So after transplanting the new heart into the Z, I realized I didn't plan on using the stock hood/latch and would want to have something lighter eventually, as well as it kept bumping the RB during the install. I cut that crap right out of there! As more times goes on, I regret painting my car earlier as I keep scratching it and giving myself more spots that are unpainted ha. Lesson learned, too late now! I'll fix it eventually after I get to a place of contentment.
Also, I never mentioned this but I picked up these eagle alloy wheels for like $400 or something? I'll need new tires eventually but it made my Z look sick! Look are important
I also bought these off a member on HybridZ who was selling all their parts stash. I figured they'd come in handy when I was ready to upgrade suspension!
I also got around to cleaning up my garage a bit. Picked up a mini stack tool chest for like $60, great deal! That is the last part of my house remodel and I have big plans, but for now this will do!
One thing I realized is my brake MC decided to stop working while it sat. I took it apart to try and clean it out but I couldn't get it working again. So then I bought a kit to rebuild it, but it turned out I had the wrong MC for the job. Only some of the MCs are rebuildable, I had the wrong one ha.
So, sent the kit back and looked at my other options! To buy a new stock MC it was just as expensive as buying 3 used aftermarket cylinders from Tilton/Wilwood. I always wanted to eventually do a dual brake MC setup, so I figured what better time than now?? I picked all three up for like $140 on ebay. They came in this evidence bag, which I thought was pretty funny ha. I decided on a 1" for the front and 3/4" on the rear. I may regret the size but if I do I'll pick up a 1/2" and swap them around. There was also a 1" clutch MC that I figured I'd swap in sometime later, all remote reservoirs! My plan is to mount those inside the cowl to save space!
Anyway, I got to work! I read up a bunch and this thread helped a ton with info, especially when it comes to figuring out the pedal ratio:
The only problem is the freaking pictures from photobucket no longer appear. Screw you PB, ruining all my favorite threads! So here are my pictures of the process, pretty similr to what they talked about! I'll also try to be detailed to help give some info to anyone looking this up in the future. I bought the Tilton 600 series balance bar assembly https://tiltonracing.com/product/600-series-balance-bar-assembly/
First things first, I needed to measure and come up with the correct stroke and figure out how much room I had to play with to drill the bore hole. By my professional chalk on cement measurements show, my brake pedal was 5.25" from the pivot point. I have 5.75" of pedal travel at the outer diameter before hitting the firewall. My original MC Plunger point gave me 3.25" of stroke. In order to get the correct leverage I needed to move the plunger attach point up about .5". That would make it easier to compress without the brake booster. (The measurements were pretty much on point to the thread above.)
My initial drill point, I think I moved it very slightly.
Once I got it dialed in, I used that point with my hole bore and got to drilling!
I had a slight gap due to the slightly bigger bore diameter (I couldn't find the exact size). No worries, close enough!
I then got to welding! I measured the center point and basically just did my best to hold it exactly parallel. After tacking, I double checked center and made sure it was exactly perpendicular to the pedal, then welded it in!
I have little bursts of good welds ha, I wish I was better at welding. Slowly getting better but plenty of room to grow!
Well son of a gun, I realized I warped the bore ever so slightly! I Could no longer get the bearing to fit through. Calling around to machine shops provided me with some expensive options that I could not afford. Hundreds of dollars for this little hole ha. So I thought about it, took my drill, fit the biggest bit I could into the hole and put sticky, 2000 grit sandpaper on it and just drilled it. As it would loosen up, I'd add another strip of sandpaper. I did this for about 10-15 minutes and voila! Perfect once again! I was pleasantly surprised at this one ha.
Slid easily through now, no catching at all!
At the same time, I worked on the framing a bit. First, I just used the hole and marked around it to make a template. Cut it out with an angle grinder and then welded it in!
I also added some bracing to the side to help with flexing, these welds I was pretty happy about!
All smoothed out!
I then made marks on each end of the pedal box so then I could use that to create a center point for the holes I then needed to drill for the MC mounts. I transcribed from that point.
Then I created a center point of tape and made marks with the brake pedal completely open and completely compressed to find the centerline for where the plunger needed to be.
Then, after making those lines, I measured the 1.25" both ways for the center points and test fit it with the balance bar.
Lines up well!
Pilot holes drilled.
Then the bigger holes and other holes were drilled out.
Then I put the bolts through, welded on the back end so they won't turn and spray painted with some primer and black gloss!
Installing into the brake assembly.
I also made a plate on the other side to basically sandwich the firewall and give more strength. I painted that as well. Here they are installed!! I also bent the brake lines later on whcih you can see here, I'll create a post to document that later! Until next time!