498464677_2382771c22_o.jpg

[geezer]

It is good to go, as far as keeping with your minimalist theme. If it was my car, I would use whatever extra wire was needed in order to separate the control side of the relay (pin 86) from the battery power (pin 30), using seperate fuses to protect, but it will work as is. A few more details will have to be kept in mind when you actually implement the plan. It would be a good idea to separate the bus bar (fuse feed), so the headlights high beams and low beams and perhaps the fog lights are derived/grouped from a dedicated Maxi Fuse. Look at any fuse box and you will see that the high amperage draw items have a dedicated wire and fusable link/maxi fuse connecting to the bus bar. Just something to keep in mind, instead of having 1-150 amp Maxi Fuse covering everything on 1 bus bar. That is something you can decide on when the components come together in the car. Each end device/accessory and length/gauge of wire used will have to be evaluated in order to assign the proper sized fuse for each. You can never go wrong by using too small of a fuse to start with. Good luck and I hope I was helpful.

[crazyoctopus]

in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using

 

 

so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout.

 

and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire.

 

This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay

[crazyoctopus]

i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one.

 

- modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present

- color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box

- different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock

- big visual change for routing.

- red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch

 

 

larger image found HERE

[hoov100]

If you can get you're hands on them, a a fusible link box and a relay/fuel block from a z32 would fit the bill perfectly for a custom wiring harness.

Edited April 27, 2010 by hoov100

[crazyoctopus]

true, and for those that are adding alot of circuits it would be nice, but my maxima fuse box and relay box should fit the bill just fine.

Edited April 27, 2010 by crazyoctopus

[TheMission]

Wow... amazing work! Relay Extravaganza!

 

I've been hammering out my own pictures trying to put my mind around wiring my z with an EZ harness, as the turn signal switch and wiper motor switch are fun to diagram and figure out, but man... this is some work you have going for you to build from more or less, scratch.

[crazyoctopus]

thanks! there are a few relays that really aren't THAT needed, but I wanted to have most of the switches ground switched instead of hot switched; and actually I will probably be adding one more relay to make the "sounds" circuit ground switched just to make it an even 10 in the relay box

 

couldn't have done it without the help of Martin, and Geezer though

[spacecase70]

UHH...... WOW!! I love your diagrams, so simple and easy for me to follow! keep up the good work

[crazyoctopus]

I am about to change the diagram to fit the Volvo engine and its ECU/EZK. I will also be changing the fuse block layout for clarity, as well as the relay location. With the addition of the ECU/EZK comes the change of how the kill switch gets operated.

 

here is a link that may help with the question that I have http://http://www.ssdiv.com/master.html and I am looking at wiring style #3.

 

in that diagram he has a taped wire going from the battery to the EEC (another name for the ECU I guess) to make sure that when the kill switch is activated the ECU will maintain the data that it has learned. My question to you all is if I there should be a 10A fuse between that and the ECU power? Or is there a better way to add a kill switch and still maintain the ECU's learned data? and if the ECU is going to get constant power I might as well also connect the stereo deck to it (or add another circuit) as well to make sure that the clock is correct.

[crazyoctopus]

updated

 

 

WIRING DIAGRAM REV13 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

[crazyoctopus]

updated with a better kill switch layout

 

 

WIRING DIAGRAM REV.14 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

[crazyoctopus]

changed how the relays are going to be wired because of how the volvo fuse block is laid out.

 

Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

lengths are determined from the firewall inlet port to the various components. i didn't measure form the fusebox because I don't know where I am going to put the fusebox and relay box

 

 

WIRING DIAGRAM REV.15 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

Edited November 3, 2010 by crazyoctopus