JayBee280

hahaha nah but i do have a vid of me that same day reving to 8000 stock everything. and she still drove me home and to work the next morning

haha yea i guess it aint black. But the 280z is stock fuel injected 3-2-1 header and resonator delete. never been to the dyno

my 78 280z over the summer of 2010 infront of my brothers house and thats his moms 350z and its manual. <img src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs232.snc4/38921_1544448452469_1272742293_1466601_5054811_n.jpg" width="720" height="480" alt="Doublez" /> dblez.bmp

HAHA this post is funny...this guy only needs a simple answer. Here it is. Go to your local auto parts store ask for throttle body return spring. I had this same problem the gas pedal was extremly sensitive(sometimes hovering idle) this is not driver error. Its simply to sensitive for certain drivers and the way they like to drive. I even go better gas mileage because the tension on gas made it easier and more detailed from going to 10% throttle to 20% back to close then going 10% to 50% then close. I paid nomore than 3 bucks for it and it is well worth it.

I have a 280z L28 and i had terrible problems with a smelly exhaust. But beings the 280 was fuel injected i took the air flow meter and leaned out the fuel mixture and it completely got rid of fumes. One window down one up.....no fumes. both windows down no fumes. both up no fumes. Idle no fumes. I never have problems since then and my eyes used to burn sooooo BAD. But idk the correct procedures with working with SU carbs but whatever steps you take/took to get them tuned. lean out the fuel. And plus to make things every so better my car runs so much stronger through the rpm band. O and i have leaks and holes everywhere for fumes to be bad and they are no longer are present. I promise the results will be more satisfying weather you gain or lose any horses in the process.

The coil in 280's were not 12v they only work from 6-8v through the stock ecu. Get some Mass air flow sesor cleaner from your autoparts store. Spray the inside of the maf, let dry for 2-3 min start it see how it runs

check your spark plug wires and make sure they are going to the right ones. dont indulge into the hard stuff first the most simple items keep these engine running strong. trust i spent a month sorting out a starting problem just to find out my new plugs were foulded when flooded. most likely a spark issue since the items you change made such a difference in the way its running.

when it comes to cars and legality i believe florida is more lenient than any other. ive seen skylines being sold all over craigslist that have been florida driven/registered. but anywho i seen the link im most likely not gonna click on it. the gnose is already trying to grow on me.

coolant temp sensor for sure

check the fusible link for the battery to the alternator. you do have a wire running to your battery from you alternator right? you should.

Hey man dont get get scared your car is actually in great shape for the age its in. and its unmolested so dont junk it. And you have title. But anyways ill be in eastern nc next weekend i can come take a look at it. I know since your in the marines your either at cherry point or camp lejune i grew up at cherry point so thats where ill be and i frequent to jacksonville all the time. So ill keep in touch and i can come help you get it right before you junk it. I had the same couple of problems wit my 280.

you dont have to drain it just remove the hose clamp it or point it facing up so the fluid doesnt leak out.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html This is more than likey your problem. After years of sitting they build up all kinds of gunk. I drilled the whole filter screen out its been running great ever since. Im getting ready to replace my fuel filter again after running fuel injector and tank cleaner before every fill up the gunk gets up in the filter itself after a few thousand miles.

i just had to replace my studs go to your local auto parts store get the stud kit in the size that the guy above me like they fit great and they are local so....none of that ordering of any website they are overpriced in my opinion. but i just did that a couple days ago.

not sure if you found you fix yet. But i just had this problem...almost ripped my whole dash out trying to figure it out.....electrical connections just corrode after awhile...my best advice that helped me is BUY some electrical connection cleaner from your local autoparts store. clean up the connection from the alternator to the battery. unscrew the fuse box turn it over spray the electrical connection cleaner on the entire fuse box it drys quick so i did it 3 times. i even sprayed my combo switch. My lights came back even better then before.

ooooo you got me beat on that. that reminds me of chicago/great lakes kinda weather.

I gotta ask since the Ka24 is seemingly identical in certain ways....does anybody know if a Lightweight underdrive pulley for Ka24 work on a L series. Just wondering since the bolts line up on one side with the clutch and flywheel combos..what about the underdrive pulley....just wondering might buy one.

I want to buy this air dam the red S30 has. I seen it on a website for 140 just looking here for used undamaged one. Post pics if you have one and willing to sell under 140. If not dont post a reply.

IT WAS F***** BRICKS(COLD) THAT MORNING

wow you are usinging 89....ouch i feel it for the engine. I know the service manual say use 91 grade and in north carolina its either 93 or 89...so i go with 93 of course. Good thing figuring it out tho. helps alot for others

well i had a similar problem i drive 78 280z. Before i get on to what i did. Check your spark plugs. you should run copper plugs in that car. I put platinum spark plugs in my car hoping for the best....then got the worst 3000 miles later. They looked like they were 20,000 miles old. The copper plugs run much better. I went to autozone hoping to get some more platinum plugs until the guy told me copper plugs were recommended. well anyway First thing that happened to me was my car would run like crap it would idle below 700 rpm then shut off. on the fuel pump itself there is a filter screen....well heres the link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html. basically i removed the whole screen because it was gunk all in it...after that it ran and idle smooth like new. um and the relay issue...i had the same problem mine would flicker on and off sometimes cutting my car off. So what i did was cut the wires that ran to the relay. found a 12v positive power source. ran the positive to the switch grounded the negative wire and now i have a fuel pump on and off switch. my came with and on and off switch for something i dont know what for. But you can find switches and lowes or hardware store and they also have relays there that people use in homes. im not sure if it would work but i figure if you buy a relay with the right amperage/voltage whatever and run the wires you need you can probably replace the relays in the car i havent tried it yet. Just ran the switch it works perfectly. umm well if you dont get anything i just said than ask im more than welcome to help where i can.

i just moved to the concord area it would be nice to meet someone to explain and break it down to me. reading it is so much more confusing then hearing it

Im having this same problem on my 280z right now. The brake light switch is brand new my hazards blinkers work. no fuses are blow the relays are fine. I dont know where to look but im checking the schematic right now.