rayaapp2 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 -The Topic is the stock blow off valve for an RB25det. -The questions: What is the stock blow off valve set to? Is the stock BOV good for anything more than stock boost? If it can handle more boost, how much? At what point does the general consensus say replace it? What is a legitimate replacement for the stock valve? (no bling bling logic please) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 Nothing? Really? I received one answer via PM. The user is using a stock valve crushed down "for now". Anyone want to stick their neck out with what they are using? PS MODERATORS, I really hate this deal with the EDIT function being disabled after a few days... I could go in and edit this thread/title and add a question about my air filter situation instead of adding it to the bottom of this post with out advertising it or making a new thread about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Holds roughly 15 psi in stock form before they start to crack open, its designed to leak at idle so you have to recirculate it to run properly. Crushed "slightly" it should hold around 20 psi and not cause any surge. Its a decent recirc valve actually, probably a better option then a open greddy type-s or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Octane Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 (edited) It should be the same type of valve that the 1st generation DSM cars came with. If that's the case I used to run 18psi through an EvoIII Big 16g on an un-crushed valve with no issues on one of my Talon's. With a proper crush mod I would wager it's probably good to about 25psi (depending on your turbo). Edited May 28, 2010 by Octane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 It should be the same type of valve that the 1st generation DSM cars came with. If that's the case I used to run 18psi through an EvoIII Big 16g on an un-crushed valve with no issues on one of my Talon's. With a proper crush mod I would wager it's probably good to about 25psi (depending on your turbo). I really doubt that its the same valve as the DSM cars. The DSM cars ran more boost in stock form that the RB25 does. I would think the springs inside would be different to be application specific. I know the things are engineered to be open at idle. At idle Im making about 15 inches of vacuum and the BOV is cracked open. I actually had a Type S Greddy. I ended up selling it. I could not make it fit my needs. I figured there would be a better one available out there with all these new valves available. The stock valve works for me. Ive been running ~10 psi(.70 BAR setting) with no obvious issues. I put it up to 1 BAR and started to see issues so I backed it down to be safe until I can determine if it was timing or boost bleed off(or both). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Possible your ignition was cutting out at higher boost and not the valve leaking, I would look into that. Also our valve is the same as the 1G DSM valve, they work nicely from 5-15 psi for what its worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 NGK Copper Core .030" gap plugs with aftermarket Super Spark Performance RB Coil Packs from Raw Brokerage. Im running 2 steps colder than stock. I tried to cover my bases, but its possible. If I had setup the data logging I might have been able to figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 (edited) what source are you using to give B+ to the thick white wire which powers your coilpacks? Reason I ask is because I was originally powering my coils through the Z harness and it wasn't supplying enough power so it would miss over 12 psi. I ended up running a relay to power the coils and it never missed again. , I usually run a .026 gap but .03 should be fine Edited June 11, 2010 by RS Speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 what source are you using to give B+ to the thick white wire which powers your coilpacks? Reason I ask is because I was originally powering my coils through the Z harness and it wasn't supplying enough power so it would miss over 12 psi. I ended up running a relay to power the coils and it never missed again. , I usually run a .026 gap but .03 should be fine I dont remember a thick white wire. I have a series 2 setup so there isnt an extra relay for the ignition and its all low voltage out to the coils with an amplifier built into each coil. The Series 1 setups have a thick white wire like you are describing. All my power is coming through the Z harness currently. But after recent events I may be rewiring the whole setup for a third time. I have spoken with APEXi and Adrenaline Motorsports Inc about what happened to my Power FC. Adrenaline Motorsports does these types of swaps and they are very familiar with the Power FC (Their Tech department came recommended by APEXi's tech department for whatever that is worth). Adrenaline Motorsports was saying something to the effect of wires that were too small for both fuel pump and the power supplies and when they swap these in other vehicles that they go up in wire size. Im not an electrical expert so I cannot argue the point one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 I basically ended up running relays with direct power from the battery for the major components like ecu, fuel pump, ignition and fans. Powering the ecu through the harness was causing odd issues like hearing the rpm change with the turn signals being activated so I just rewired some things through my switch panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 My RPMs dont change when I turn on the turn signals, but I have noticed the fuel pump changes pitch with the lights and other accessories. When I re-wire this thing again I think I will try your solution. Ill relay all the ECU power sources and run them through a seperate fuse block that is tied to the battery. Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Speed Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 on a side note, any reason why you are only pulling 15 at idle... should be 18-21 on average. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 could be at 22... I dropped the car off at our new house last weekend so I cant really go out and check it(200 miles away). Going off memory and mine isnt always that great. I have seen it at 22 inches before... I have seen it at 15 inches before as well, just kinda fuzzy as I was only really paying attention to max boost as that was my concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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