Lighting problems

[p-factor]

Starting just yesterday when I turn on the headlights I get headlights ONLY. No dash illumination, no marker lights on the sides, no tail lights (but brake lights work). Not sure if the turn signals are working or not(I *think* they do), and I'm out of town now so I can't check.

Sounds to me like the switch, since I'd doubt the dash lighting and tail lights would be tied together anywhere else.

Has anyone has this problem or have any suggestions?

[DeepV]

I have a gut feeling telling me that your switch is bad, try removing the steering column cover and toying with the switch. Check if the brown pcb looking board has cracks, it's on top of the box where the moving parts of the switch are located. Hopes this helps.

[leftover z]

I have a gut feeling telling me that your switch is bad, try removing the steering column cover and toying with the switch. Check if the brown pcb looking board has cracks, it's on top of the box where the moving parts of the switch are located. Hopes this helps.

 

 

I had the exact same problem. It was my switch. Cleaning it up didn't help, so I replaced it. Piece of cake, and everything works as it should. Even my horn started working again

 

FWIW, this issue has been brought alot in the last couple months, with some threads that have pics. You might try using the search feature Feces Occurs

Edited March 8, 2010 by leftover z

[T-Bone028]

Buying a new switch is pretty expensive and hard to come by. Rebuilding your switch is not impossible or difficult. There is a LOT of info on this forum that has addressed this common issue.

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

 

That link should give you a step by step on how to rebuild a combo switch.

 

Another thing to think about, is if you're blowing a fuse when you turn on your parking lights causing everything to fail.

 

The front turn signal socket can corrode over time causing a short, blowing the fuse, and knocking out your entire parking light circuit. The way Datsun designed them, they are not well isolated from moisture and debris, and the thin rubber grommet has most likely cracked and crumbled over the past 30 years allowing even more moisture to get in. I have replaced both my front turn signal sockets with some generic Ford 3 wire turn signal sockets in the past month after tearing apart everything in my car trying to find my short (a little stripping, crimping, and patience and they will fit, total cost $16). No cutting of the factory wiring, just a little ghetto ingenuity.

 

Also, it helps when you list what year your car is.

[ModernS30]

OK, for some reason or another it wouldn't post while I was at school. Jump a wire from the closest to you wire on the right to the farthest from you wire on the left. Do it with the switch on and the lights should be on. Do it with them off and the lights should be off. Solder it on and you are good to go. The tails and dash are tied together, who knows why. I did this on my car and it works just fine now.

[p-factor]

Also, it helps when you list what year your car is.

 

I keep forgetting that the year and model isn't on the profile info on the left, sorry.

It's a '74. (there...I put it in the sig!)

 

Jump a wire from the closest to you wire on the right to the farthest from you wire on the left. Do it with the switch on and the lights should be on. Do it with them off and the lights should be off. Solder it on and you are good to go.

 

I'm not quite understanding. What "closest to me" wire?

 

 

Thanks all, now I have to decide whose 'fix' is right!

Edited March 8, 2010 by p-factor

[ModernS30]

Ok, sorry duh. There is a little square box on top of the switch with 4 wires on it. You should experiment first to be sure you have the right to being you have a different year. For me those 4 wires the ones closest to me sitting in the drivers seat on the right and the one farthest on the left connected turns the lights on with the switch on and not with it off. It works as normal. It is hidden under the column cover. I will make a rudimentary diagram to give you the idea.

 

- = wire terminal.

 

(-) = Wires I connected.

 

(-) -

- (-)

 

I just soldered a wire between the two. Doesn't look factory, probably isn't the best idea, but it worked and it was free.

[leftover z]

I would definitely check your parking light fuse. If it's okay, then I'd bet it's the light switch. I got mine for $25 from DHP123166. Last time I checked, he had one or two more left. It cured my problem, and I didn't have to spend $125 or more for a new one. Or you could attempt to follow Modern30's advice. One other thing to check is the plug on the light switch. My connector was slightly melted, which is what caused my parking & dash light dilema. The ciruit board on the switch was fine. The rectangular wire harness plug was not.

[leftover z]

Here's a pics of my old light switch. Look at the "circuit board" to make sure all 4 wires are soldered on good and not corroded. Mine was fine, but if you look at the 2nd pic, you'll see my problem. I could have cleaned that up and reused it, but I had already bought & received my replacement before I took the light switch out.

 

After checking your parking light fuse, I'd pull your switch first and take a look at everything. A little cleaning might make your switch useable.

[ModernS30]

This picture will be good to explain what I did. The red and white one has a jumper wire running the the smaller of the two green ones. The one diagonal from it. (I think it has a blue line but don't quote me on that one of the 2 does I am not going to take my column cover off now I will take pictures tomorrow when removing my dash. I did a poor job of soldering since my 8 dollar soldering iron didn't get hot enough to melt the factory solder properly.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/monthly_03_2010/post-9446-12680975182292.jpg

Edited March 9, 2010 by ModernS30

[daddiodanger]

wiggle the fuse(right side, third from the bottom), the lights should come back on. It will get you by temporarily. oooo- use needle nose pliers to avoid being burned.

[T-Bone028]

Fuses...Thats another issue to think about that some other members alluded to.

 

The fuse box, has been known to melt near the parking light fuse because of the high current feeding all of those lights (dash, side markers, parking lights, etc). That could be the culprit as well. Hope you find your problem. It took me 3 weeks to finally find mine, and I'm not sure if I even "found" it. I rebuilt my combo switch twice, resoldered questionable connections, followed every single wire from the console to the fuse box, taped off wires that seemed to go nowhere, unplugged every single exterior light on the car, plugged everything back in one at a time, replaced both front turn signal sockets, installed relays, kicked a puppy, and finally got them working again without blowing the fuse...for now.

 

After you get your parking lights working again correctly, I highly recommend the "parking light relay harness" from MSA. It installed in less than an hour, and takes the load off of the combo switch. Its a worthwhile $40 investment. It should also help make your lights a little brighter. I would also install relays for the headlights or buy the headlight relay kit. Anything I can do to take stress off the combo switch is a good idea to me.

 

Both kits are actually produced by a member from classiczcars.com, I believe his name is Zsondabrain. Plenty of positive reviews and nothing like helping to support the community.

[JayBee280]

not sure if you found you fix yet. But i just had this problem...almost ripped my whole dash out trying to figure it out.....electrical connections just corrode after awhile...my best advice that helped me is BUY some electrical connection cleaner from your local autoparts store. clean up the connection from the alternator to the battery. unscrew the fuse box turn it over spray the electrical connection cleaner on the entire fuse box it drys quick so i did it 3 times. i even sprayed my combo switch. My lights came back even better then before.

[p-factor]

As is often the case, the simplest solution was the correct one. The fuse was bad. I checked it out before posting this thread and it looked fine, but on closer inspection the glass on the fuse was cracked all the way through. I guess one of my passengers that day accidentally knocked it, and since the fuse cover won't stay on, it broke.

No need to take apart the switch or any of that, it was just a simple fuse! Now I need to find a new fuse for the horn to replaced the one I scavenged.