Zinpieces Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 The next step in my process was to get the steering figured out. I searched every post and sticky I could find related to power steering. For a variety of reasons I was uncomfortable modifying the front cross member and motor mount as many people seem to do. It may be fine but not my cup of tea. I sourced a rack and double U-joint from a Subaru Legacy and started playing around with it. My solution seems to work. The pictures should explain everything. The shaft support is made from a piece of aluminum buss bar that was collecting dust. The bearing is a Chevrolet pilot bushing. I still need to sort out hoses and pin the Datsun shaft to the U-joint, but the hard part seems to be under control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 Haven't posted any progress in a while, work goes on! Today I started fitting my new tail light panel onto the car and making the backing plates for the taillights. I used a magnet on the back of the panel to help position the backing plates for making the body cut outs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harlest Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Nice WORK!!! I'm really interested in this power steering setup your doing. Would you mind posting some more info on that? What year Subaru Legacy, How did you mount it to the cross member? Any Help on this is GREATLY APPRECIATED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks for the comment, but I did not invent this. If you search this site you will find that the Subie to Datsun rack is a well known swop. It is basically a bolt in. That said a Subaru is wider than a Datsun. fortunately the difference between the two is in the tie rods not the racks. I used Subaru outer tie rod ends NAPA part # ES3712 and Toyota inners part # ES2279R They have the correct thread pitch and allow for good adjustment. This is where I did things a little different from most. The common method of installing the Subie rack is to lay it back in the same way the Datsun lies. This connects to the steering shaft like a stock setup, it can cause problems with header clearance. The other thing that bothered me was having to clearance to left motor mount pedestal to allow for the larger power body. The stock rack has a small input that fits inside the motor mount. What I did was rotate the rack forward so the input shaft pointed toward the inner fender. Then I used a Subaru double U joint although you can use anybody's double U joint. The Datsun steering sector shaft from the rag joint can be rotated to follow the inner frame rail without any problem. Than I took some aluminum and made a pillow block to support the shaft and keep everything aligned. A Chevy input shaft bearing has the right diameter to support the shaft and is a roller bearing. I recessed the bearing into the block made a retainer plate to hold it in place. The I made a bushing from aluminum with a set screw to keep the shaft from rocking in or out. The pillow block is secured to the frame rail with thru bolts coming up from the bottom. None of my bends is over 30 degrees the wheels turn lock to lock with no binding. The plumbing is close to stock. You will have to make new lines easily done with a hand bender. I connected my rack to the power steering pump on my motor. Made easier by the fact that the ZZ4 Chevy crate motor has the power steering pump on the lower left side of the motor. The thing I like most about this setup is that the structural integrity of the motor mount is retained, and it has a nice clean look. I still have to groove one end of the shaft or weld it or pin it to the knuckle but that's about it. Oh yeah, I think the rack is from a '95 or 6 Subaru, but this site has tons of documentation on this swop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harlest Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks for the response! I'm on a search mission Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Today I fabbed up a box for my floor and then I put it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 My exhaust system was beginning to show the first signs of rust, so out with it! Then some sanding and some wiping down followed by several coats of high temp aluminum paint. Then I got the sudden desire to start doing some body work. Two hours later I had the rear and front suspension and the diff and mounting out of the car. The trans and motor are unbolted and will be dropped out next. Guess I am committed to doing some body work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harlest Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) Do you mind if ask what rate those springs are? And are they 10 inch or 12? Thanks Edited August 12, 2013 by harlest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 (edited) The more I stared at the HE distributor and the firewall the less I liked it. There is no real way to modify the JTR setback plates, but I really wanted the motor a little further forward. I decided to modify the crossmember to allow the motor to move 1.25 in. forward. Basically a new top plate and some boxing. I put the motor and trans back in and feel much better about the spacing. I also have room to install a smooth firewall. Satisfied that the fitment was good and there were no other issues I dropped the motor and trans back out. Gotta put the Z on the back burner now and get ready for Lead East this weekend! Edited August 27, 2013 by Zinpieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Today I had the guys from Mobile Blast Away over to blast the shell. They use a slurry of powdered glass and water that works incredibly well and will not distort even the thinnest metal. Then I loaded up the shell and took it to a friends body shop. Tomorrow I'll DA the shell and get some etch prime on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 The next step in my process was to get the steering figured out. I searched every post and sticky I could find related to power steering. For a variety of reasons I was uncomfortable modifying the front cross member and motor mount as many people seem to do. It may be fine but not my cup of tea. I sourced a rack and double U-joint from a Subaru Legacy and started playing around with it. My solution seems to work. The pictures should explain everything. The shaft support is made from a piece of aluminum buss bar that was collecting dust. The bearing is a Chevrolet pilot bushing. I still need to sort out hoses and pin the Datsun shaft to the U-joint, but the hard part seems to be under control Very ingenious way of fitting the Subaru Power Steering Rack! Never thought about this method. Have the rack and have not used it as yet. Now there is a clearance issue from the engine damper to the front cross member. Need to resolve that if using the Sabaru Rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Never thought it would be so tough to get the shell clean of glass from the media blast. Spent two days blowing, vacuuming, rotating, sanding and wiping. Finally ready we rolled her into the booth and coated her with etch prime. While we were at it we quickie painted the right rear quarter, just enough so my wife can see the color. Now that rust is not an issue I'll start the bodywork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Sometimes I wonder why it takes me so long to do a car and then I spend two days making one hood latch. The good news is there is only one to go! Just roughed out for today, need to disassemble and paint etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jboogsthethug Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 this is looking great really quickly! props to the build, always interesting to see which hurdles other people tackle first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Do you think I'll fool anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Love it. I think that's a VK45DE? Seriously, as I study that photo, there is SO much to like. Shroud, camber plates, A/C, hood release mechanisms. Incredible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Never did like speakers in doors, hopefully this will be solid enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Working my way to the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 Well I see it's been a year since my last post. There should be a thread for slowest build. Seemed like a good time for an update. Paint is done except for the hood and the glass is in. Might even drive it soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 Been gone a long time. Retired and moved. But at last this project is "done" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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