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l28et is running lean at w.o.t.


Ruiz Racing

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How do you know it is running lean? Can you give us some specs of your setup? I would start by replacing you fuel filters and checking your fuel pressure at the rail.

 

 

I work over nights just woke up. It has just been rebuilt.

 

100 miles on it.

timing is at 23 btdc.

82 distributor.

new cap and rotor. no change.

plugs, wires, and injectors on the way.

n42 intake. no egr.

mannual boost controller is at its lowest setting. 6.5 psi.

walbro fuel pump.

new filter

adjustable fpr started 30 psi. turned it up to 40 then 50 psi. no change in the way the car drove.

idles perfectly

narrow band o2. when the car was working it ran closer to rich. now at higher rpm ( above 2800or so), anything over 50% throttle it go straight in to the lean and sputters.

Edited by Ruiz Racing
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Why are you going WOT on a motor that only has 100 miles on it? :blink:

 

There are different schools of thought on breaking in motors, not everyone adheres to the 'be easy on it for 500mi' theory. I've had VERY good luck slowly working up the rpm's and engine braking down for the first 50mi, then changing the oil, then pretty much having at it.

Edited by letitsnow
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There are different schools of thought on breaking in motors, not everyone adheres to the 'be easy on it for 500mi' theory. I've had VERY good luck slowly working up the rpm's and engine braking down for the first 50mi, then changing the oil, then pretty much having at it.

 

I know there are many different opinions on the subject, but it is usually a good idea to go a few hundred miles, before putting any serious load on it. Whenever I break in an engine that I want to last, I always take it easy for the first oil change, then go through and re-torque the head studs and check the torque on the mains and rod bolts, while giving everything internally a good visual inspection.

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I break in an engine that I want to last, I always take it easy for the first oil change, then go through and re-torque the head studs and check the torque on the mains and rod bolts, while giving everything internally a good visual inspection.

 

 

I have also built a few engines for various applications. I've not had to check the mains or rod bolt settings before. Have you ever found a problem here or is it just piece of mind? :)

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I have also built a few engines for various applications. I've not had to check the mains or rod bolt settings before. Have you ever found a problem here or is it just piece of mind? :)

 

Never had a problem either, just piece of mind, knowing it's not going to come apart at 8000RPM (again)

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Never had a problem either, just piece of mind, knowing it's not going to come apart at 8000RPM (again)

 

I don't rev it passed 4,000. I think if i rev it to 8 it will blow up.lol I want to rev it to 8. Do you do with a turbo? I've givin up on trying to get my turbo engines to work at 8,000.

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