Jboogsthethug

Yeah I think with the lizard skin stuff and you putting the interior back together it wouldn't be worth it to have them do the inside. That car is going to look great!

dang getting close! They are zooming along! That stuff took me forever to do! Is it tacky of me to ask how much you're paying? I'd like to get a re spray one day after I finish all the crap on mine (Like I should've done in the first place ha).

Those 3d Canards are sweet! What 3D scanner do you guys use to do all the scans?

Thank you, I was coming up short! This is great info! What a compilation of pictures! This was especially helpful to visualize how people tie in the front strut towers to the rocker panels inside the front fender panels! I think most everything else I've done with my cage, it's pretty extensive. This has all been helpful to help me visualize it all, thanks again to you both!

Dang Mark, that is so crazy looking. Also, side question that I've been trying to figure out: are you the actor Mark Rolston, or do you just share a name with eachother?

Interesting info about the rocker panels being so important, didn't realize that! I'll look into this thread and post a link if I find what I think you're referencing. I'll look into the book! Thanks for sharing some insights and photos. I'd like to keep the passenger side available so who knows. Thanks for everyone's thoughts!

So you can see how my bars triangulate through the cowl area and I've got a pretty good sized hole here. Currenlty not worried about structure but I figured if I could cut a little bit more weight and have more room for electronics then rock on. I did realize in looking at this that I'd need to keep the driver's side mostly intact or fabricate up a mounting solution for the steering wheel/pedals, so If I did cut it it would be everything else until I felt like coming up with all those needs ha.

Thanks for sharing NewZed. I'm a little confused at what the cutouts are on this diagram. Are those indicating structural reifnorcements? Yeah my bad for not giving more background when asking the question, you're all good! I think mostly it is addresses, the triangulated bars will certainly stop the firewall from bowing out under pressure, but I'm thinking I may need to add a leg directly in the center of where the windshield mounts to stop it from bowing downwards without the inner cowl in place. I specifically want to remove just the inside where rain water is directed to the sides of the car. but leaving the top of the cowl area in place. Perhaps I'll post a picture of my cowl currently to give a better idea and make sure I'm on the same page as you. one moment

you can see at 2:23 how he's got it all tucked right into the cowl, it just seems like prime real estate for my electrical ha.

So my build is a pure track build for sure at this point. I actually already had my roll cage builder cut out part of the cowl to have some bars triangulated from the dash bar to the center of the firewall. It doesn't look great as it sits so i figured either fix it or cut it all out. Another point to him is his chassis is completely rebuilt, his panels are all carbon fiber, and he's (I'm sure) running a lexan windshield. The weight in the center of the cowl has got to be pretty much nothing for him. I do currently have a full cage throughout my chassis, but I haven't yet upgraded my frame rails, which I'd like to do. I'd want to tie the cage into them and that would complete my structural upgrades, but I'm mostly worried about the windshield being too heavy and causing some sort of sag or wiggling around. As far as wiring, I mostly just want space for different electrical buses/accessories/etc without it creeping into either side's leg room. I figure this would make that even simpler.

Any other experiences with doing this for your car?

So I'm looking into wiring my Z and watched this video of Shawn Basset's 240z's wiring: I realized Shawn has completely cut out his cowl! He made the cowl cover in a way that doesn't allow water through, of course. I was thinking of doing the same thing to give me more room for accessibility, etc. Is that structural at all? Will I need to add some bracing?

For anyone interested, I ended up just getting my tube hole as close as I could to that gap width, the mesh was almost touching but it seemed safer to me.

I need to do some tuning research. I figure that will be the next big learning project after I get it running! Do you have jus the stock diff in it? Or have you upgraded? I hear throwing an LSD is a huge difference maker.